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Old 12-10-2012, 01:42 PM   #21
dfess1
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Originally Posted by ZackN View Post
Those look awesome! And were you thinking of something like this for the end?
Pocket

They have a larger selection too, magnetic, zippered, hanging ect.
More

Hope that helps.
Thanks, pretty much what I was looking for!

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Originally Posted by brewskisteve View Post
Wow, those are really great looking, BRAVO!! Thanks for the pictoral, it actually helped me out on my next set of boxes. My last ones came out good, but nowhere close to these as I started with 1x12 pine and also not having the advanced wood shop that ya'll got. I'm doing mine on down time out in my backyard on just a portable jobsite table saw.

Was thinking about doing my next ones out of shipping pallets for the ones I'll gift to people for using to get their brews and empties to and from me, but I think I'll try this route now.

Just out of curiosity, what do you think your cost was per box? looking to get another ready to use material other than 1 by pine.

Also, my 24 bottle box I used some luan for the spacers, also didn't come out like I wanted, but unless you take it apart, you will not see those imperfections I don't like.
Be careful with shipping pallets. Personally, I would not let that stuff anywhere near my tools. You have no idea what is imbedded in that lumber, hidden nails, rocks, etc. Just takes one to smoke a nice crosscut blade or nice router bit.

I shopped around for lumber pricing. I'm buying a 5'x5' sheet at a time, one of .5" and one of .25". Lumber alone ends up around $15-$18 a crate, depending on the size you are making. This first go around, we did just 12oz crates. I needed 3 sheets of .5" and 4 of .25" to get 15 crates. It was around $14 and change per crate. Figure in glue and nails, and I just rounded to 15.

This past go around, (see my next post for cutlist), we made 16 crates, of various sizes. I needed 4 sheets of .5" and 4 sheets of .25", so this brought up the price to $18 ish.


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Old 12-10-2012, 01:54 PM   #22
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12 oz Case – Divider Key = 2.5”

Part Pieces Width Height Thickness
Side (A) 2 17.25” 11” .5”
End (B) 2 11.25” 11” .5”
Bottom (C) 1 16.75” 11.25” .25”
Short Divider (D) 5 10.75” 4” .25”
Long Divider (E) 3 16.25” 4” .25”
Top (F) 1 17” 11.25” .25”



16 oz Case – Divider Key = 3”

Part Pieces Width Height Thickness
Side (A) 2 20.25” 11” .5”
End (B) 2 13.25” 11” .5”
Bottom (C) 1 19.75” 13.25” .25”
Short Divider (D) 5 12.75” 4” .25”
Long Divider (E) 3 19.25” 4” .25”
Top (F) 1 20” 13.25” .25”

*** Take note the dimensions for 22oz parts changed since original posting ***

22 oz Case – Divider Key = 3”

Part Pieces Width Height Thickness
Side (A) 2 13.75” 13” .5”
End (B) 2 10” 13” .5”
Bottom (C) 1 13.25” 10” .25”
Short Divider (D) 5 9.5” 4” .25”
Long Divider (E) 3 12.75” 4” .25”
Top (F) 1 13.5” 10” .25”


Cage and Cork Case – Divider Key = 3.25”

Part Pieces Width Height Thickness
Side (A) 2 14.75” 14” .5”
End (B) 2 10.75” 14” .5”
Bottom (C) 1 14.25” 10.75” .25”
Short Divider (D) 5 10.25” 4” .25”
Long Divider (E) 3 13.75” 4” .25”
Top (F) 1 14.5” 10.75” .25”



I will have pics of these new sizes sometime later this week. Will be assembling them on Thursday night. I made up a jig for the divider keys. Two to be exact. I didn't really like how I had done it the first go round. So, I used a taller/wider piece of the .5" scrap, made my dado cut and then glued in the key this time. I didn't do that last time. It worked, but the key would slide out fairly often. Once it was secure, I then marked 2.5" space for the divider, and then clamped it to my miter gauge. Marked the holes on my gauge, drilled and countersunk the front so I could then bolt it to my gauge. This made it much more secure. Now that the key was glued securely in place, I could then stack two pieces at a time against the key and make the cuts. This was nice, and made it move pretty quickly. After doing the 2.5" cuts, I slid it down to 3.25" marked it and then drilled/counter sunk the holes. One fence takes care of the two sizes. Then I made one more fence for the 3" pieces.

For the 16oz returnables, they will also fit what I assume are the new grolsch bottles? The older ones are slightly larger in diameter. I was hoping that they all would have fit, but that didn't happen. So we could have either re-cut everything and made the larger in order to make new dividers spaced at something like 3 3/16". Personally, I don't have any grolsch bottles, so I didn't care. But, we decided that those that wanted them for the grolsch bottles, could just remove the wooden dividers, and insert the cardboard divider in from their cardboard case. This solved the problem and everyone seemed agreeable to that.



