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Old 12-05-2012, 08:11 PM   #1
RichE
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Dec 2012
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First post to this forum, hopefully someone doesn' already have a thread running on this topic. I am planning for my first BIAB session. I'm planning a MASH out per many recommendations, but haven't decided yet on how to do so. My first thought is to do what seems to be the standard full volume mash (strike water plus sparge water all in at the beginning) and adding heat at the end to mash out (bag raised on a steamer). Or alternatively, I thought to mash with just the normal strike water volume for 60 minutes and then add the higher temperature sparge water at the end to raise the temperature close to mash out temperature and add heat as needed. My question then is, can I use very hot strike water (190+) using a calculator to determine the actual temperature based on the 152 degree mash temperature and the strike water volume, or does adding very hot water into a mash produce tannins and other bad stuff, even if it is only for a brief period of time while the water is mixed in and the temperature is diluted. The alternative would be to add 170-175 degree strike water and apply heat to bring it the mash out temperature.

I don't think I explained this very eloquently, but I think those who have done the BIAB mash out will understand what I'm getting at.

 
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Old 12-05-2012, 08:25 PM   #2
Seb
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Not sure what your setup is and what you're trying to attempt, but couldn't you simply add all of your water volume at the beginning then simply raise the temperature?

 
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Old 12-05-2012, 08:34 PM   #3
RichE
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Many have advocated that the high water to grist ratio of an "all-in" mash makes the beer dryer and changes the chemistry if not the taste of the wort. Since I haven't even done my first BIAB, I should probably just go with the flow, but I was just wondering what the practical experience on this board would have to say about it.

 
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Old 12-05-2012, 08:49 PM   #4
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In a full volume BIAB, you're immediately heating the mash to a boil and you're not sparging so there's no need for a mashout. Pull your bag, squeeze to appropriate volume, and turn on the flame. Bam- mash profile fixed.
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:54 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daksin View Post
in a full volume biab, you're immediately heating the mash to a boil and you're not sparging so there's no need for a mashout. Pull your bag, squeeze to appropriate volume, and turn on the flame. Bam- mash profile fixed.
+1
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:13 PM   #6
RichE
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OK, spent an hour reading a bunch of other posts on BIAB Mash-out and it seemed to be the majority opinion, doesn't really matter. So let's flip to the other side of this question, full volume mash vs. mashing with only the strike water quantity and adding the sparge water to the pot after 60 minutes. I didn't see this addressed much in the other posts I read, but on other sites, some felt strongly that the "proper" strike water volume should be maintained for the 60 minute mash cycle. The purpose of the sparge would be less about rinsing the grain (as I intend to do it in the mash pot, but to keep the water to grist ratio similar to the traditional full grain practice.

 
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Old 12-06-2012, 12:54 AM   #7
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I do a semi-biab like you describe- mash in at 1.5 qts/lbs and heat my sparge water while I'm mashing. I mash in my 7.5gal turkey fryer (boil kettle) and sparge in another 8 gallon pot I have. Then I combine the two in my boil kettle and light the fires.

Since a batch sparge takes so little time, again, there is no need to mash out.
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Old 12-06-2012, 01:04 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daksin View Post
In a full volume BIAB, you're immediately heating the mash to a boil and you're not sparging so there's no need for a mashout. Pull your bag, squeeze to appropriate volume, and turn on the flame. Bam- mash profile fixed.
+1
Above is how I do it - YMMV.
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Old 12-06-2012, 01:11 AM   #9
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I'm a noob also to BIAB, did my first a week and a half ago. I had read a thread on here about steeping grains in a extract batch that said you should use less water to steep the grains in than your planned boil amount. I believe it said something about the PH being to high with too much water to grains. I guess you could adjust your water for that. Here is a calculator I used on my first BIAB that is easy to use http://www.simplebiabcalculator.com/
It has a mash out option if that is what you want to do.

 
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Old 12-07-2012, 02:38 AM   #10
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I tried full boil BIAB and sparging. The only diff I can see is the extra time it takes to sparge. Eff is no better. But I'm talking about using say 4.5 lbs of grain in a 2.75 gallon amt of water. I brew only 1.75 gallon bataches and I can really squeeze every last drop out of the grain. I only loose about .25 gallons to the grain.
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