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Old 12-19-2012, 02:51 AM   #1
2pistonbrew
 
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Hi guys I did my first batch of homebrew last weekend . I have 2 quick questions for you first is what color should Pale Ale actually be ? Im not a serious beer drinker (But I am willing to learn) and second if my beginning SG was 1040 then why after no more bubbles in airlock would my current SG be down to 1020 and is it correctable ? sorry for asking questions that were in all likely hood already answered..

Ken

 
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Old 12-19-2012, 03:05 AM   #2
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Color an depend on alot of things. If you're extract brewing, most pales come out darker than comercial pales just from the boil itself. Reactions in the boil can darken the wort (Mailiard Reaction). Plus some "light" LME is pretty dark in color to begin with.

How long has it been in the fermenter? No more bubbles doesn't mean fermentation is done.

Gary
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Old 12-19-2012, 03:22 AM   #3
2pistonbrew
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GASoline71 View Post
Color an depend on alot of things. If you're extract brewing, most pales come out darker than comercial pales just from the boil itself. Reactions in the boil can darken the wort (Mailiard Reaction). Plus some "light" LME is pretty dark in color to begin with.

How long has it been in the fermenter? No more bubbles doesn't mean fermentation is done.

Gary
It has been in the fermenter since saturday am I understand the instructions that came with the kit are not very good from reading other posts on here Im just trying to get an idea of when to start a secondary fermentation .

 
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Old 12-19-2012, 03:41 AM   #4
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Saturday as 4 days ago Saturday? I'm on my first batch also but I would say no, wait at least 10 days. I'm at 9 days and my air lock is down to 1:35 between bubbles but I am going to go for 2 weeks as long as my hydrometer readings are the same.

Just one other tip that I've read, the secondary fermentation you refer too is just a secondary or a conditioner. Could be wrong, but I'm learning like you.

Heres a good thread to start with:http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/when...-if-all-43014/

 
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Old 12-19-2012, 03:47 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2pistonbrew View Post
Hi guys I did my first batch of homebrew last weekend . I have 2 quick questions for you first is what color should Pale Ale actually be ? Im not a serious beer drinker (But I am willing to learn) and second if my beginning SG was 1040 then why after no more bubbles in airlock would my current SG be down to 1020 and is it correctable ? sorry for asking questions that were in all likely hood already answered..

Ken
Airlock activity only means CO2 is escaping. SG tellls when the yeast is done working. Don't worry about it till 3 weeks have passed then bottle/keg it. and why would you secondary a pale ale? If you are not adding anything other than dry hopping there is no need to secondary unless you need the fermenting bucket. If that's the case go buy another and leave it in the primary 3 weeks then 3 weeks in bottles.
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Bottled in the refer: Malahini Pale Ale
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Old 12-19-2012, 03:57 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2pistonbrew View Post
Hi guys I did my first batch of homebrew last weekend . I have 2 quick questions for you first is what color should Pale Ale actually be ? Im not a serious beer drinker (But I am willing to learn) and second if my beginning SG was 1040 then why after no more bubbles in airlock would my current SG be down to 1020 and is it correctable ? sorry for asking questions that were in all likely hood already answered..

Ken
First off, welcome to the hobby. Second, as others have said the color will be different with extract. The main reason for my post is something that I have not seen touched on yet. The SG is "Starting Gravity" which basically means the amount of sugar available for the yeast to eat. When you said "My current SG be down to 1020 and is it correctable?" When the yeast eat the sugar there is less sugar in the beer. Since the yeast eat the sugar and convert that into CO2 and alcohol. So your SG (should be current gravity reading) is 1.020. You need to check your hydrometer readings over a three day period, when there has not been any hydrometer change then you can bottle/transfer to secondary, whichever you plan on doing. I would not transfer to secondary unless you are dry hopping. So continue to check your hydrometer readings. When it gets to its lowest number, that will be your FINAL gravity. You can use the FINAL gravity in a formula to determine an approximate alcohol percentage. Hope this helps. Enjoy the hobby, it becomes addictive. Also read all you can on this forum and buy some books. Cheers

 
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Old 12-19-2012, 04:26 AM   #7
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Thank you all very much I will take your advice, be patient and let it do its thing. The directions that came with the kid said to ferment 48 to 72 hours till the airlock has no more bubbles then transfer to the bottling bucket and bottle. Then store in cool dark place for 3 to 4 weeks. Someone else told me to do the secondary ferment in the Carboy ( I don't own one yet) then bottle in 3 or4 weeks. If you guys think its ok to just let it stay in the fermentation bucket that just means less chance for me to ruin the brew .

 
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Old 12-19-2012, 04:32 AM   #8
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Another thing to note about color. In a carboy or bucket you are looking through a lot of liquid and it will look a LOT darker than it will when you only have a glassful.

As already said you need to go at least 7-10 days then take gravity readings. And that there is really no reason that you have to use a secondary at all. I ferment most of my beers for 3 weeks then check the gravity and bottle.

 
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Old 12-19-2012, 08:02 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2pistonbrew View Post
Thank you all very much I will take your advice, be patient and let it do its thing. The directions that came with the kid said to ferment 48 to 72 hours till the airlock has no more bubbles then transfer to the bottling bucket and bottle. Then store in cool dark place for 3 to 4 weeks. Someone else told me to do the secondary ferment in the Carboy ( I don't own one yet) then bottle in 3 or4 weeks. If you guys think its ok to just let it stay in the fermentation bucket that just means less chance for me to ruin the brew .
Don't know what kind of kit you have, but......WRONG in general. Ferment for about 3 weeks in low to mid 60's for most ales. Then bottle and store at 70 for another 3 weeks. Then chill to drinking temp for at least 2 days. They just want you to buy another kit fast. WRONG.
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Kaiser Ridge Brewing
-------------------------
Bottled in the refer: Malahini Pale Ale
Bottled in the refe: Black IPA
Bottled in the refe: Old Glory Stout
Bottled in the refe: American Imperial Stout
Bottled in the refer: Dunkelweizen
Bottled in the refer Oktoberfest

.

 
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Old 12-19-2012, 02:50 PM   #10
rayfound
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brewmedic43 View Post

First off, welcome to the hobby. Second, as others have said the color will be different with extract. The main reason for my post is something that I have not seen touched on yet. The SG is "Starting Gravity" which basically means the amount of sugar available for the yeast to eat. When you said "My current SG be down to 1020 and is it correctable?" When the yeast eat the sugar there is less sugar in the beer. Since the yeast eat the sugar and convert that into CO2 and alcohol. So your SG (should be current gravity reading) is 1.020. You need to check your hydrometer readings over a three day period, when there has not been any hydrometer change then you can bottle/transfer to secondary, whichever you plan on doing. I would not transfer to secondary unless you are dry hopping. So continue to check your hydrometer readings. When it gets to its lowest number, that will be your FINAL gravity. You can use the FINAL gravity in a formula to determine an approximate alcohol percentage. Hope this helps. Enjoy the hobby, it becomes addictive. Also read all you can on this forum and buy some books. Cheers


I think that is not quite right.... SG = specific gravity, the generic term whenever it is taken, OG = original [specific] gravity , and FG= final [specific] gravity.
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