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Old 11-20-2012, 05:15 PM   #1
Maltose
 
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I'm sure this is somewhere on here, but I couldn't find it. I'm looking for a diagram for my build: electric herms with 12 motorized 12v ball valves, three pumps and 2 5500w elements.

 
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Old 07-23-2013, 03:13 AM   #2
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I know this is an old thread but I figured I'd bump it since I'm looking for (literally) the exact same thing.

 
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Old 03-18-2015, 12:41 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emjay View Post
I know this is an old thread but I figured I'd bump it since I'm looking for (literally) the exact same thing.
...and bumped again. I'm in the same position, and am havnig some trouble figuring out the BCS -> 5VDC relay board -> 12VDC transformer -> motorized valve wiring.
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Old 03-18-2015, 06:16 PM   #4
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Maybe if you post a little more detail someone could help you out. What's the issue you're running into?

 
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Old 03-18-2015, 07:20 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKoravos View Post
Maybe if you post a little more detail someone could help you out. What's the issue you're running into?
I've been struggling with the various wiring diagrams provided by KLD for their motorized valves. I have 7 of their 3-way KLD20S valves with the BD3 wiring option. I'm wanting to control them through the BCS-462.

I think I have the THEORY figured out to about the 80% level of confidence, but I haven't applied electricity to any of that theory yet!

I'm still confused on the idea of the relay board being active low, but I'm assuming I can deal with that through the NO/NC terminals - I'll just have to play around with it, I'm guessing.

Here's what I came up with - yeah, I'm using a lot of terminal blocks, but I fell into having 100 of them (Phoenix Contact), so I figured I might as well use them.

Thoughts?
File Type: pdf KLD Valve Wiring Schematic (BD3).pdf (170.4 KB, 161 views)
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Namako

Indecision... may or may not be my problem... I'm not sure

Primary 1 - Empty
Primary 2 - Empty
Kegged: Empty
Planned: Maerzen, Maibock, and a Kellerbier/Zwickle
Coming Soon: An upgraded Blichmann 20-gallon, Kal-inspired, BCS-controlled, all-electric RIMS-based pico-brewery (by mid-Summer 2015, after the winter thaw, and the NHC, I swear!!)

Reason: Replaced the PDF - had an error on the power out from the 5VDC power supply

 
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Old 03-18-2015, 08:54 PM   #6
JKoravos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Namako View Post
I've been struggling with the various wiring diagrams provided by KLD for their motorized valves. I have 7 of their 3-way KLD20S valves with the BD3 wiring option. I'm wanting to control them through the BCS-462.

I think I have the THEORY figured out to about the 80% level of confidence, but I haven't applied electricity to any of that theory yet!

I'm still confused on the idea of the relay board being active low, but I'm assuming I can deal with that through the NO/NC terminals - I'll just have to play around with it, I'm guessing.

Here's what I came up with - yeah, I'm using a lot of terminal blocks, but I fell into having 100 of them (Phoenix Contact), so I figured I might as well use them.

Thoughts?

Yeah, I actually just bought that same relay board to control via Arduino. Since you have NO and NC contacts it shouldn't really much make a difference on the relay on state. I don't know anything about the BCS-462 so I don't know if you can change that on the controller side.

As far as the valves go, I'm confused as to why you have a +12V and -12V rail? It appears you're putting 24V across the valve. Otherwise the way it's wired in your diagram makes sense to me, though i agree that the wiring diagram for the valve is odd. I don't get why you would apply 12V on two separate input leads to get it to switch states.

In cases like this I usually just play with things until they work or I blow them up.

 
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Old 03-18-2015, 09:29 PM   #7
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Yeah, it's that "blowing up" part that keeps me drawing instead of building!!
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Namako

Indecision... may or may not be my problem... I'm not sure

Primary 1 - Empty
Primary 2 - Empty
Kegged: Empty
Planned: Maerzen, Maibock, and a Kellerbier/Zwickle
Coming Soon: An upgraded Blichmann 20-gallon, Kal-inspired, BCS-controlled, all-electric RIMS-based pico-brewery (by mid-Summer 2015, after the winter thaw, and the NHC, I swear!!)

 
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Old 03-18-2015, 10:17 PM   #8
JKoravos
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I view blowing things up not as a failure, but a learning opportunity.

 
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Old 03-19-2015, 12:46 AM   #9
Namako
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKoravos View Post
Yeah, I actually just bought that same relay board to control via Arduino. Since you have NO and NC contacts it shouldn't really much make a difference on the relay on state. I don't know anything about the BCS-462 so I don't know if you can change that on the controller side.

As far as the valves go, I'm confused as to why you have a +12V and -12V rail? It appears you're putting 24V across the valve. Otherwise the way it's wired in your diagram makes sense to me, though i agree that the wiring diagram for the valve is odd. I don't get why you would apply 12V on two separate input leads to get it to switch states.

In cases like this I usually just play with things until they work or I blow them up.
Regarding the valves... my guess is that the actuator keeps the two 12VDC circuits isolated, much like a mechanical contactor keeps the coil and contactor circuits separated. One +12VDC is simply hot all the time, while the second +12VDC operates a coil, pulling the contactor with the other +12VDC circuit from one contact to another (switching states) based on whether it is hot or not (relay switch), thereby turning the valve to the desired location.

This is only a guess, though - I haven't (and I likely won't) tear one apart to see.
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Namako

Indecision... may or may not be my problem... I'm not sure

Primary 1 - Empty
Primary 2 - Empty
Kegged: Empty
Planned: Maerzen, Maibock, and a Kellerbier/Zwickle
Coming Soon: An upgraded Blichmann 20-gallon, Kal-inspired, BCS-controlled, all-electric RIMS-based pico-brewery (by mid-Summer 2015, after the winter thaw, and the NHC, I swear!!)

 
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Old 03-19-2015, 02:42 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Namako View Post
Regarding the valves... my guess is that the actuator keeps the two 12VDC circuits isolated, much like a mechanical contactor keeps the coil and contactor circuits separated. One +12VDC is simply hot all the time, while the second +12VDC operates a coil, pulling the contactor with the other +12VDC circuit from one contact to another (switching states) based on whether it is hot or not (relay switch), thereby turning the valve to the desired location.

This is only a guess, though - I haven't (and I likely won't) tear one apart to see.
Where you have -12Vdc on your diagram are you meaning this is the negative side of the 12Vdc supply, or that it is supplying -12Vdc relative to 0Vdc (ground). I guess the otherway to ask my question is if you hooked up a multimeter over a +12Vdc and -12Vdc terminal would the meter read 12Vdc or 24Vdc?

As for the relay board - Active low means that the inputs pins on the board have to be brought to 0V to turn them on. This may be an issue depending on how the BCS is setup. If the BCS is not setup with a pulldown resistor (internal or external to the MCU ) to force the output to 0V when not on it will most likely not turn on. I don't know how the BCS will handle it sorry, and I don't know how a suck-it-and-see approach will affect the BCS (don't want it blowing up on you)

 
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