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Old 11-22-2012, 05:44 AM   #21
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In a 5 gallon batch (6+ gallons in the boil kettle), why are we concerned about temperature sensor scan times ?

A human is (usually) able to control the burner manually and at the end of a long brewing day my reaction times are in the order of 10 seconds to 10 minutes.

If the thermal mass of the temperature sensor is minimized why do we even need a PID loop ? How many degrees are we expecting the wort/mash to climb after I turn off the burner ? These systems have huge thermal capacitance and almost no thermal inductance that I can see. How much energy can the bottom of the brew pot store ?

I'm going to start really simple and see where it takes me. I'll learn as I go. I'll report everything I learn.

I do not understand some of the approaches people are taking to the problem of controlling a brewstand. Maybe I'll change my views as we move forward. Either way, we need a first step and I'll be taking it in the next couple weeks.


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Old 11-22-2012, 09:25 AM   #22
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Talking about the brewtroller UI, not to forget to mention that a webUI is already on stage for this system

Browse to http:// live.brewtroller.com

There you can input the local ip of the brewtroller and everything is then manageable from this UI

UI developed by a bt user, nice example to see. Different, but useful approach to see.


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Old 11-22-2012, 10:51 AM   #23
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Fair enough Brewman and Kladue.
Look forward to seeing what you develop.
Cheers.
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:52 AM   #24
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Hey goingmad, you sure about that brewtroller link? Not working for me right now.
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Old 11-22-2012, 11:54 AM   #25
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check this out:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Web-...Pi-GPIO/#intro
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Old 11-22-2012, 01:25 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by brewman ! View Post
I saw some of those sources too. I didn't trust that they weren't 3rd party knock offs or manufacturing line rejects. I'll start with genuine parts from a trusted supplier and consider alternatives once I got them working.

Also, I got the DS18S20s rather than the DS18B20s.

The B series allows one to set the resolution of the response to be finer than the 9 bits (0.5C, 0.7F) that the S series is fixed at. The accuracy on these devices is +/- 0.5C from the factory, so the only way that I could see needing higher resolution is if one applied a correction curve to the output.

At this point I didn't think it was worth it. I'll be happy to get the factory accuracy and resolution working. I'll reconsider things once I do that.
I've tested about 20 of them so far, and all have been spot-on. As to the resolution, a few bytes of code are all that's needed to use the 9-bit resolution and the resultant increased response time. I tend toward the " better to have it and not need it" philosophy.

I've picked up all of my DS2406+ parts from Digi-Key, as they are not as widely available.
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Old 11-22-2012, 01:58 PM   #27
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What are you guys using to draw the UIs ? I'd like some gauge and vessel jpegs if you have them.
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Old 11-22-2012, 03:29 PM   #28
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What are you guys using to draw the UIs ? I'd like some gauge and vessel jpegs if you have them.
I've played with this, kinda neat...
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Old 11-22-2012, 04:56 PM   #29
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I have an R Pi, an Arduino 2560, a handfull of DS18B20's (a couple are hi-temp, thermowell), basic java experience from Android and Arduino coding, and experience in requirements documentation. My R Pi wifi is in the mail. I do not have a relay board or one wire dongle since I was initially looking at the R Pi/Arduino option.

I will be following closely and continue to expand my hardware so I can play better.
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Old 11-22-2012, 05:10 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yorg View Post
Hey goingmad, you sure about that brewtroller link? Not working for me right now.
http://live.brewtroller.com

copy&paste in your browser address box, just seen as a check

let me know if working or not for you.

Uh, just seen there was a space in my other link, my fault!


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