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Old 11-30-2012, 04:30 PM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
....I think I'm at minimum, putting a thick coat of plastidip on the bottom makes sense for avoiding chipping the glass on concrete floors...
I'm interested in how well plastidip adheres to glass, so if you end up trying this out please report back your results, specifically adherence to glass. I also would consider their other product 'rubber dip', or some other rhino-lining-type product.

 
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Old 11-30-2012, 04:31 PM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stpug View Post
I'm interested in how well plastidip adheres to glass, so if you end up trying this out please report back your results, specifically adherence to glass. I also would consider their other product 'rubber dip', or some other rhino-lining-type product.
They talked about it in the original thread I posted.
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Old 12-01-2012, 01:44 AM   #123
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#2. From a clogged airlock or blowoff?

 
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Old 12-01-2012, 07:06 AM   #124
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To make your glass carboys shatterproof, just... Be careful with them!! Otherwise, buy plastic.

Long discussion for such a short answer.


Quote:
#2. From a clogged airlock or blowoff?
And I'm guessing #1 was dropping it. A clogged airlock will not shatter glass, unless you've already dropped it on it's head a few times and even then I doubt it. Just be careful with your glass and it won't break or shatter and it can keep you happy for a lifetime. I love my glass carboys.

 
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Old 12-01-2012, 07:23 AM   #125
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Quote:
the whole thing is a joke
Oh, okay, haha, so everyone agrees, just be careful with glass objects.

 
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Old 12-02-2012, 03:14 AM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheezydemon3 View Post
There is only one way....and it involves a hammer.

The longer I brew, the more I wonder why anyone would ferment in a breakable light whore.

I actually had my bucket sitting wher the sun hit it for a few minutes. I moved it.

I am wierd though. I brew, seal it up with airlock and don't peek until I syphon. No samples, no readings, no peeking.
That's my method. Into the bucket where it sits in the "freezer" for 3 weeks. Then right into the bottles. That's when I take the first SG reading since putting it into the fermenter.
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Old 12-02-2012, 02:34 PM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C-Rider View Post
That's my method. Into the bucket where it sits in the "freezer" for 3 weeks. Then right into the bottles. That's when I take the first SG reading since putting it into the fermenter.


It works. I just made a really light pale ale after doing tons of very flavorful beers. I was actually a little concerned that such a clean light beer would reveal some off flavors the big beers had been hiding...

A buddy brought over a sixer of 2 hearted. He drank one, and after tasting my new brew left the remaining five bells here after having 6 or 7 of my brews. All is as it should be!

 
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Old 12-02-2012, 03:39 PM   #128
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How about coating in polyurethane? It'd still be somewhat more transparent then plasti-dip and you could probably go thicker on the coatings.

Maybe wrapping the carboy in chicken wire for some mechanical blast insulation and then putting a layer of poly around that would secure it for the most part.

Safety glass is two pieces of glass sandwiched between polycarbonate - not quite sure how they bond it. Keeps the whole glassy mess stuck together rather than fragmenting into people.

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Old 12-05-2012, 06:20 AM   #129
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Ii would say there is two sides to the coin of this predicament. As far as if you were to use a material to protect the carboy from shattering into dangerous sized pieces, using a dark colored material would be beneficial for protecting against light damage but it could be detrimental to the cleanliness of your carboy. That can of flex seal if it adhered to glass well would most likely do the trick but like I said would also make it a pain in the neck to make sure you got all of that pesky krausen ring off from your last batch.

I would personally IMHO try either a clear somewhat permanent material like maybe carpet tape which is extremely strong and store where there is no worry of light exposure Or maybe go with something removable like a black yoga mat which has nice grip but would need to be reconfigured maybe cut out and made into an almost carboy sized "beer coozie". Which you can use for light protection and shatter protection when moving your carboy and be removed when cleaning those pain in the ass spots in your carboy so you can visually see that you got all of that beautiful gook out of there.

Good luck. Let us know which route you decide to take. Cheers.

 
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Old 12-05-2012, 03:40 PM   #130
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I'm curious if the protective layer is going to allow a fracture to end up with less energy behind the final blowout or if it is going to stall the blowout until higher pressures are achieved and the vessel gives way more spectacularly. Like if this were to be applied to bottling with growlers you might go from bottle bombs to bottle nukes.

I was doing some volunteerwork down South a few years after the hurricanes and Anheuser had sent over a ton of palettes of canned water which went horribly bad (strange metallic taste from the aluminum, I don't think there was an inner coating/barrier to the cans; stagnant water). No one was drinking these. So with some scrap metal twists kicking around we wrapped up the cans and threw them in a bonfire we had going at camp. The reinforced cans lasted longer in the fire but gave a much bigger bang when they went off.

 
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