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Old 12-03-2012, 01:00 PM   #11
jtd_419
 
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Aug 2012
Pomeroy, Washington
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That is a great cutlist and very precise directions. Anyone that can run the necessary tools should have no problem making these. I think I'll be making quite a few myself.

Thank you for the plans.

 
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Old 12-03-2012, 01:35 PM   #12
mb82
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Apr 2012
Charlottesville, Va
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Those look awesome.
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:52 PM   #13
dfess1
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Mar 2011
Flourtown, PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtd_419 View Post
That is a great cutlist and very precise directions. Anyone that can run the necessary tools should have no problem making these. I think I'll be making quite a few myself.

Thank you for the plans.
No Problem. And you are correct, they really aren't hard to make at all. With the simple joinery, you didn't even need any clamps to draw them together. Like I said, we just used the small brads to tack them together, act as clamps themselves as the glue dried. If you wanted to go without brads, a couple clamps would be all you need.

Really just need a router and a flush trim bit, as well as a roundover bit, a table saw with a rip/crosscut/combo blade (depending on how many times you like to change blades), and a dado set. Then again, if you have a good fence and a table mounted router table, you could make the dado cuts with a router bit as well, all depends on how you want to skin that cat. The dado blade option was easier in my opinion.

After making all of those, the only thing I would suggest doing differently, make the dado groove along the top edge of the pieces a hair wider than .25". Out of the 15 boxes we made, only 5 of them weren't deadnuts flat when glued up. The back end on the 5 in question was either a touch high or a touch low, causing the dado grooved to not be totally lined up. In either case, the top was not able to slide all the way into that groove. So we cheated there and ripped the .25" of the top (part F) that was over hanging the end of the crate, since there was no way to go back and fix the mistake at that point. Perhaps better care when putting them together would have caught that in the first place, but then again, I was trying to get all 15 assembled and finished in one day, as the older gentlemen seen in the pictures had stuff to do and I would be loosing my man power in short order. Either way, whether it did slide all the way back or not, didn't really matter. It keeps light out. We do know for next time to make sure they get lined up though.

Another thing we learned: My forstner bits are a set of cheap Chinese bits from Woodcraft, that came with my drill press. I don't use them enough to have warranted a new set yet. That said, we had to drill ALOT of holes to take out the bulk of the waste for the handles. When we first started out, the cuts were coming out fine. As the bit dulled, and more of my sacrificial table had more taken out (from an over zealous driller), we started to get alot of tearout. To remedy this, start on one side of the face, and drill your holes halfway or a little short of halfway down. Flip the piece over and drill both ends of the handle first (all the way through now) and then finish up with the overlapping in the middle. THis made for a much better/cleaner hole, and virtually no tearout after trimming it up with the flush trim bit. Any tearout we had on the other handles, we just made sure that they were the inside face that you wouldn't really see.

Lastly, the directions call for a .5" wide dado cut that would accept the ends. Keep in mind this is a rough size. Baltic Birch actually comes in mm sizing. You just have to use the .5" as an estimate, and use some scrap pieces until the dado width will cover up the ends. It helps to have a long piece of MDF that you can clamp to a fence, and the bring the edge of your dado blade up into from underneath. It buries the blade in the sacrifical fence.
File Type: pdf BOX LAYOUT 5.PDF (18.8 KB, 222 views)
File Type: pdf DIVIDER LAYOUT 5.PDF (52.3 KB, 121 views)

 
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Old 12-03-2012, 04:45 PM   #14
rekoob
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Feb 2011
Norfolk, VA
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Wow, very nice. Well done!

 
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Old 12-05-2012, 01:35 PM   #15
raysmithtx
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Sep 2012
Fort Worth, Texas
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Well done and thanks for the great pics and detailed explanation. You mentioned that you used 60" X 60" birch plywood but in my area the standard size is 48"X 48". Not a problem but the cut list diagram takes some modifications. These are definitely on my to do list.

 
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:14 PM   #16
musicbymark
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Apr 2012
Iron Mountain, MI
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Has anyone designed any really nice crates for the larger bottles? I'd love to see dimensions & photos of them. Thanks for posting.

Mark

 
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Old 12-09-2012, 07:59 AM   #17
ZackN
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Feb 2012
B-Town, CA
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Those look awesome! And were you thinking of something like this for the end?
Pocket

They have a larger selection too, magnetic, zippered, hanging ect.
More

Hope that helps.

 
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Old 12-09-2012, 02:09 PM   #18
brewskisteve
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May 2012
LI, NY
Posts: 27
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Wow, those are really great looking, BRAVO!! Thanks for the pictoral, it actually helped me out on my next set of boxes. My last ones came out good, but nowhere close to these as I started with 1x12 pine and also not having the advanced wood shop that ya'll got. I'm doing mine on down time out in my backyard on just a portable jobsite table saw.

Was thinking about doing my next ones out of shipping pallets for the ones I'll gift to people for using to get their brews and empties to and from me, but I think I'll try this route now.

Just out of curiosity, what do you think your cost was per box? looking to get another ready to use material other than 1 by pine.

Also, my 24 bottle box I used some luan for the spacers, also didn't come out like I wanted, but unless you take it apart, you will not see those imperfections I don't like.

 
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Old 12-09-2012, 02:28 PM   #19
VegasJ
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Oct 2012
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
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Those look almost as nice as my cardboard boxes...


well done!

 
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Old 12-09-2012, 02:55 PM   #20
PapaBearJay
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Dec 2012
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Those....are amazing....I'll be adding those to my list of projects.
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