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Old 11-07-2012, 08:57 PM   #1
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Default Everwood Avenue Brewery Build

Hi Everyone,

Well, after careful consideration and an irrational need to always to building and improving my system, I've decided to go electric. But first...

I've been brewing for about 12 years, seriously for about 3 and AG for the last 2. About 6 months ago I moved from stove-top 5 gallon to a 10 gallon BK / cooler MTL. One thing lead to another and here I am, upgrading my system to a Brutus 10e style system. I've almost acquired everything I need, I've got everything for the mechanical side of the build, just waiting on a few electrical details.

I'm going to do a Kal inspired control box, as most of the ones I've seen are, and a 2X 4500W single tier, 3 vessel system. I will eventually move into a HERMS system, but if I want to be brewing on this new electric system by Xmas (my goal), I'll need to build in stages (due to the lack of available financing from SWMBO). So for now, I'm simply going to insulate my MLT keg with Roxul for heat retention and see how it goes. I've always got my cooler MLT to fall back on if the insulation is not sufficient. I've got 2 50L Euro Sankes for my HLT and MLT and a 58L Sanke for my BK. I'll be cutting the bottoms and using tri-clover fittings for the drains.

So, last night I decided to go ahead and start the control panel (mostly figuring out design). I'm still working on the wiring diagram and I very much open to suggestions, but I'm not in a rush or completely set on the design (until I cut the holes in the control panel!).

Here's what I have to start with:



And here's the layout for the control panel:



So I'd appreciate any thoughts, comments, and pointers moving forward. I've learned a lot from spending far too much time reading this forum, but I'm no expert. Thanks


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Old 11-09-2012, 11:20 AM   #2
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From what I can see in your pictures, you look like you've got most (if not all) the required parts. I'm sourcing the last few parts of my build and then it's off to the races. I'll post a build thread as well. Keep us up to date on your progress!
-Kevin


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Old 11-09-2012, 03:00 PM   #3
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Float switches - nice.
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Old 11-09-2012, 05:19 PM   #4
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I like it so much that that I would like a parts list for your panel
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Old 11-09-2012, 06:11 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WiseEyes View Post
I like it so much that that I would like a parts list for your panel
Thanks, I sourced most of it from eBay, Auber Instruments or Automation Direct. I was planning on posting the parts list after I get the wiring dealt with.
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On-Tap: Uncommonly Strange Wit-ESB, Blackberry Wheat, Nut Brown, Tankhouse Clone, Root Beer
Un-tapped Kegs: Ginger Beer, 2X Oatmeal Stout
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Old 11-09-2012, 06:15 PM   #6
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And that brings me to....the wiring diagram!

I have a new respect for P-J and all of you who do you own diagrams, this thing took way longer then I expected, not an unreasonable amount of time, but more then an hour (or 3!).

Please have a look at this and make any comments. It's pretty standard wiring, I went with a SSR/Contactor combo for the elements and illuminated toggle switches for the alarms and pumps.

One question - when I do the wattage calculation for the resistor for the e-stop, I get 7.2W of heat dissipated, yet everyone uses 2 x 1W resistors. What am I missing?

Critique Away!

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On-Tap: Uncommonly Strange Wit-ESB, Blackberry Wheat, Nut Brown, Tankhouse Clone, Root Beer
Un-tapped Kegs: Ginger Beer, 2X Oatmeal Stout
Barrel Aging: Scotch Barrel RIS, Rum Barrel WW

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Old 11-09-2012, 06:56 PM   #7
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Why do you have the float switch before the contactor? You'll have to run a line all the way from the panel to the kettle, then all the way back to the panel for the contactor, then all the way back again for the switch. If the float switch can handle the full amperage (and this may be why you did it your way) that is pulled by the coils, have the float switch be wired as part of your element and not part of your contactor...

-Kevin
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Old 11-09-2012, 06:57 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stlbeer View Post
Float switches - nice.
Yup, saw that on here and thought it was a great idea. Great way to prevent a dry start.
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On-Tap: Uncommonly Strange Wit-ESB, Blackberry Wheat, Nut Brown, Tankhouse Clone, Root Beer
Un-tapped Kegs: Ginger Beer, 2X Oatmeal Stout
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Old 11-09-2012, 07:02 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadNewsBrewery View Post
Why do you have the float switch before the contactor? You'll have to run a line all the way from the panel to the kettle, then all the way back to the panel for the contactor, then all the way back again for the switch. If the float switch can handle the full amperage (and this may be why you did it your way) that is pulled by the coils, have the float switch be wired as part of your element and not part of your contactor...

-Kevin
Good point. However you are correct and the amperage rating is not sufficient to be put inline with the element, the max is 1.5A. I also picked up some panel-mount 2-pin connectors for the float switches so once installed it'll be fairly easy. I am making my stand from uni-strut so I'll be running all the wiring through the stand itself, so I'm not too concerned by the extra cables.
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On-Tap: Uncommonly Strange Wit-ESB, Blackberry Wheat, Nut Brown, Tankhouse Clone, Root Beer
Un-tapped Kegs: Ginger Beer, 2X Oatmeal Stout
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Old 11-09-2012, 07:18 PM   #10
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Well then... in that case, I find no obvious issue with your design! I wonder if there'd be a way around it, like mounting your contactor to the kettle and running a short jumper from one of the hots through the float switch and back to the coil on the contactor. You'd have to put it in a 2 or 4 gang junction box and find a palce to mount it, so you're adding extra equipment vs. extra wiring...

Keep it up!
-Kevin


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