Reason: dimensions for 22oz parts changed
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Old 12-12-2012, 04:15 PM   #23
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Thanks for all the posts everyone. They've helped me design three sizes:

OLD Grolsch & swing-cap Virgil's Root Beer bottles
Hacker/Optimator type pint+ &
22 oz. bombers (double deuce to some)

I hope to post progress or finished photos eventually. I'm using as much scrap as I can, but am thinking once I get my final design, I might give away the prototypes & make some reallly nice crates out of furniture grade, baltic birch 1/2" plywood, w/ 1/8" walnut edge strips.

I'll likely use 1/8" ply for dividers, w/ 1/8" of play for variations & my own errors.

I love the rope handle idea for looks, less work cutting/finishing the (very nicely done) slotted versions posted, but also because they don't allow any LIGHT inside.

I plan on using 3/8" or larger box joints (aka "finger joints") on the sides; slots for fixed 1/8" to 1/4" bottom & 1/8" sliding lid w/ finger hole.

I think it's great to recycle any wood, but as said w/ PALLETS, stones, nails etc. might lie within, so just use an OLD saw blade - I have several 10" blades I don't care about - & safety goggles!

Any thoughts on how high the dividers need to be minimally?
Other design changes folks would make?

Mark
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Old 12-12-2012, 04:54 PM   #24
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I'm not really concerned about the light. Anything that is going to age, and you're worried about the light, is going to be in a basement/crawlspace where you're not going to be getting any light anyway. If you're that concerned about it, you can always take a piece of cloth on the inside of the handle (at the top) so it drapes over the handle hole.

Personally, the box joint is going to be overkill, unless looking for pure aesthetics/display piece (at which point a rope handle wouldn't be my choice for a display piece either). There is plenty of glue strength in the joint to begin with. And the dimensions listed above will work for your sizes if you go with .125" stock (for the 16oz case, but you'll have to figure out your "key" dimension, as it'll be off). I went with the .25" as I was using it for the bottom and top anyway. No point in ordering multiple sizes. Also allows you to get more out of the sheet/keep the cost down.

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Old 12-13-2012, 04:51 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfess1 View Post
Now I'm trying to find something like a plastic envelope that I can adhere to the end of the case. That way I can put a label or index card in there to say what the case contains.

Perhaps something like this would work for you


http://www.leevalley.com/en/Hardware...520,44199&ap=1
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Old 12-13-2012, 06:56 PM   #26
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Re: box joints, I would be doing it for appearance too, along w/ the contrasting 1/8" walnut strip to cover the birch plywood's edges --though I find the multi-layer, no-void Baltic birchply edges rather attractive, so I might just use a roundover router bit (1/8-1/4" radius).

Re: joint strength, solid wood END grain butt jointed is very poor for gluing (well documented in every woodworking journal), and should be reinforced with keys, splines, or nails, etc., but PLY has half its layers going laterally, so you will get some edge grain surface. You can easily reinforce a miter or butt joint with a simple corner-splining jig for the tablesaw.

Fun topic/beautiful projects - I hope others post their photos & that I get a chance to make sawdust soon.
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:00 PM   #27
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I'm really not going to debate the strength of the joint used here. It is plenty strong enough (not just a simple butt joint), there is enough glue surface, and the three brads tacked in will make this thing last longer than I, or anyone else that would like to build these, really need to worry about it.

Tonight, we're going to be assembling quite a bit:



This will all make:

Fifteen 12 oz crates
Eight 16 oz crates
Four 22 oz crates
Four Cage and Cork crates

Pictures of these assembled to follow.
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Old 12-14-2012, 02:29 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by musicbymark View Post

Re: joint strength, solid wood END grain butt jointed is very poor for gluing (well documented in every woodworking journal)
Good thing that's not the joint used for these. A rabbet has a larger glue surface area and has plenty of stength for a case of beer. A butt joint has enough. Finger joints are overkill and purely aesthetic.
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Old 12-14-2012, 01:37 PM   #29
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So we got started around 4:30pm yesterday. People trickled in/out/back in as work stopped/started/stopped, etc. Finished up assembling by 9:30, and enjoyed some damn good libations until midnight.



Apparently, as evident in this picture, there's a wee bit of sawdust on the camera lens.

From Left to Right:

16 oz returnables
22 oz
Cage and Cork
12 oz
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Old 12-14-2012, 01:42 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philjohnwilliams View Post
Perhaps something like this would work for you


http://www.leevalley.com/en/Hardware...520,44199&ap=1
I didn't even think to look to Lee Valley! Those are perfect. We're ordering up a bunch today!


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