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Old 11-27-2012, 04:51 PM   #51
BadNewsBrewery
 
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The SWA-2451 has a reset button for the timer. With the SYL-2352s and others you would actually have an alarm on/off switch if you wanted anything. I haven't brewed with the setup yet so I couldn't tell you if there'd be any value to turning off your alarm - I'm of the opinion that if I have an alarm, it's there for a reason and turning it off defeats that reason.

As for having 3 alarm buzzers - I did it that way. If I'm brewing back-to-back, or using one of my PIDs for the timer (SWA-2451) I would like a separate buzzer to tell me if I hit temperature or hit time, and what vessel it's from. If you're only doing one activity at a time and not using a timer, then one buzzer would probably make sense.

One consideration is an LED to indicate when the element is on. It's not required, and the PID should have a small indicator light, but it could be helpful for telling quickly which vessel is heating and which isn't, or for seeing how often your element has to fire to maintain a certian temperature. You'd need one for each element, wired to the contactor output in line with the receptacle.

 
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:42 PM   #52
skepace
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I'll switch to the SWA-2451 and remove the resent buttons for the PIDs. I like having an alarm for each PID.

One thing, the SWA-2451 does not have an SSR built into it, right? So I would need an SSR for each one.

The green LED on my controller is to tell me which element is on. Would I need a separate switch as well??

 
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:44 PM   #53
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Old 11-27-2012, 06:01 PM   #54
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I may not have been clear - the SWA-2451 has an OPTION for a reset button. As in, if you want to reset the timer on the 2451, you can use a reset button. The SYL2352 doesn't have anything to 'reset' so having a button does you no good. Sorry to not be clear on that.

None of the PIDs come with SSRs built in. You need one SSR for every element you plan to turn on / off.

If your green lights are just LED indicators, how do you turn one element on or off? Say you only want to be heating the BK and cleaning the HLT - how are you going to turn off the power to the HLT element?

 
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:06 PM   #55
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Wouldn't the PIDs control the power to the element?

 
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:30 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skepace View Post
Wouldn't the PIDs control the power to the element?
The PID doesn't generate enough current to run the element, so it controls an SSR that does. The contactor between the SSR and the element allows you to be sure that the element is truly off when you want it to be, given that SSRs can leak and can fail closed.

SSRs and contactors are both relays. The SSR is capable of frequent switching, but has the leakage and fail closed issues. The contactor is not made to switch as fequently as the PID would have it do, but a normally open contactor will be open when you expect it to be. Together they give you what you want, PID control over the element, and a manual switch so you can make sure the element is off when you want it to be.

 
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:39 PM   #57
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Together they give you what you want, PID control over the element, and a manual switch so you can make sure the element is off when you want it to be.
This. Both do essentially the same thing (use a small current to open or close a switch) but they do it in different ways, and work best in tandem. Confusing yet?

 
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Old 11-27-2012, 08:27 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadNewsBrewery View Post
This. Both do essentially the same thing (use a small current to open or close a switch) but they do it in different ways, and work best in tandem. Confusing yet?
I thought I was understanding everything, now I am really confused.

 
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Old 11-27-2012, 08:44 PM   #59
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So what kind of switch would I need to be able to heat water to clean with in the HLT while the BK element is going? Or would I not have enough amps to do this?

 
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:41 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skepace View Post
So what kind of switch would I need to be able to heat water to clean with in the HLT while the BK element is going? Or would I not have enough amps to do this?
What did you decide to do for amperage? I believe earlier in the thread you said you had 30amp 220V. If that's the case, you can only run one 5500W element at a time. If you do upgrade to 50 or 60amp service, you have more options for running elements simultaneously.

I really suggest you read through and understand Kal's build at www.theelectricbrewery.com. Even if you want to go in a different direction, that is an invaluable resource for understanding how these components work, and will put you in a much better position to build a safe and effective control panel.

 
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