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Old 11-19-2012, 11:26 PM   #21
Thisismyname
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Nov 2012
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Originally Posted by tre9er View Post
Adding hops to wort that's not boiling? There will be almost no bitterness from them, and despite what people say "I don't like hoppy beers" you NEED bitterness or it's not beer. Even Bud Light has hop bitterness.

You can't look at brewing like making a cake where you just mix everything together. Ya gotta do it in steps, even with extract. At minimum, hops need to be added per a schedule, to boiling water or wort. The extract should be added somewhere during the boil or just as the heat is removed. Yeast should never be added until the wort is cooled to 70F or below. Everything should be sanitized that will touch the wort after it's no longer boiling. I'd use StarSan if possible. It's no rinse, yeast love it, and it just works...in a matter of seconds.
I know what you're saying but the reason I didn't boild the malt is because I know for a fact you're not supposed to boild the extract from the kits since they've already been boiled and it changes the properties of the sugars and nutrients in the malt that make it very hard for the yeast to absord. This isn't coming from just me either, all the malt extract kits say right on the instructions never to boil and even the brewer at the micro brewery I buy my supplies from told me not to boil the extract either.

I have made decent beers in the past doing exactly as i did, except I always used cooper's yeasts instead of higher quality yeasts and this time i didn't spend even a quarter of the time rinsing out the hoses and equipment to make sure no chlorine was left behind... regardless, I think i either killed my yeast or possibly infected it by maybe not leaving my hydrometer in the chlorine long enough.

 
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:41 PM   #22
metanoia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thisismyname

I know what you're saying but the reason I didn't boild the malt is because I know for a fact you're not supposed to boild the extract from the kits since they've already been boiled and it changes the properties of the sugars and nutrients in the malt that make it very hard for the yeast to absord. This isn't coming from just me either, all the malt extract kits say right on the instructions never to boil and even the brewer at the micro brewery I buy my supplies from told me not to boil the extract either.
Interesting. Looks like Palmer and Papazian should update their bibles if that's the case.

Where are you getting these kits from anyway? This goes against every other source out there, not to mention that not boiling your wort probably increases your chance of infection by a big percentage.
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:52 PM   #23
tmoney645
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It sounds like he is using a kit with Hopped extract, like Mr. Beer. Those you are not supposed to boil, and any hop additions are only for flavor/nose since the extract is already hopped for bitterness. Just thinking out loud...

 
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:01 AM   #24
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StarSan is no rinse and just a few minutes of contact. I swear by it.

 
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Old 11-20-2012, 01:10 AM   #25
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It sounds like we're comparing apples and oranges here.

The OP made a "no boil" prehopped kit. They are commonly called a "kit and a kilo" type of kit, as they don't have a boil, hops, or anything. It's like mixing up frozen apple juice. You sanitize, stir, and add yeast. There isn't any boil or anything like most people do when they "brew". It's very different than what many brewing kits are, but common in the UK and Australia. I think they are more common in Canada than in the US as well, and there are some people in the US that use them. But most people in the US buy grains, extract, hops and yeast and do a boil so it's very different and not something that many of us are familiar with.

Sanitizing is still crucial, of course. I'd bottle this beer when it starts to clear, and see what happens. The hydrometer reading sounds wonky, that's for sure, but I don't think it's as low as is being read right now. I think the hydrometer is faulty.

Those "Kit and a kilo" kits are not particularly good, but they can make a drinkable beer in the end.
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Old 11-20-2012, 01:49 AM   #26
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I understand what you're saying about not boiling pre-hopped kits though I've never used one. Boiling would possibly increase bitterness and potentially darken the wort. I would want to get the wort up to at least 140*F for 10 min or so to sterilize it though.

I doubt your infection came from the hydrometer. Chlorine will kill just about any bug in seconds and is an effective sanitizer. It's just not that good for beer.
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Old 11-20-2012, 02:10 AM   #27
Anbrand
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Ditto on the hydrometer. I recently took a reading that I knew was way off and after examining the hydrometer at different angles in good light I discovered a hairline fracture. They are fragile..on my third one now. When this one goes I'm going with a refractometer. Ditto also on the Starsan. 20 batches in two years and no issues here.

 
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:49 AM   #28
BeerAlchemist
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I was watching a brewing TV episode where they were making a batch that ended in 0.998, and they mentioned, that It just means that it has less sugar than what naturally is in water. They didn't have a bug, but a very attenuative yeast.

 
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Old 11-20-2012, 01:04 PM   #29
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they mentioned, that It just means that it has less sugar than what naturally is in water.
??? What? That's crazy talk!

 
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Old 11-20-2012, 05:41 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yooper View Post
It sounds like we're comparing apples and oranges here.

The OP made a "no boil" prehopped kit. They are commonly called a "kit and a kilo" type of kit, as they don't have a boil, hops, or anything. It's like mixing up frozen apple juice. You sanitize, stir, and add yeast. There isn't any boil or anything like most people do when they "brew". It's very different than what many brewing kits are, but common in the UK and Australia. I think they are more common in Canada than in the US as well, and there are some people in the US that use them. But most people in the US buy grains, extract, hops and yeast and do a boil so it's very different and not something that many of us are familiar with.

Sanitizing is still crucial, of course. I'd bottle this beer when it starts to clear, and see what happens. The hydrometer reading sounds wonky, that's for sure, but I don't think it's as low as is being read right now. I think the hydrometer is faulty.

Those "Kit and a kilo" kits are not particularly good, but they can make a drinkable beer in the end.
Thanks for clearing this up. I hadn't heard of these no-boil kits, though I know of pre-hopped extract. I still wonder if he mixed the yeast together with semi-warm/hot wort rather than cooling into the 70's at least.
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