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Old 01-12-2013, 04:35 PM   #51
JohnWilliamson062
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THere is a device for muzzleloaders that uses a CO2 cartridge to eject an un-fired load. It just threads in. Drilling a plastic top, gluing a fitting into it, then attaching the item would not be too difficult and should provide a reasonably consistent pressure from bottle to bottle. I think there is a similar device for kegging.

Of course, you could do the same thing with a normal air compressor and step up the regulator slowly.

The first mug I made was put in a kiln next to some other students final project, an ornate castle about 2'X2'X2'. I made the walls too thick and the pressure of the heated water fractured the ceramic mug and sent pieces through the kiln at high velocity. The castle was ravaged with pieces going straight through it. I highly recommend a video camera or at least eye protection if you really want to test it.



 
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Old 01-12-2013, 05:01 PM   #52
Miller4
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Sorry to hear of your ravaged castle, you definitely have to give thicker pieces a good time to fully dry in order to fire them. And I agree of using some kind of safety shield if I did rig up a way to pressure test them.



 
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Old 01-12-2013, 05:17 PM   #53
Dynachrome
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miller4 View Post
... I suppose this first bottling if they hold carbonation will be the test. I don't imagine them having a problem, however I don't have a lot of experience with brewing and carbonating.
Ceramics are pretty tough. It they survive the kiln and cooling off, they are pretty strong. Even a good potter probably throws thicker than a standard glass bottle.

I wonder, ,,,,get an average yield strength for common ceramics and model it in Solidworks?

Have you considered slip casting and copying one you really like?
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Old 01-12-2013, 05:28 PM   #54
Miller4
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Have you considered slip casting and copying one you really like?
This is my next project, I am working on making the molds for two pieces this weekend. However I will continue to throw them as well. In seven weeks or so I will be doing a wood fire with all my new work. My plan is to make multiple matching bottles with a nice case to go with them, of course with slight variations from the wood firing.

 
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Old 01-12-2013, 05:30 PM   #55
Dynachrome
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This is my next project, I am working on making the molds for two pieces this weekend. However I will continue to throw them as well. In seven weeks or so I will be doing a wood fire with all my new work. My plan is to make multiple matching bottles with a nice case to go with them, of course with slight variations from the wood firing.
Your bottles are really beautiful.

It's been decades since I threw anything.
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:15 PM   #56
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Thank you very much, I enjoy making them and am excited with the possibilities.

 
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Old 01-15-2013, 05:37 AM   #57
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With everyone of your updates the temptation to clear away a decade of dust and search out a clay source grows.

I have never done slip molds. Seems perfect though.

 
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Old 01-16-2013, 04:56 AM   #58
Dynachrome
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I have a wad of clay from college in my basement from about 30 years ago. I wonder if I could find it.
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Old 01-16-2013, 10:34 PM   #59
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Those look awesome. I found a bottle capper at a second hand shop the other day along with caps and some longnecks. To see if the capper worked properly I got some bi-carb soda and vinegar mixed them in the bottle and sealed it up. I the. Submerged the bottle in water to a check for leaks and all was well. Would this work for your ceramics? Is what I did at all an indication that the bottles are sealed properly?

 
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Old 01-17-2013, 02:01 AM   #60
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I'm sure it is a fine check, however trying to regulate to amount of pressure is the problem. You want enough to verify the seal, but not enough to potentially cause shards of glass or ceramics flying.



 
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