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Old 11-01-2012, 06:20 PM   #1
slakwhere
 
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I just switched to electric and my ic doesnt fit in my keggle as well with the element. I want to switch to a cfc. Bobby's instructions in the wiki call for a 25' section of copper but i only see 20' and 50' at home depot. Will 50' be a problem? Or will it just chill faster and with less water pressure from the hose required?

50' 3/8 copper is still way less than the northern brewer all copper setup so i am not worried about price... but if i can get away with making 2 cfc and selling one that would be kinda awesome too

 
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Old 11-01-2012, 06:33 PM   #2
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Check that 50' coil's wall thickness. IME the longer coils have thicker walls, making it MUCH harder to bend/form.

Personally, I'm extremely happy with my Duda Diesel plate chiller. IF you use a larger ID hose to feed it, it chills faster. I would imagine you'd encounter the same thing with a CFC. So, use the largest ID hose for the CFC and feed it with a large ID hose. I'm using a 3/4" ID hose to feed mine. BTW, there's also a chart (beer wort chart) on the DD site about flow rate of the chill water, and wort, and how long it takes to chill the wort (10 gallon batch size for reference on the chart). Of course, that's for their plate chillers, so I don't know how it correlates to CFC's...
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Old 11-01-2012, 06:39 PM   #3
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The only thing I have heard/read about using 50' is that it is hard to push the 50' all the way through.
That being said, you may be able to put an electricians snake in the hose and then PULL the 50' of copper through the hose. Make sure to fill the water hose with soapy water first! That surfactant will help the copper slide through much easier.

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Old 11-01-2012, 07:35 PM   #4
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Goldie, i have heard too many horror stories about trub/proteins to be interested in a plate chiller, i'd prefer not to start that debate.

Huaco, i will for sure lube the hose before starting, and i may have to see if my fish tape is long enough to do the pull method.

i think i'm going to try for all 50' since i have the materials. if i can't make it all 50' i can always cut the hose and the copper and make 2 25' cfc's.

 
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:45 PM   #5
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Couldn't you put some keg lube on the copper to help it slide through?
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:54 PM   #6
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On a 50' 3/8" line you are going to have noticeably slower throughput due to friction. I only mention this because I made a standard 25' CFC and used a pump with it. I recirc'd boiling wort to sterilize. The output was OK, but not enough to whirpool the wort. It worked amazingly well going straight into the fermenter however. So it depends on how you want to cool with it. Some recirc it right back into the kettle to chill the entire wort the same, others shoot it right into the fermenter. My thoughts, after making one (I am back to using a souped up IC now) was that if I remade it I would look into using 3/4" rubber hose and 1/2" copper line. I would not increase the length like you are saying, I would consider going up in diameter.

I stress that I have not done this and do not know if the less flexible copper would be an issue.

 
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:06 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteEagle1 View Post
Couldn't you put some keg lube on the copper to help it slide through?
bobby recommends soapy water... keg lube should work about the same.

 
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:08 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbrewski View Post
I recirc'd boiling wort to sterilize. The output was OK, but not enough to whirpool the wort. It worked amazingly well going straight into the fermenter however. So it depends on how you want to cool with it. Some recirc it right back into the kettle to chill the entire wort the same, others shoot it right into the fermenter.
i think i am looking to go right from the keggle into the fermenter as long as there's enough staying power. don't really need to recirc... i think the plan is to use my whirlpooling wand to get a whirlpool going, then drop the trub from the bottom drain (like fermenting in a conical) then sending the rest right into the fermenter.

if i need a better temp drop i can recirc after dumping the trub and not have to worry about generating a whirlpool.

 
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Old 11-02-2012, 01:10 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slakwhere View Post
Goldie, i have heard too many horror stories about trub/proteins to be interested in a plate chiller, i'd prefer not to start that debate.
No debate needed. IF you use your brain, the 'horror stories' you heard are non-existent. I use a hop spider for my brews (my own creation of course, all stainless except for the nylon mesh bag). I sanitize (not sure if it can be classified as sterilized at only ~212F) via a recirculation of boiling hot wort (no chill water going through it). With my current Duda Diesel chiller, I don't get anything left behind. Of course, I DO backflush the chiller right after using it, and then let it fully drain. I could also pump [hot] PBW solution through it if needed.

IMO, unless you get a hose that is 100% safe at boiling temperatures, you'll not want to recirculate boiling hot wort through a CFC. Unless you make a CFC that uses stainless tubing around the copper.

BTW, I always have the option of baking my plate chiller. Can you do that with your [rubber hose wrapped] CFC??

For the record, I did think about getting/making a CFC before going with a plate chiller. But, I was able to watch someone use one before I did. With all he went through to use it, I didn't want to go near it. He was also getting the wort out as a trickle, in order to get it to chill to pitch temps (single pass).
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Old 11-02-2012, 01:19 AM   #10
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wow, you missed the part about not wanting to get into a cfc vs plate chiller debate.

 
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