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Old 12-05-2012, 05:04 AM   #1
ToV
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Jul 2009
, Vermont
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I've had a dead washing machine in the basement for about a year now. (It dumped between 250 and 300 gallons of water in the basement, but the motor was still good).

My efficiencies have been complete rubbish. I think part of this is just a brewery issue (too much piping ect.) and part of it is the crush at the LHBS. Finally when I brewed a 45 lb beer and had to hand mill it all at the LHBS, while holding the hopper down because one of the bolts had brocked, I decided it was time to look into a mill.

I debated a lot on what mill to get and I finally settled on a monster mill. Then I debated for a long time about 2 roller v 3 roller, 1.5 v 2 inch, and which variety of steel. Luckily the motor out of the washing machine help narrow the field, it is a 0.5 HP motor and the monster mill FAQ suggest a 0.5 for 1.5 inch rollers and a 1.0 HP for 2.0 inch rollers. That also narrowed by choices to standard steel or stainless (I couldn't resist the shiny factor of stainless.)

I managed to find a wiring diagram for the motor. It is 2 speed (1440 and 1725) and "reversible". I did a proof of concept run, rigging the wiring and running the motor in both speeds forwards and backwards. I think ordered the parts to build the rig . . .

The first build of the control unit failed miserably. I built a toggle for the hi/low speed and the fwd/rev direction. Apparently, switching the direction toggle with blow a toggle rated for 240v @ 15A (motor is 120V @ 9.8A) right out of the water. I blame the capacitor. This version of the control uses two standard wall switches. The first is a simple on/off switch, the second is a standard 3-way pull switch rigged to the 1440/1725 speed.

The pulleys have pitch diameters of 1.05 and 9.75 connected by a 4L 41 inch belt.

As with everything in my brewery this is phase 1, I am sure I will come up with flaws and better idea.

If anyone is curious about the wiring I can go into that as well.

P.S. those rollers are SHARP, I didn't realize it until I got in the shower and my fingers pruned up on the cuts.


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Old 12-05-2012, 05:19 AM   #2
step
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Dec 2009
Hood River, Oregon
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Nice... right into the mash tun!!!



 
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Old 12-05-2012, 05:40 AM   #3
ToV
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Jul 2009
, Vermont
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Quote:
Originally Posted by step View Post
Nice... right into the mash tun!!!
I built the plywood base first. It was routered to have a lip I could grab and lift and a second lip to hold it inside the mash tun.

Between deciding to put the pulleys away from fingers and the bolts that go through the plywood prevent it from fitting as intended, but it still fits. I guess it is one thing for the next generation.

 
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Old 12-06-2012, 01:29 AM   #4
atjsparty
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Plus one on the wiring diagram!

 
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Old 12-06-2012, 02:02 AM   #5
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Jul 2009
, Vermont
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atjsparty View Post
Plus one on the wiring diagram!
Here are what I was using. I wish I could give credit, I got it from another site months ago where a fellow used the motor and associated pump to run a carboy cleaner.

This motor is out of a whirlpool washer. I compared the wiring diagram to the one found in my washer (generally found inside the washer control pannel)

Below I will simply type what I know/did (I am an old school pen and paper kind of guy):

Incoming Line - - - - - - Attached to
Green - - - - - - - - - - - Green
White - - - - - - - - - - - Yellow and Grey
Black - - - - - - - - - - - Red (Capacitor) and Blue or Orange
Capped Off - - - - - - - White with Stripe

Notes: the blue and orange control the 1725 and 1440 rates respectively. Swapping Red and Yellow will reverse the direction of rotation.

My wiring goes like this.

Green (ground) connects from incoming to motor and box/switch grounds.

Black connects to the first on/off switch, which feeds the red line and the common line in switch two. Switch 2 is a 3-way pull, with incoming black on the common and blue and orange on the outgoing.

White connects to Grey and Yellow.


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