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Old 11-19-2012, 05:17 PM   #21
BadNewsBrewery
 
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P-J,
Awesome - thanks. I printed it out and whited out the two lines you deleted but this is much cleaner. The only thing I need to fix - I purchased a momentary switch for the SYL-2352 matching the other two momentaries, but realize now the 2352 doesn't have a reset like the 2451 so I'm going to have to use a latching switch for that one.

I think you have all the switches I'm using. From bottom to top of the panel in Post 16 - Two red (elements for HLT / BK), two blue (Pump 1 / 2). Then 3 red momentaries (resets for PIDs). The two green ones are lights to indicate element on / off. Then 3 alarm buzzers above the PIDs. Lasty, a mushroom EPO and a keyed on/off.

Thanks again! If I can find some time tonight I'm goign to start wiring the back panel.
-Kevin

 
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:03 PM   #22
P-J
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You "whited out the 2 lines I deleted"? I don't understand. Which lines?

I changed the light color of the element indicators to green.
Just refresh the posts and the changes will show.

Anything else I need to change or add?

P-J


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Originally Posted by BadNewsBrewery View Post
P-J,
Awesome - thanks. I printed it out and whited out the two lines you deleted but this is much cleaner. The only thing I need to fix - I purchased a momentary switch for the SYL-2352 matching the other two momentaries, but realize now the 2352 doesn't have a reset like the 2451 so I'm going to have to use a latching switch for that one.

I think you have all the switches I'm using. From bottom to top of the panel in Post 16 - Two red (elements for HLT / BK), two blue (Pump 1 / 2). Then 3 red momentaries (resets for PIDs). The two green ones are lights to indicate element on / off. Then 3 alarm buzzers above the PIDs. Lasty, a mushroom EPO and a keyed on/off.

Thanks again! If I can find some time tonight I'm goign to start wiring the back panel.
-Kevin

 
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:31 PM   #23
BadNewsBrewery
 
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The lines I whited out on the original print out were the ones running to the main on/off switch for the LED power. Not having an illuminated switch it was a quick fix bit your redone diagram took care of it.

Here's more of a question than a request for change - I purchased two single-pole breakers in addition to the two double-poles. Any advantage to splitting the 120v loads in the panel to both legs or is the demand so low that keeping everything on one leg doesn't cause any issue? I'm assuming the latter as that's how everyone else does it, just figured it was worth the discussion given that I have the fourth breaker.
-Kevin
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:49 PM   #24
P-J
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Installing the breaker would balance the 120V load across the 240V feed. You have the breaker already so you could do that. I do not think there is any problem running the system as shown as there is adaquate power being supplied for the system as is. Installing it just becomes more work for you.

P-J

Quote:
Originally Posted by BadNewsBrewery View Post
The lines I whited out on the original print out were the ones running to the main on/off switch for the LED power. Not having an illuminated switch it was a quick fix bit your redone diagram took care of it.

Here's more of a question than a request for change - I purchased two single-pole breakers in addition to the two double-poles. Any advantage to splitting the 120v loads in the panel to both legs or is the demand so low that keeping everything on one leg doesn't cause any issue? I'm assuming the latter as that's how everyone else does it, just figured it was worth the discussion given that I have the fourth breaker.
-Kevin

 
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:59 PM   #25
BadNewsBrewery
 
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Pretty much what I was thinking - extra work for minimal gain. If we were running larger 120v loads I could see it...
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Old 11-19-2012, 10:09 PM   #26
P-J
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Please update this thread as you progress in your build. This is the place where you pose questions and seek answers. It is also the place where you post your outstanding cheers of success. (Hey, I'm subscribe to this thread and I 'wanna know. Ok?)

Wishing you great success.

P-J

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Originally Posted by BadNewsBrewery View Post
Pretty much what I was thinking - extra work for minimal gain. If we were running larger 120v loads I could see it...

 
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Old 11-19-2012, 10:27 PM   #27
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Come hell or high water, I will get results and post them. Success is in the eye of the beholder so time will tell!!
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Old 11-19-2012, 10:34 PM   #28
P-J
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadNewsBrewery View Post
Come hell or high water, I will get results and post them. Success is in the eye of the beholder so time will tell!!
Hey: If I can help you in your adventure in any way, Please let me know.

P-J

 
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Old 11-23-2012, 11:46 AM   #29
BadNewsBrewery
 
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Panel is complete pending delivery of the faceplate. Now to move on to fitting the internals and wiring.
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Old 11-24-2012, 03:34 AM   #30
Smiling-Poodle-Brewery
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I have a question on the 3 pole contactor. It looks like the schematic shows only the 2 hots being controlled and the key switch is wired into the third pole. Am I interpreting it correctly? Or is the key switch wired into the control coil?

 
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