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Old 11-28-2012, 04:08 PM   #1
inhousebrew
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So, first off I have little to no background knowledge on the subject and when I looked over aubers website (which seems to be what many brewers here use) I saw the one that is commonly referenced, I think the SYL-2352, and then a cheaper version, the SYL-1512A.

After reading through the two I guess I'm still slightly unsure as to what the difference is. I want a basic control for regulating the mash temp on a one element, 110v, recirculating 2.5 gallon eBAIB system.
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Old 11-28-2012, 04:28 PM   #2
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The SYL 2352 will control an SSR. I am not sure about the other one. If you get the 2352, you will also need to get the SSR relay as well. I have 4 of them and they work great. I like the ease on how to program them. I use them generally for monitering temperatures rather than control ( I use propane now), but they do work very well to maintain a temp with an element. I love the RTD probes. I have 5 of them. They are very accurate (The 2352 has an electronic adjustment anyway). I would also get the deluxe cables with the QDs on them.

Aubrins is fast to respond to questions.

 
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Old 11-28-2012, 04:48 PM   #3
inhousebrew
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So far as I can tell the other one will control an SSR, at least that's what I got from the instructions I read. However now after looking at the two I'm not sure the cheaper one has a manual mode, which I'm gathering is useful for the boil???
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Old 11-28-2012, 04:54 PM   #4
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I used the manual mode as I want to change the temps during the brew day. First I set my pre stike temp for the Mash Strike. I then set my temp for the HERMS bath. I then up the temp in the HLT of the Batch Strike.

On my BK, I set the boil then I lower to cooling goal (I recycle the wort into the BK through a plate chiller until I get to pitch temp.

 
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Old 11-29-2012, 03:17 AM   #5
inhousebrew
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Ok say it seems like the extra few dollars might be worth it. As for the RTD probe I was looking at a few of them.

First this cheap one. It says the probe and cable are water immersible and can operate past boiling temps. It sounds like I could just toss that in the center of the bag during the mash to take a reading.

Otherwise I was looking at this 1/2" one and was thinking about putting it in a three way valve (T-valve?) after the pump. It could take the recirculating temp and I could also attach that tubing to the outlet of the plate chiller to take a cooling temp.

Any input on either?
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Old 11-29-2012, 12:26 PM   #6
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I personally use one similar to the 1/2" one (Like an idiot, I got the 1/4" one and a 1/2" to 1/4" bung... should have saved money and just got the 1/2" one).

I like the option of having it in the T because as you recirculate you get true temperatures across the probe. If you just stick the probe in the grain bag, it's possible that you don't get good recirculation around that point and you'll see pockets with varried temperatures.

I didn't look up the 1512A but if the only difference is that it doesn't do manual, ask yourself if you actually plan to boil with your element or if you will use some other means. Manual mode is great for boiling, but you probably wouldn't use it if you just want mash control.
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:13 PM   #7
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I have a Tri Clover Instrument T and I use the RTD probe made for it. It works great. I have five of their RTD probes in various configurations and they are all right on without any need for correction. I have a calibrating thermometer (mecury) that I use to set all of my others and these need none.

 
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Old 11-30-2012, 07:12 PM   #8
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inhouse, if you're recircing through a HERMS or RIMS you want to take the temp ouput at the output side of that device. if just recircing for clarity then anywhere in the loop is probably ok. either way, put the sensor(s) in a T somewhere the wort is flowing. i put one on the output of my HERMS coil and one on the end of my CFC so i can see post-heat temps and post-chill temps.

2352 is my vote for sure, that's what auber recommends for brewing because of the fuzzy logic functions.

 
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Old 11-30-2012, 08:01 PM   #9
inhousebrew
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I was looking at doing something like this setup:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/110...atches-341219/

Only thing is I'm thinking about skipping the sight glass for now at least which is where they had their sensor hooked up through. That's why I was looking for some other ideas. Just kind of brainstorming more than anything right now. But thanks to everyone so far!
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:30 PM   #10
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You could definitely put it in a tee after your drain valve, and it will take consistent readings while you are recirculating, but obviously not when you stop recirculating. That should not be a problem though if you are using the PID in manual mode to boil. You could set the PID alarm to close to boiling while recirculating, then stop recirculating and adjust manual mode when it gets to boiling.

 
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