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Old 11-29-2012, 02:33 AM   #11
foos-n-brew
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Nov 2011
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Hey HappyLoon - nice Foos table! From the looks of the rubber bands on the men it looks like you even practice.

Are you in MN by any chance?

Nice brewery too. That's what I hope to end up with.



 
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Old 11-29-2012, 03:04 AM   #12
Stephonovich
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Jun 2011
Goose Creek, SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyLoon View Post
Hey Kal,

Currently we only have a 220v outlet there, but I think it's a 30amp connection. Is it as simple as swapping it out for a 240v if the amperage is high enough?

To be honest none of us are that knowledgeable about the wiring, we had someone else do it. We did notice everything takes a bit longer to work though, especially the pumps. Would that be the reason?

I also noticed the amazon link on your site is to a 250v outlet. I'm guessing 250v is Ok?
The outlet rating is only that, what it's rated to handle as a maximum. Your household voltage is dependent on many things, mostly due to the load on your local substation. What you get is what you get.


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Old 11-29-2012, 03:20 AM   #13
cdubbaya
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Oct 2010
Bloomington, MN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foos-n-brew
Hey HappyLoon - nice Foos table! From the looks of the rubber bands on the men it looks like you even practice.

Are you in MN by any chance?

Nice brewery too. That's what I hope to end up with.
Haha yeah we play quite a bit, those rubber bands are holding a few guys together, they still have lots of punch left! And yes we're in Minneapolis.
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Old 11-29-2012, 03:23 AM   #14
cdubbaya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephonovich

The outlet rating is only that, what it's rated to handle as a maximum. Your household voltage is dependent on many things, mostly due to the load on your local substation. What you get is what you get.
Thanks for the response. Pardon my ignorance, but is there any way to draw more power from the outlet? It's actually a commercial building so there are many things drawing power. Not sure if that matters or not, but we would love to pull closer to 230-235v with a 240v outlet.
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Old 11-29-2012, 03:52 AM   #15
foos-n-brew
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Nov 2011
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HappyLoon - do you ever go to Mort's or high Five (used to be Primetime) and play Foos? Check out minnesotafoosball.com sometime. A few of us are home brewers too. I'm gatekeeper on that site.

Happy brewing!

 
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Old 11-29-2012, 04:13 AM   #16
cdubbaya
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Oct 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foos-n-brew
HappyLoon - do you ever go to Mort's or high Five (used to be Primetime) and play Foos? Check out minnesotafoosball.com sometime. A few of us are home brewers too. I'm gatekeeper on that site.

Happy brewing!
I've been to morts once with some coworkers, it's a sweet place, but too tough for my level of skill. I'll check out the site, I was wondering where all the Minnesota foosers are. In North Dakota, where I went I school, everyone played it seemed.
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Old 11-29-2012, 03:07 PM   #17
kal
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220V is odd. It's not usually available in the US. Are you running this in some sort of commercial environment where 208V 3-phase was available and they wired up one phase? That would make sense and explain why your pictures show 208-211V on the

When connected to two phases of a 208V 3-phase system, the heating element (designed for single phase 240V) will only produce 75% of its rated heating effect. So your 5500W elements are in effect behaving like 4125W elements. Everything will work fine, it'll just take longer to heat.

I'm not sure why you mean by the pumps taking longer. If you actually have 208V 3-phase power there and the outlet was wired correctly, he/she should have have wired it such as to provide 120V between one of the phases and neutral. This'll power the pump outlets on the control panel. So the pumps should be getting 120V. You can have them verify this with a multimeter placed on the pump receptacle.

I's typically ok to use an outlet (or any electronic device) that is rated to carry higher voltage or current than what you intend to use. The outlets rated to 250V can be used to carry voltages up to 250V. It doesn't have to be 250V.

Kal

 
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Old 11-29-2012, 07:12 PM   #18
cdubbaya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kal View Post
220V is odd. It's not usually available in the US. Are you running this in some sort of commercial environment where 208V 3-phase was available and they wired up one phase? That would make sense and explain why your pictures show 208-211V on the

When connected to two phases of a 208V 3-phase system, the heating element (designed for single phase 240V) will only produce 75% of its rated heating effect. So your 5500W elements are in effect behaving like 4125W elements. Everything will work fine, it'll just take longer to heat.

I'm not sure why you mean by the pumps taking longer. If you actually have 208V 3-phase power there and the outlet was wired correctly, he/she should have have wired it such as to provide 120V between one of the phases and neutral. This'll power the pump outlets on the control panel. So the pumps should be getting 120V. You can have them verify this with a multimeter placed on the pump receptacle.

I's typically ok to use an outlet (or any electronic device) that is rated to carry higher voltage or current than what you intend to use. The outlets rated to 250V can be used to carry voltages up to 250V. It doesn't have to be 250V.

Kal
I'm afraid my ignorance about electrical work is on display here. I just looked, and we do have a 250v/30A outlet wired in, and the fuse is 30A at the breaker as well. It appears to be the same outlet listed in your website.

I guess I'm not sure why the voltage is low, could it be we just don't have enough power to the building?
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Old 11-29-2012, 07:33 PM   #19
kal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyLoon View Post
I guess I'm not sure why the voltage is low, could it be we just don't have enough power to the building?
Likely not. While voltage can fluctuate slightly (for example it dips a bit in the summer during the day when everyone runs their A/C units), normally it's only slight. A dip from 240 down to 208 is enormous, into the danger zone for many devices, and would not be wanted or allowed under normal circumstances by any power company. That would be 104V on a 120V line and could damage equipment.

What sort of building is it? Is this s private home or a commercial/industrial location? Homes never have 3-phase 208V power. Commercial/industrial locations sometimes have 3-phase 208V power available to them.

Kal

 
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Old 11-29-2012, 08:18 PM   #20
cdubbaya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kal View Post
What sort of building is it? Is this s private home or a commercial/industrial location? Homes never have 3-phase 208V power. Commercial/industrial locations sometimes have 3-phase 208V power available to them.
Kal
It is a commercial building, but I don't have knowledge of the electrical system. I'll have to talk to the building owner about that.

Is the solution then to wire up the 3-phase 208V, or is that not an option?


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