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Old 12-11-2012, 04:29 AM   #1
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Default SSR then Contactor or Contactor then SSR?

Should you wire an SSR first in series followed by a contactor or a contactor first followed by an SSR? -WHY?

If you wire an "on" indicator light in between your SSR and your element and you're using PWM will the light visibly flicker?


Trying to understand a small part of these wiring diagrams at a time...



Thanks!
Adam


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Old 12-11-2012, 04:33 AM   #2
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I usually wire the contractor before the SSR. But have seen it both ways. There isn't anything in the NFPA book that I have found. I look at the contractor as a e-Stop disconnect.

As for the light. You could always wire it in series with your SSR coil.


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Old 12-11-2012, 05:20 AM   #3
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As for the light. You could always wire it in series with your SSR coil.

Good call! -So obvious; embarrassed I didn't think of that.


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Old 12-11-2012, 05:31 AM   #4
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You would want to wire the indicator light in parallel.
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Old 12-11-2012, 06:45 AM   #5
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SSR then contactor then heating element (allows you to ensure the element is off with the switch that opens the contactor). For a 240V element, wire a 240V light in parallel with the element (from the contactor load).
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Old 12-11-2012, 11:06 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meadmazer
You would want to wire the indicator light in parallel.
Series or parallel is fine.
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Old 12-11-2012, 12:48 PM   #7
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So figured I would investigate a little more now that I am at work and could look over my NEC 2011 book. There really isn't anything I can find thats a clear cut answer to this. I am going to call my rep at Tempco to day and ask the question. As I said in my earlier post. I have seen both ways, I have a system sitting here with SSR, Contactor, OverLoad. I have one here thats Contactor then SSR.
The light question is really a dozen ways to skin a cat.

wired to ssr coil:
Series - Light bulb blown, SSR coil does not get power. pros and cons? yes
Parallel - Light blown, SSR still fire but with no visual indication.

After looking at a few of my electrical drawings; I usually do the lamps in parallel as I will know if the heater isnt working due to an alarm that will be annoying me!

wired to element:
parallel - higher voltage lamp.

where do you even buy a 240v lamp?

here is a 120v LED http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/...D/ECX2052-127L

This is just my 2 cents. Everyone has there opinion and most likely have good reasons for their opinion.
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Old 12-11-2012, 06:47 PM   #8
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SSR then contactor then heating element (allows you to ensure the element is off with the switch that opens the contactor). For a 240V element, wire a 240V light in parallel with the element (from the contactor load).
I have the feeling that this is a dumb question but I'm not quite sure why: in the SSR -> Contactor -> heating element configuration: in this configuration is the SSR consuming power even though the switch to the contactor is closed?


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Old 12-11-2012, 06:56 PM   #9
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I wired mine Contactor -> SSR -> Element. My contactor breaks both legs of the 240 VAC line to the element and the SSR breaks just one leg. You don't need a 240 VAC light if you have a 4-pole GFCI by bringing the one leg to the neutral line (120 VAC potential). You do have to look up the proper way to wire the indicator lights though, mine are still incorrect but I haven't gotten around to correcting them. I intended to have one light as the "On" light to indicate power is being supplied to the SSR and then the other to indicate when the SSR leg was "On" to show when the element was being fired. The SSR is a current regulating device and will ALWAYS should voltage across the controlled lets. The indicator light will illuminate even though the element is not being fired. There is a way to correct this so the light works with the element but I haven't gotten around to it yet.
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Old 12-11-2012, 09:24 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biertourist View Post
I have the feeling that this is a dumb question but I'm not quite sure why: in the SSR -> Contactor -> heating element configuration: in this configuration is the SSR consuming power even though the switch to the contactor is closed?


Adam
When the contactor is open (off - I think that is what you mean), the element will not draw any power, so the SSR is not really consuming any power. Similarly, you have power running up to your wall outlets, but unless you plug something in to draw power the outlet is not consuming any power.

You can put the contactor before the SSR, but it does not really matter. In both cases, both hot legs run through the contactor, only one runs through the SSR, and the SSR is potentially being switched by the PID even when the contactor is open (off).


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