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Old 11-01-2012, 02:39 AM   #21
jonmohno
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Nov 2010
Corn, High Fructose Corn Fortress, IA
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I dont get it your not going to know **** till they carb up and are condtioned and really ready to be consumed. Am I missing something here?. I apologize if I did. You cant judge your beer until then,pretty much period.

 
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Old 11-01-2012, 02:44 AM   #22
Effingbeer
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Oct 2011
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Also, 1.018 doesn't seem quite dry enough. I think you are missing out on the last 10% or so of attenuation due to your temp fluctuation. You don't want to let the temp drop after the first few days. If anything, it should start cool and gradually rise. Going from 68 to 63 can be a signal to your little friends to go nighty night. I usually try to slosh around the carboy a bit to push out excess CO2 and rouse the yeast a bit a couple times after high krausen. If you could use a tank of O2 to oxygenate prior to pitching, that would help too.

 
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Old 11-01-2012, 02:47 AM   #23
chumpsteak
 
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May 2011
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Why are you judging beers that aren't carbed? Most of the IPA's I make taste like crap until they are on the gas for 2-3 weeks and even then don't fully stabilize for 4-5 weeks in the keg. I have had IPAs that were good one week after carbed and then bad the next and then great the next. Some people are more sensitive to bitterness and with IPAs I really think they change a lot in the first few weeks of being carbed.

I've dumped IPAs that I thought were bad only to have the second 5 gallons of the same beer come out excellent after 2 more weeks on CO2.

I'm just saying, quit tasting your beers until they are carbed for a while. Give it a chance to do it's thing before you give up on it.
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Old 11-01-2012, 02:48 AM   #24
themack22
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Dec 2011
Raleigh, North Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bd2xu View Post
Hard to say on the color, was there any scorching in your pot? I've started brewing fairly recently (July) but the hobby has already become a sickness. I've got 9 batches under my belt and the last two all grain. A few things to consider to really improve your beer.

1. Full wort boil

2. Ferm temp. This is critical. Measure the temp of the wort by the tape strip thermo. I use a deep freeze with a controller and tape the thermostat to the bucket and type a towel over it to insulate. This works great, I can keep the temp of the bucket in the mid 60s while the air in the freezer could be 8 degrees lower. Really shows the exothermic process of fermentation. If no freezer or fridge use a swamp cooler, plenty of info on this site on them. My first two batches were IPA and rye pale ale, and I fermented in the basement at 72. But now I realize the temp in the primary was prob closer to 80 during the main fermentation... Too hot!!

3. Excellent sanitation. I switched to star San and I think it is so much better because you don't have to rinse or dry and only takes 39 secs. I keep a spray bottle of it handy.

4. Wort chiller to chill down quickly after the boil.
5. Good aeration. I just shake the bucket but will prob upgrade to o2 soon.
6. Yeast starter if using liquid. Follow calcs on yeastcalc.com.

These have all made HUGE diff from my first two batches where I just bought the kit and followed the instructions.

Last one is patience. Follow you procedures and have faith. I rarely even taste my beer until bottle time and usually don't test gravity until about three weeks in the fermenter. I also have started skipping the secondary stage for most beers and even dry hopping in the primary. My next big step is kegging and from what I've read dry hopping in the keg is an awesome way to get that aroma and taste for us hopheads!

I am overwhelmed now.

I do all of the above, minus the full wort boil. My buddy at work keeps harping on that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Effingbeer View Post
Also, 1.018 doesn't seem quite dry enough. I think you are missing out on the last 10% or so of attenuation due to your temp fluctuation. You don't want to let the temp drop after the first few days. If anything, it should start cool and gradually rise. Going from 68 to 63 can be a signal to your little friends to go nighty night. I usually try to slosh around the carboy a bit to push out excess CO2 and rouse the yeast a bit a couple times after high krausen. If you could use a tank of O2 to oxygenate prior to pitching, that would help too.

Wow, the yeast is so finnicky. I have made beers that were under-attenuated because of too high temps, and now it seems the same has happened by too low of a temp.

 
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Old 11-01-2012, 03:07 AM   #25
Ogri
 
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Sep 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by themack22 View Post
Let's talk about the first one.

OG: 1.068
FG: 1.018

10/14 - brew day
10/20 - rack to secondary, dry hop
10/21 - 1.018
10/30 - beer tastes good
10/31 - beer has taken a less hop flavor and is more sweet

It's been at a good temp. High 60's, but closer to 70. There have been a few nights where it may have gotten down to the low 60's, but that was after the first few days of violent fermentation.

Definitely tasting them before they are carbed. They were flat, but damn delicious. Something has gone awry in the past 2 days.
Have you ever tried just leaving your brew in the primary for the entire three weeks, rather than racking to secondary??? You can dry hop in your primary with no worries.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Effingbeer
Also, 1.018 doesn't seem quite dry enough. I think you are missing out on the last 10% or so of attenuation due to your temp fluctuation. You don't want to let the temp drop after the first few days. If anything, it should start cool and gradually rise. Going from 68 to 63 can be a signal to your little friends to go nighty night. I usually try to slosh around the carboy a bit to push out excess CO2 and rouse the yeast a bit a couple times after high krausen.
/\ /\ /\ /\ /\
This.

I get the feeling that if you allow a bit more time to let your brews sort themselves out you'll be drinking much better tasting beer.

 
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Old 11-01-2012, 03:11 AM   #26
bovineblitz
 
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Mar 2010
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The one on the right looks more like Two-Hearted to me.

Both those beers are still green. They're not ready to be judged yet.

Also, 6 days in primary is a very short time, what's the reasoning behind that?

Lastly, whatever you ate during the day could easily affect your impression of the beers.

 
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Old 11-01-2012, 04:08 AM   #27
jsguitar
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May 2011
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To the op: When you say it tasted like crap the next day, can you describe how it tasted different?

The only thing in the process that I've experienced do anything similar is when I accidentally pumped a bunch of air through my beer while transferring to secondary with my auto siphon. The oxidation didn't show up until weeks later after the bottles had carbed and it was still really good for a couple of weeks before that. So, I doubt it's that.

Also, even if you did infect it (very unlikely) it would take quite a while to change the flavor.

I agree with the others that it will most likely be delicious after all is said and done.

 
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