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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Switchcraft's plug and outlet option
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Old 02-09-2013, 01:54 AM   #41
smittygouv30
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I had the same issue as I ordered the 41F1's. No matter what size female connector you get I still think you are going to have to solder and shrink wrap the connections in order to feel any kind of security using these plugs/receptacles. I love them personally, as thy are small, easy to use, and a heck of a lot cheaper than the nema plugs. The down side is that they are a lot of work to put together. Here are some pics of my element receptacle. I did the same thing to go from wall receptacle to spa panel, spa panel to control panel, and control panel to element.


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Old 02-09-2013, 01:38 PM   #42
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Jbnla,
Do you think that you received the non "fast-on" type? That's what it sounds like; could you post a photo? I agree shrink wrap should be used regardless.


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Old 02-09-2013, 03:51 PM   #43
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They are both Fast-on, one is the more common .250", and that one is the .187" (harder to find terminals for ). The proper size faston on should be pretty secure, although as these aren't designed as AC connectors (I'm not arguing against their use) the separation between conductors isn't as much as it usually is. With the larger .250" terminals they had to put plastic separators because they're closer together. If you look at AC rated connectors they have much more for separation between terminals so as already mentioned you should probably heat shrink them to be safe.

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HPCP41F HPC Panel Mount Receptacle, Rectangular, .140" Diameter Countersunk Mounting Holes, .100" Flange Depth / .250" Faston Terminals

HPCP41F1 HPC Panel Mount Receptacle, Rectangular, .140" Diameter Countersunk Mounting Holes, .100" Flange Depth / .187" Faston Terminals
If you've got the $$ I find the PowerCON connectors are much nicer. (I bought switchcraft for my elements and got some 20A powercon for the pumps).
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Old 02-09-2013, 04:23 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by runs4beer View Post
Jbnla,
Do you think that you received the non "fast-on" type? That's what it sounds like; could you post a photo? I agree shrink wrap should be used regardless.
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/attachme...1&d=1360426625

Thanks for all the replies. Here is what I ordered. I believe I should have ordered HPCP41F instead of HPCP41F1. If you agree you may make the change in your OP for others. Thanks for your excellent instructions.

smittygouv30: much thanks that gives me confidence and I am just going to use 120V not 240V.
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Old 02-09-2013, 10:27 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbnla View Post
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/attachme...1&d=1360426625

Thanks for all the replies. Here is what I ordered. I believe I should have ordered HPCP41F instead of HPCP41F1. If you agree you may make the change in your OP for others. Thanks for your excellent instructions.

smittygouv30: much thanks that gives me confidence and I am just going to use 120V not 240V.
I'm glad I have given you confidence but why only use for 120v and not the 240v. These things are fantastic as long as your realize that they are a little bit of work to install safely/correctly. I happen to enjoy the process of building brewing equipment almost as much as brewing itself, so for me it wasn't that big of a deal.

I had never soldered electrical before but with with a few quick searches I bought the correct electrical solder (60/40) and flux and connected the fast-on to the blades without issues. I use this for all 240v connections. Soooo, don't be scurrr'd

Corey
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Old 02-10-2013, 02:55 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbnla View Post
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/attachme...1&d=1360426625

Thanks for all the replies. Here is what I ordered. I believe I should have ordered HPCP41F instead of HPCP41F1. If you agree you may make the change in your OP for others.
You might be right now that I look around at other places but it's weird when I look at my Amazon order history I order HPCP41F1 from parts express and got the ones wanted... when I get to a pc and can edit my post I will. Sorry for the confusion.
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Old 02-12-2013, 04:00 AM   #47
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Picture of one finished element with Switch Craft Fast-On "Pig Tail" solution: (If anyone else has done this yet, I certainly haven't seen it.)

Here's a close-up of the SwitchCraft connector:


Here's the two elements and power cable all in a single shot:



can you explain the triclover elements? how do they install and how did build them? thx
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Old 02-13-2013, 08:13 PM   #48
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Hey Runs4beer,

Can you post pictures of your control panel? I'm interested in building something like it but was wondering how you laid your out.
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Old 02-17-2013, 04:19 PM   #49
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I have been thinking about the question of how to make sure you don’t plug the power cable into the element socket or vice versa. I think that if you go by any of P-Js wiring diagrams there won’t be a catastrophic problem because there is a contactor separating the elements from the rest of the control panel and if you apply voltage to the element side of the contactor there is nowhere for current to flow so no harm is done. Likewise, plugging the element plug into the power input will do nothing. You will know you done it the wrong way when nothing happens.
Now please tell me if I’m wrong on this because I’m about to build a control panel using these plugs.
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Old 02-17-2013, 04:26 PM   #50
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runs4beer said
"I power my control panel with a 16 foot run of 10/4 SOOW Neoprene-Jacketed Power Cable from a spa panel that is hangs on the wall of my brewery."
Did you have a problem getting the 10/4 to go into the plug cover? If so, how did you solve it?


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