Electrical Diagram feedback for a 50A HERMS Build - Home Brew Forums
Register Now For Free!

Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Electrical Diagram feedback for a 50A HERMS Build

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 11-30-2012, 12:02 AM   #1
Rarian
Recipes 
 
Aug 2012
Hamilton, Ontario
Posts: 25


After months of research and pondering, I've finally finalized plans, and started ordering components. With that said, I've drawn up what I believe to be a fairly standard 50A, 2 PID, 2 5500W Burner, 2 Pump setup. Before I go ahead and finish speccing out and ordering my electrical components I just wanted to post the diagram, in case I'm missing something obvious.

Thanks!

Edit: The part that I'm still uncertain about are fuses for the various components, I'm thinking I should be fine with the single 5A fuse shown, but kept debating individual fuses for the various components.


Reason: Fuse Question

 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2012, 02:36 AM   #2
lschiavo
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
 
lschiavo's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Sep 2009
Upper Peninsula of..., Michigan
Posts: 4,755
Liked 1112 Times on 754 Posts


Fuse your pid's per manufacturer recommendations. Auber has internal protection but I don't recognize your part numbers.

Are you aware of leakage through the ssr? You may get a dim light with the ssr off.

Any reason you chose the gfi shunt estop over your main contactor. I would kill the contactor since you have one there anyway.

Otherwise, it looks real nice.

 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2012, 02:40 AM   #3
TrainSafe
 
TrainSafe's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Mar 2011
Appleton, WI
Posts: 808
Liked 69 Times on 46 Posts


Question-

It looks like you have a main power relay. Why wouldn't you use your e-stop to cut power to the coil of that relay, rather than trying to trip the GFI by leaking current onto the ground?

 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2012, 02:54 AM   #4
Rarian
Recipes 
 
Aug 2012
Hamilton, Ontario
Posts: 25

Quote:
Originally Posted by lschiavo View Post
Are you aware of leakage through the ssr? You may get a dim light with the ssr off.
I was aware of the leakage, hadn't really contemplated the repercussions on the two element heating lights as they were a very last minute addition which I still might remove.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lschiavo View Post
Any reason you chose the gfi shunt estop over your main contactor. I would kill the contactor since you have one there anyway.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrainSafe View Post
It looks like you have a main power relay. Why wouldn't you use your e-stop to cut power to the coil of that relay, rather than trying to trip the GFI by leaking current onto the ground?
I was thinking about shunting to ground to trip the GFI so that there's no power whatsoever in my panel, instead of disengaging my main contactor coil and still having power present. If my thinking is off, I'm more than happy to hear it.

 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2012, 12:28 PM   #5
ajdelange
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Recipes 
 
Aug 2010
McLean/Ogden, Virginia/Quebec
Posts: 9,296
Liked 1494 Times on 1141 Posts


The proper way to do that is with a shunt trip breaker in the panel. Problem is that I can't find a GFCI shunt trip breaker (doesn't mean they don't exist - just that I haven't found one). Of course you can gin up your own GF detection circuit (TI has a chip) to trigger the breaker but that may be more than you want to undertake.

 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2012, 01:20 PM   #6
Rarian
Recipes 
 
Aug 2012
Hamilton, Ontario
Posts: 25

I've modified my diagram to have my E-Stop kill the coil to my main contactor as well as trip my GFI.



Quote:
Originally Posted by ajdelange View Post
The proper way to do that is with a shunt trip breaker in the panel. Problem is that I can't find a GFCI shunt trip breaker (doesn't mean they don't exist - just that I haven't found one). Of course you can gin up your own GF detection circuit (TI has a chip) to trigger the breaker but that may be more than you want to undertake.
I know this isn't necessarily the 'proper' way to trip a GF(C)I, but I believe it to be a safe and effective way of doing so. Am I wrong in this?

Reason: Responding to ajdelange.

 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2012, 02:58 PM   #7
MadGus
 
MadGus's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Dec 2008
Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 133
Liked 5 Times on 4 Posts


I like the idea of e-stop killing the contactor coil and tripping the GFCI. May have to rewire mine like that. Feels like a good backstop incase either the contactor fails closed, or the GFCI fails to trip.
__________________
Primary: Liberal Wheat 5.14
Secondary: Air
Bottle Conditioning: Gingerbread Stout 12.13
Kegged: IPA 3.14, Gluten Free Dos-Equis Clone 1.14
Commercial Tap: Legend Brown Ale
In Bottles: Hopslam, eSCB Holiday Ale 8.13

On Deck: Bourbon Cru 6.14

Gallons in 2014: 33

 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2012, 03:24 PM   #8
Rarian
Recipes 
 
Aug 2012
Hamilton, Ontario
Posts: 25

Besides the additional cost for a DPST (1-NO, 1-NC) e-stop, I love the idea. Grateful for this thread for inspiring me to go this route. I like saving money where I can, but if there's an emergency I'm trying to stop with this button, I want to do all I can to ensure that at least the electrical portion of it is stopped.

 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2012, 11:14 PM   #9
lschiavo
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
 
lschiavo's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Sep 2009
Upper Peninsula of..., Michigan
Posts: 4,755
Liked 1112 Times on 754 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rarian View Post
Besides the additional cost for a DPST (1-NO, 1-NC) e-stop, I love the idea. Grateful for this thread for inspiring me to go this route. I like saving money where I can, but if there's an emergency I'm trying to stop with this button, I want to do all I can to ensure that at least the electrical portion of it is stopped.
Should work nicely. I feel the contactor is a more reliable device for an e-stop. Throwing in the gfci shunt is extra insurance. Redundancy is a good thing in this circuit.

 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2012, 11:20 PM   #10
Rarian
Recipes 
 
Aug 2012
Hamilton, Ontario
Posts: 25

Quote:
Originally Posted by lschiavo View Post
Should work nicely. I feel the contactor is a more reliable device for an e-stop. Throwing in the gfci shunt is extra insurance. Redundancy is a good thing in this circuit.
Once your question made me stop and think about it, I realized that I was idiotic not to have it trigger the coil, far more reliable a way to kill the power in the panel, even if it by itself doesn't accomplish my goal of killing power to the panel.

I'm very happy with the improved redundancy.

 
Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
HERMS build, some electrical questions hopsalot Brew Stands 5 08-12-2011 07:31 PM
Need some advice on this electrical diagram NTabb Electric Brewing 28 03-22-2011 08:55 PM
Need help with my electrical diagram!!! Gabrew Electric Brewing 208 03-05-2011 02:10 AM
Final Electrical diagram, maybe??????????? EuBrew Electric Brewing 12 11-01-2010 10:16 PM
Simple float switch design with electrical diagram droopy Equipment/Sanitation 9 12-19-2004 05:56 PM


Forum Jump