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Old 11-29-2012, 10:26 PM   #11
enricocoron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rev2010 View Post
As Cmiyc stated, this is wrong. You don't need to mill it twice, simply tighten the gap. it's easy to do, you loosen the two set screws on the second (non-driven roller) side and adjust with the knurled knobs to move the roller closer. For now, if you don't have feeler gauges you can use an old credit card, I say old because the rollers will scratch the magnetic strip up. Tighten the knobs until they grip up against the card then tighten the screws. Be sure the rollers still move smoothly and look even. This gap setting will be right about 0.030 which I have my barley Crusher set to and I get 81% efficiency every single time I brew only barley based batches - being wheat is a much smaller kernel I've had varying efficiency and will be tightening my mill when I need to mill wheat.


Rev.
I was merely suggesting a quick fix to improve efficiency, I have used various mills of both two roller and 3 roller varieties and found the 3 roller crush to be more consistent over time, meaning that if your gap starts to spread you won't notice as much as you are basically milling twice already. Also .030 is probably too small a crush for some false bottoms, it's probably fine for kettle screens or manifolds but .040 is safer and you won't lose much efficiency.

 
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Old 11-29-2012, 10:37 PM   #12
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PS: regarding that idea for passing solder through the mill. Don't use very large diameter solder since it could overload and damage the rollers. Use soft electrical solder and not silver solder since the electrical stuff is softer.
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Old 11-30-2012, 03:06 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mabrungard
PS: regarding that idea for passing solder through the mill. Don't use very large diameter solder since it could overload and damage the rollers. Use soft electrical solder and not silver solder since the electrical stuff is softer.
And lead free solder, well unless you like heavy metals in your beer.

 
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Old 11-30-2012, 03:23 AM   #14
raysmithtx
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FYI a credit card is .030. That's how I set my crusher. I use biab so I double crush. Last batch had 78% efficiency.
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Old 12-01-2012, 07:38 AM   #15
kingwood-kid
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Keep tightening your gap until the husks don't look the way Kai says they should. Then loosen them back up until they do. This is probably going to be around .3 or the width of the pre-approved fake credit cards that barrage my mailbox,; but humidity, variation in grain size between years/maltsters/etc and other factors will change it a little for everyone.
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Old 12-16-2012, 03:26 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raysmithtx View Post
FYI a credit card is .030. That's how I set my crusher. I use biab so I double crush. Last batch had 78% efficiency.
Here is my update:

I finally got a chance to brew, things got busy the last few days and I finally chiseled away 4 hours to brew.

I started out setting my mill using my costco card and crushed about a pound of grains. It looked like it was too fine, seemed to be very fine pieces in the bucket under the mill. I backed off the mill ever so little so the card would pass through without making a roller turn and then crushed the rest of the grains.

I followed my normal routine with a 60 mash, fly sparge, and 60 minute boil. The first few pitchers of wort and grain pieces in them but then it ran clear and I had no issues with the sparge sticking.

I brewed a vanilla porter that had a target OG of 1.055 at 70% efficiency. I took my OG reading and it was 1.076. It didn't appear to me that I over-crushed my grains and provided I don't have any off-flavors in my beer, I think I have my mill dialed in. The efficiency certainly responded the way I wanted it to.

Thanks again for all the help. I only hope that once I get to be a proficient enough brewer, I am able to repay the favor.

Fred

 
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Old 12-16-2012, 06:45 PM   #17
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1.055 to 1.076 is a huge jump. I quickly tweaked my porter recipe in Beersmith to show 1.055 at 70% and to get a jump to 1.076, I'd have to hit 96-97% efficiency. Seems like you might have had something else going on also - like boiling it down for a lower volume (which increases OG).
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Old 12-17-2012, 01:04 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonW View Post
1.055 to 1.076 is a huge jump. I quickly tweaked my porter recipe in Beersmith to show 1.055 at 70% and to get a jump to 1.076, I'd have to hit 96-97% efficiency. Seems like you might have had something else going on also - like boiling it down for a lower volume (which increases OG).
I collected 6 gallons of wort and boiled it for 60 minutes, i had a small amount of foam boil over, maybe a cup total. After I chilled it I added the wort to my primary fermenter and then added my 1L yeast starter and took my OG reading, that is how I take all my readings so I could compare to the dozens of other beers I have done. I had about a half inch short of 5 gallons in the primary so I added enough water to bring it up to 5 gallons. All said and done with 5 gallons, I probably was closer to 1.065 or 1.070.

Either way, I am stoked. Normally I would have had that beer around 1.045 if it was supposed to target and 1.055.

In another 4 or 5 months I will be able to know how it tastes.

Thanks again,

Fred

 
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Old 12-17-2012, 06:27 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jammin View Post
Once you have the rollers aligned, make tick marks on each side to mark this [starting] point. You can then loosen the thumb screws (these should never be more than finger tight) and begin the process of adjusting your mill.
Oddly enough, with my MM, i have to tighten the crap out of my thumbscrews. No matter how finger tight i get it the rollers will wander on me. Maybe I just need to dial it in better or something.

 
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Old 12-17-2012, 06:35 PM   #20
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I dont have any issues with my mm-3 coming out of adjustment but I may have it cranked a little to tight since I set mine measuring peak to valley and have encountered a fair amount of binding which is a real pain.

 
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