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Old 12-06-2012, 11:00 PM   #1
winestill
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Mar 2011
Reykjavik, Iceland
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Hi guys.

Do you think I can sanitize my CFC by running boiling wort through it for 10 minutes. I have a pump which can handle up to 120c and a silicone hose.
I would connect my hose to the pump and the cfc and another hose from the cfc to the boiling kettle.

Is this method maby dangerous?

 
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Old 12-07-2012, 03:45 AM   #2
tektonjp
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Nov 2010
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That is the standard way to sanitize. Just make sure your hoses are well clamped.
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Old 12-07-2012, 03:55 AM   #3
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At over 200F you only need a few seconds (max) contact time to sanitize. Most do it for longer than that. Not sure, exactly, why they feel the need, but the science behind what a liquid at that temperature will do is pretty well documented. We're not looking to sterilize here, since that's just not practical for most of us. Also, look at it this way, your dishwasher has a 'sanitize' cycle. The heater in there can only increase the hot water feed temperature by 20F. Where I am, that's locked at 120F. So, it's a 140F temperature for however long (probably many minutes). As you increase the temperature of the liquid, the time to sanitize drops drastically. Pasteurization happens in under a minute at 155F.

Personally, I run boiling wort through my plate chiller starting about 5 minutes from the end of the boil. I have a thermometer reading the temperature of the wort coming out of it. I make it a goal to hit at least 200F for at least 30-60 seconds each batch. Even that, IMO/IME, is going above and beyond. Especially if the chiller was cleaned well (properly) after it's last use.

Of course, you could also fill it with Star San for 5-10 minutes on brew day, drain 5-10 minutes before you're going to use it and still run the hot wort through it. IMO, not much of anything could survive that 1 2 punch.
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Old 12-07-2012, 06:17 AM   #4
beerbeer95648
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Nov 2012
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I am one who runs hot water for longer than needed. For me I just like to make sure everything is up to temperature before shutting it down. Keep in mind that you may have minor issues with cavitation at those temps. My practice is 180 degrees for 30 min (again, longer than needed). But many circulate boiling wort to sanitize. Also, keep in mind if you use wort, you may need to deal with hop material clogging the chiller depending on you method for hop containment.

 
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Old 12-07-2012, 06:21 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beerbeer95648 View Post
I am one who runs hot water for longer than needed. For me I just like to make sure everything is up to temperature before shutting it down. Keep in mind that you may have minor issues with cavitation at those temps. My practice is 180 degrees for 30 min (again, longer than needed).
Cavitation is why you put a ball valve on the outlet side of the pump. You can close it down to the point where you eliminate it. It really works. I had it squeal at me the first time I used the pump without one. Added it as per Walter's recommendation and that issue went away.
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On Tap: Caramel Ale, Mocha Porter II, MO SMaSH IPA
Waiting/Carbonating: 12.5% Wee Honey II, 8.9% Old Ale, English Brown Ale, Lickah ESB, Mocha Porter II
Fermenting
K1:
K2: Epic mead
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:40 AM   #6
winestill
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Mar 2011
Reykjavik, Iceland
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All righty. So it wont blow up because of the steam or heat?
And you would run it for 10 min?

 
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Old 12-07-2012, 12:22 PM   #7
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Just my 2c...
I clean it after and sanitize before usage so I heat few gallons of water in HLT and run it trough HEX and CFC.
When only clean water runs of from HEX/CFC I turn off the pump and put bungs on both end, to prevent copper from oxidizing.
Before usage I drain water and fill CFC (not HEX as it is not needed) with sanitation solution, drain it after 5-10 minutes and is is ready for chilling.
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