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Old 12-11-2012, 03:12 AM   #1
btbonser
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Default Can someone please review the wiring for my electric HERMS build?

So here is what I am planning on doing. I currently have a propane HERMS setup that I slowly want to start converting to all electric. I currently do not have 220 in my "Beer Room" but I will be adding this in the future. To start with I just want to add a 110v, 1500W-2000W heating element to my HLT (I do have 20AMP breakers) to control the temperature. I will use the propane to get everything up to temp and the electric portion to maintain it. I want to start slow to gain confidence on the wiring, SSR's, PID's, switches etc. plus doing it little by little easier on the wallet and SHMBO is less likely to notice the missing funds.

I will update with pics and new parts as I go.

Here are the parts I purchased from Auber Instruments so far.

1 - SYL-2352 1/16 DIN PID Temperature Controller (SSR control output)
1 - 40A SSR
1 - Heat Sink for Solid State Relay, 40A
1 - Liquid tight RTD sensor, 2.5 inch, 1/2 NPT Thread with Deluxe Cable
1 - Yellow - LED Indicator, 22 mm, 120V
2 - Green - LED Indicator, 22 mm, 120V
1 - Blue - LED Indicator, 22 mm, 120V
3 - Selector Switch, 2-Position Maintained 1NO 1NC, 22mm
1 - Selector Switch, 3-Position Maintained 2 NO, 22mm
2 - Contactor, 2 pole, 30A, 120V Coil
1 - Carlon12x12x6 in. Junction Box (dimensions on website are wrong) - Home Depot

Still need to purchase a Camco 2000W 120V Screw in Water Heater Element - Ultra Low Watt Density

Here is a modified wiring diagram that I plan on using. If someone could review it for me that would be awesome! Thank you PJ for the original.


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Old 12-14-2012, 02:25 AM   #2
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Received most of the parts today, yea I had to get a beer in the picture.
There is an extra switch and light for phase two, adding the MT and BK to the control panel.


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Old 12-14-2012, 04:26 AM   #3
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Looks like the "master" switch only controls a light and the "element" switch actually controls pid power.
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Old 12-14-2012, 07:13 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jCOSbrew View Post
Looks like the "master" switch only controls a light and the "element" switch actually controls pid power.
Diagram has been modified, I hope this one is correct.
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Old 12-14-2012, 07:21 PM   #5
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The switches you have are not only rated for 10 amps. To use it for a master on you need to have it control a contactor that is rated for 20amps or more.

edit I would also move the element control and lamp to after the SSR and have that control a contactor as well.
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Old 12-14-2012, 09:01 PM   #6
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I love how everyone manages to squeeze a beer into the picture of their electrical parts. It's a nice touch.

More seriously though I like what you have going and I'm looking to do something vaguely similar. Just a couple questions to you:

1: Have you decided on an element? I'm still browsing around.
2: What are your plans for the accessory outlet? Just curious.
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Old 12-16-2012, 02:09 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inhousebrew View Post
I love how everyone manages to squeeze a beer into the picture of their electrical parts. It's a nice touch.

More seriously though I like what you have going and I'm looking to do something vaguely similar. Just a couple questions to you:

1: Have you decided on an element? I'm still browsing around.
2: What are your plans for the accessory outlet? Just curious.

I want to go with a 2000W element but haven't purchased one yet. As for the accessory, it will most likely be for a second pump.
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Old 12-16-2012, 02:18 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OMJ View Post
The switches you have are not only rated for 10 amps. To use it for a master on you need to have it control a contactor that is rated for 20amps or more.

edit I would also move the element control and lamp to after the SSR and have that control a contactor as well.
I want to thank everyone for all of the valuable advice and recommendations but I fear I am reaching the end of my electrical knowledge. I am a little electronically challenged.

OMJ - do you know how I would wire in the contactor and which one I should get? Can I use one that will work with 220 and 110?

Moving the element control and lamp to after the SSR makes total sense otherwise the PID would not display the temp unless the element was on... Good call!

As for adding a contactor after the SSR is that necessary or just recommended? I believe I have seen some diagrams that are similar to mine that do not have them.
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Old 12-16-2012, 06:51 PM   #9
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Diagram updated and parts list updated. I added a fuse before the PID and the two Contactors that were recommended. Hopefully everything is correct now, third times a charm!

Thank you everyone for the advice.
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Old 12-16-2012, 09:34 PM   #10
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