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Old 12-08-2012, 04:50 PM   #11
LAbrewer
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Cool, I think I'll give the bucket method a go. Does conditioning the night before work better than right before crushing?

 
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Old 12-09-2012, 12:56 AM   #12
jbaysurfer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAbrewer View Post
Cool, I think I'll give the bucket method a go. Does conditioning the night before work better than right before crushing?
Some say yes, but I find conditioning just a couple minutes before to be just as effective, I guess ideally you can do it the night before, but the benefits are still substantial just doing it right into the hopper.
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Old 12-09-2012, 02:36 AM   #13
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I condition just before the crush. I let it sit for 10-15 mins before crushing, works great.
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Old 12-09-2012, 04:43 AM   #14
November
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I condition and crush the night before. That just takes ones step out of my brew day.

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Old 12-09-2012, 05:27 AM   #15
Randall
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I use a black mortar mixing bin from depot and mix with my hands. I generally use about 4 to 6 oz of water with a spray bottle. The bucket method blows

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Old 12-09-2012, 04:41 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randall View Post
I use a black mortar mixing bin from depot and mix with my hands. I generally use about 4 to 6 oz of water with a spray bottle. The bucket method blows
This works great! I do it with half the grain bill (total grain bill is about 25lbs) then mill it, bucket it, set it aside and do it again. Wide surface area and I just spray it with a spray bottle while mixing it with my hand. I was thinking about getting a small rake but meh, I have enough **** in the garage to find on brew day.

 
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Old 12-10-2012, 06:36 PM   #17
Clonefan94
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I just did my first conditioning this past weekend.

I used a large foil pan I picked up at a restaurant supply store. Not sure on the size, but it has a bigger footprint than my 46 Quart Cooler mash tun. It has nice high sides and can hold about 5 pounds of grain and is about an inch deep or so, I just mist, mix with my hand, then pour that into my grain bucket. The foil pan seems to be the perfect comprimise for me, between getting enough done at one time and still being able to easily lift and pour into another vessel.

I have to say though, this was the best thing I have ever done to improve my brew day. I had almost perfectly intact husks and it probably cut my running time in half. I actually started to get freaked out that I didn't used too much water, then after that wasn't the case, I was freaking that I was probably low on my gravity. The only thing off, was that my gravity ended up a tad high.

I honestly can't recommend conditioning grain enough.

 
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:15 PM   #18
gizmodog51
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new to all-grain and am a BIAB brewer.

sounds like this conditioning process is mostly for spray sparging brewers?

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Old 12-10-2012, 09:45 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gizmodog51 View Post
new to all-grain and am a BIAB brewer.

sounds like this conditioning process is mostly for spray sparging brewers?

GD51
Batch and continuous, yes. I've never dine biab but i cant imagine it would hold much value for that process.

 
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Old 12-11-2012, 01:36 PM   #20
gizmodog51
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there was mention of this process helping to keep the husk in tact during the milling process. what i mean is, not totally ripping it up. if i'm not wrong, BIAB brewing requirs a fine mill on the grain end product is milled where the husk & kernal is all crushed.
i'm thinking the condition process won't matter for BIAB brewers. someone let me know if i'm incorrect...
thanx
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