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Old 01-03-2013, 02:40 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jammin View Post

I worded that poorly, my apologies.

You are correct - the thumb screws go on AFTER the hopper is mounted.
No worries. I just thought for a second that the extra depth of the hopper sheet metal was the reason my thumbscrews do not touch the rollers. But I am back to square one I guess.



 
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Old 01-03-2013, 04:22 AM   #22
jgaepi
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My take has been good quality materials but bad design and pathetic instructions. My 3 year old can give better directions.


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Old 01-03-2013, 02:45 PM   #23
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When I first setup my MM-3, I used different settings and marked the end plate with a Sharpe so I wouldn't have to use the gauges again. I started at .030 and went up to .045. Fred was easy to deal with and responsive, but I bought mine when the company was first formed. I found that mounting square to the base was imperative. They didn't have a hopper for sale when I bought mine and I quickly found my feed hole was too wide. It seams like anytime you purchase a product these days the instructions are lame. I do think it's the best mill out there. I bought a mega old skill 1/2" hole shooter for mine. Works great now! It did take some tinkering to get it right though. I just took mine apart and disassembled it. I was shocked to see how much grain dust had made its way into the bushings.
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Old 01-04-2013, 03:08 AM   #24
Jeffinn
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Fred was very responsive to my e-mail question. I purchased my mill just before Christmas and it came with the adjustment screws loose. I bought a set of feeler gauges for $5 and set the gap where I wanted it. Setting the gap seems like a maintenance item, everyone wants their gap set to their specification and knowing how to do that is a plus. I didn't have any problems with their instructions but I was a mechanic for 20 years so I'm somewhat mechanically inclined. I may buy some screw with larger knobs on them as suggested by someone previously or I might go with the hex head bolts to get a little extra grip on the adjuster screws. It's a great mill for a great price and I'm really happy with the product and the service!

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Old 01-04-2013, 02:01 PM   #25
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I found that replacing most of the screws with thumbscrews can really save a brew day (ours are hectic - 4 or 5 brews/day). Ours jams occasionally no matter what and we have to true it up. Having the ability to do this without tools has been key for us.

 
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Old 01-07-2013, 03:34 PM   #26
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We had a big brew day this past weekend and the replacement screws i put in saved the day. It got jammed so bad we had to take apart the mill, being able to do this w/o tools was key.

 
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Old 01-07-2013, 05:24 PM   #27
dfess1
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Mar 2011
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I replaced the top hex screws with thumb screws, and the side thumb screws (holding the roller in place) with set screws. This has worked pretty well.

 
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Old 01-12-2015, 02:07 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgaepi View Post
This is his response to me about asking for the replacement screws.

The threads are 1/4-20. The MM-2 uses thumbscrews that are 3/4" long. You should be able to easily find these in a hardware store, or Home Depot/Lowes no problem. The guys that I've sent these to are in Europe and SAE fasteners are just not available there.
Reviving an old thread but glad I found this info...I managed to break off the tab on one of the thumb screws spending an inordinate amount of time trying to adjust my mill after mounting in for motorizing. I'm pretty sure I can get the screw out with some locking pliers, but having hex heads for these is going to be much easier.

 
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Old 01-12-2015, 02:58 PM   #29
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I converted to MM's new style adjusting knobs which do away with the thumb screws and I've had no problem with the gap slipping. It is well worth the conversion.
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Old 01-12-2015, 07:09 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mabrungard View Post
I converted to MM's new style adjusting knobs which do away with the thumb screws and I've had no problem with the gap slipping. It is well worth the conversion.
Those are only good for the 2" rollers though, correct?



 
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