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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Best/Safest Method of installing an Element
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Old 11-12-2012, 07:42 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by lschiavo

Your seal then is ultimately inside your box. Hence the welding.
Correct, but I am able to replace the element quickly an have no concerns around leakage. I was able to torque the element/ o ring/ box assembly down really tight using a socket and breaker bar. There is no chance on leakage as this is really tight.

How tight is yours if you are spinning the welded element and box around to orient it in the proper direction when done? These are straight threaded and rely on a tight o ring seal...


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Old 11-12-2012, 07:49 PM   #22
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I have the element going thru the kettle wall, then silicone o-ring, then grooved locknut (BargainFittings kit). On the outside I have the housing covered with PVC junction boxes on the HLT, JB Epoxied to the housing and silicone over the outside in case of spillage over the side-wall. My seal is outside the junction box, but I also sealed the box from anything that comes from the outside.


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Old 11-12-2012, 08:00 PM   #23
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I use these and couldn't be happier! But I have tri clover ferrules welded into my kettle.

http://www.brewershardware.com/TC15F10NPSCOV.html
Gotta love a little CYA!

Warnings!!!

All connections should be made be a qualified electrician.
There is no guarantee that this adapter will make your connections any safer.
We are not electricians or electrical engineers! Use this fitting entirely at your own risk.
Improperly wired electrical circuits can and will KILL you.
If you have the slightest uncertainties in using this fitting, please return it for a full refund including original shipping cost.
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:00 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 501irishred

Gotta love a little CYA!

Warnings!!!

All connections should be made be a qualified electrician.
There is no guarantee that this adapter will make your connections any safer.
We are not electricians or electrical engineers! Use this fitting entirely at your own risk.
Improperly wired electrical circuits can and will KILL you.
If you have the slightest uncertainties in using this fitting, please return it for a full refund including original shipping cost.
Thank god I'm a journeyman wireman! Or else my house would have burned down.
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:43 PM   #25
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I would have like to have been a fly on the wall during that product meeting. "OK team, when someone burns down there house, how can we claim NO responsibility?" Reminds me of first couple high voltage classes; If you don't xxxx, you will be killed; If you do xxxx, you will be killed... repeat 147 times......
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Old 11-13-2012, 12:20 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 501irishred
I would have like to have been a fly on the wall during that product meeting. "OK team, when someone burns down there house, how can we claim NO responsibility?" Reminds me of first couple high voltage classes; If you don't xxxx, you will be killed; If you do xxxx, you will be killed... repeat 147 times......
Ok class this is an instructional video on the effects of arc flash and the human body.
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Old 11-13-2012, 02:10 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Dert View Post
Correct, but I am able to replace the element quickly an have no concerns around leakage. I was able to torque the element/ o ring/ box assembly down really tight using a socket and breaker bar. There is no chance on leakage as this is really tight.

How tight is yours if you are spinning the welded element and box around to orient it in the proper direction when done? These are straight threaded and rely on a tight o ring seal...
I am not saying yours will leak. I am just trying to point out the difference between the methods.

I used the gaskets that came with the elements and just hand tightened until they were oriented as I wanted. Not a leak yet on three elements. I am not positive that they won't leak like you are but I am positive that if they do, they will not leak into the box.
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Old 11-13-2012, 03:21 AM   #28
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True, but if mine does leak into the box, I doubt it will leak out as everything is gasketed on the NEMA4 box. Most probably, it would trip the gfci...

I do not like the JB weld design, relying on a chemical bond or the PVC cap relying on friction for safe coverage of the exposed wires. I personally like a mechanical bond to the element metal base- not just the wires or via an epoxied up box.

I really don't think leakage is a primary concern after one gets the element installed. More of a concern for me is the protection of the exposed terminals after years of use (and abuse)- heating/ cooling, cleaning, jostling around, etc...


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