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Old 12-02-2012, 01:32 PM   #1
awiens
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Sep 2012
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Is it imperative to start with a specific amount of water to make wort? I ask because I have a recipe with conflicting amounts - one says 2 gallons, the other 2 1/2. As long as the hydrometer reading is on at fermentation does it matter? Planning on resolving this soon by getting a nine gallon brew pot. Thanks all! Happy brewing!

 
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Old 12-02-2012, 01:36 PM   #2
johnturner9
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I'm fairly new so no expert.... But from what I've read and learned I don't think it will hurt. The larger the boil volume the less darkening of the wort which will result in a lighter more true to color beer and you also get better hop utilization with larger boils.

But either way you will make beer!

Good luck and happy brewing!

 
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Old 12-02-2012, 06:38 PM   #3
richlong8020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awiens
Is it imperative to start with a specific amount of water to make wort? I ask because I have a recipe with conflicting amounts - one says 2 gallons, the other 2 1/2. As long as the hydrometer reading is on at fermentation does it matter? Planning on resolving this soon by getting a nine gallon brew pot. Thanks all! Happy brewing!
Well my brews were darkening. Upgraded to a 9 gal pot, boil 6 gal, I add 1/2 lb of LME/DME per gal of water, then my hops additions, then the rest of the LME/DME at flame out. Now my coloring is spot on for all my brews.

You can get the 9 gal pot on overstock.com for $55. Oh and make sure you have a burner with enough BTU 55000-60000 Great deal.

Hope that helps ya.

 
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Old 12-02-2012, 09:54 PM   #4
rocketspank
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richlong8020 View Post
... Oh and make sure you have a burner with enough BTU 55000-60000 Great deal.

Hope that helps ya.
A must. I'm still cooking on my electric stove doing the whole 5.5 gallons at once... It takes a good hour to get up to temp. Still scraping together pennies to get me an SP2 Double-jet, 210k BTU burner
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Old 12-02-2012, 10:05 PM   #5
unionrdr
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It's not the partial boi that darkens the beer,it's putting allthe extract in at the beginning. Late extract additions have worked well for me to keep colors lighter. Not to mention,reduce or eliminate mailard reactions tha produce that twang. Even in my partial mash partial boil biab ales it works fine.
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:09 AM   #6
awiens
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I've not heard of splitting the malt extract additions. I always follow the LHBS recipes I get. I'm using 5 lbs of dark DME for my chocolate stout next. Any suggestions?

 
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Old 12-03-2012, 01:56 PM   #7
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Try adding 2lbs of the DME to the partial boil of 3G. Do your hop additions,then add the rest at flame out. Steep covered for at least a few minutes to pasteurize. It happens at about 162F,& the boiled wort is still plenty hot enough to do it.
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Old 12-05-2012, 07:04 PM   #8
awiens
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Thank you. What do you mean by "Steep covered to pasteurize at flame out?" I know what steeping is in regards to specialty grains but that's it. Also, flame out I assume means the time you stop the boil. I can add DME then? It doesn't compromise the wort and make it prone to infection since its out of the boil? Thanks again - I've only been brewing a few months so I still have lots of questions!

 
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Old 12-05-2012, 07:30 PM   #9
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You don't need to boil to stop infections in this regard. Pasteurization kills the nasties you need to worry about at about 162F. The boiling hot liquid at flame out is still plenty hot enough to dissolve DME/LME.
you cofer it to keep nasties out while you let it "steep" to pasteurize for a few minutes. Steeping in this sense is just letting it sit hot to pasteurize.
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