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Old 11-01-2012, 01:56 AM   #11
themack22
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Dec 2011
Raleigh, North Carolina
Posts: 103

Quote:
Originally Posted by neosapien View Post
insanely jealous. save some for the rest of us that can't get it locally!
My bad! I live in NC, far away from K-ZOO and we have this beer on tap at every bar. I assumed it was like that everywhere.

Quote:
Originally Posted by iambeer View Post
Unless you are experimenting, don't taste your beer until it's done fermenting and ready to rack. And again once it's properly carbonated. If your IPA is 1.060 or more, it might need to mellow.
I wish I was experimenting. Been doing it for a year and only had a few that were some what drinkable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan View Post
Ahh. Okay. Never had it before was just judging the age by the clarity. The one on the right just look clearer.
I hear ya. The one on the left is a classic pale ale color, the right seems like an Octoberfest. IMO



 
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Old 11-01-2012, 01:59 AM   #12
themack22
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Dec 2011
Raleigh, North Carolina
Posts: 103

Sorry for the freakout. I am just at my wits end with homebrewing. I feel like I know everything about the basics of the extract process. My fianceť and friends will vouch for how much I have read about homebrewing over the past year. I know I am not supposed to be a pro by now, and maybe I am just a snob, but how hard is it to make a decent beer?

My fianceť clearly saw I was depressed, asked me about it, kissed my cheek and left me here on the computer.

Dudes...why is this happening?!?



 
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Old 11-01-2012, 02:03 AM   #13
neosapien
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Mar 2012
Dallas, TX
Posts: 712
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because you have high expectations. this is not a bad thing

i felt that way after my first infection (after previous 2 were "meh" beers at best). take it down a notch, do a nice simple single infusion SMaSH brew?

that's what i did. the beer that came out of that one was decent enough to raise my spirits about things.

 
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Old 11-01-2012, 02:12 AM   #14
Effingbeer
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Oct 2011
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My guess is the dry hop. Most kits give generic instructions. Seems you have a classic case of hop aroma an flavor dropping out with the remaining yeast. Hop oils stick to yeasties and other bugs, thats what gives them their preservative qualities. I personally will rack it, wait for it to clear. Then the last 5-ish days just prior to bottling do the dry hop. I taste on day 5, if the profile is where I want it, bottle. After 5-7 days, in the carboy, hops start to fall off. Keep in mind that Bells sells a ton of this beer. Even in NC what you get is probably a month old at most. If you could keep a bottle for a few months, it will probly lack the pizzazz we all love.

 
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Old 11-01-2012, 02:12 AM   #15
themack22
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Dec 2011
Raleigh, North Carolina
Posts: 103

Quote:
Originally Posted by neosapien View Post
because you have high expectations. this is not a bad thing
I hope so. I'd for an accomplised homebrewer come in and say "that's not too bad for a year of practice" or tell me "Oh, that tastes like you did x, y and z wrong."

 
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Old 11-01-2012, 02:13 AM   #16
themack22
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Dec 2011
Raleigh, North Carolina
Posts: 103

Quote:
Originally Posted by Effingbeer View Post
My guess is the dry hop. Most kits give generic instructions. Seems you have a classic case of hop aroma an flavor dropping out with the remaining yeast. Hop oils stick to yeasties and other bugs, thats what gives them their preservative qualities. I personally will rack it, wait for it to clear. Then the last 5-ish days just prior to bottling do the dry hop. I taste on day 5, if the profile is where I want it, bottle. After 5-7 days, in the carboy, hops start to fall off. Keep in mind that Bells sells a ton of this beer. Even in NC what you get is probably a month old at most. If you could keep a bottle for a few months, it will probly lack the pizzazz we all love.
Word.

So what's the deal with the color? Clearly the darker one is way off.

 
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Old 11-01-2012, 02:20 AM   #17
jonmohno
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Nov 2010
Corn, High Fructose Corn Fortress, IA
Posts: 5,848
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So what temp? What yeast? Do you note everything? You really need more to tell, thats what may be lacking to help you. I mean your drinking them before they are even carbed? conditioned too? Serious lack of information here. Do you hydrate,aerate,refrigerate,contemplate?Maybe just your water.

 
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Old 11-01-2012, 02:28 AM   #18
themack22
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Dec 2011
Raleigh, North Carolina
Posts: 103

Let's talk about the first one.

OG: 1.068
FG: 1.018

10/14 - brew day
10/20 - rack to secondary, dry hop
10/21 - 1.018
10/30 - beer tastes good
10/31 - beer has taken a less hop flavor and is more sweet

It's been at a good temp. High 60's, but closer to 70. There have been a few nights where it may have gotten down to the low 60's, but that was after the first few days of violent fermentation.

Definitely tasting them before they are carbed. They were flat, but damn delicious. Something has gone awry in the past 2 days.

 
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Old 11-01-2012, 02:35 AM   #19
Effingbeer
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Oct 2011
Posts: 246
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Color is heavily tied to the boil and evaporation. Your boil does not need to be ridiculous. Just good movement from the bottom to the top. A lot of folks, including myself will try to move some of the extract toward the end of boil, if possible. With kits, I usually add LME at the beginning and DME at the end. All you gotta do is get the DME dissolved at those temps for a few minutes to sanitize it. This should help lower the "carmelization" effect and give you lighter color.
Like one post said, your pics may be the same color, when the light colored yeast falls out, it looks darker.

 
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Old 11-01-2012, 02:39 AM   #20
bd2xu
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Jul 2012
Atlanta, GA
Posts: 939
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Quote:
Originally Posted by themack22

Word.

So what's the deal with the color? Clearly the darker one is way off.
Hard to say on the color, was there any scorching in your pot? I've started brewing fairly recently (July) but the hobby has already become a sickness. I've got 9 batches under my belt and the last two all grain. A few things to consider to really improve your beer.

1. Full wort boil

2. Ferm temp. This is critical. Measure the temp of the wort by the tape strip thermo. I use a deep freeze with a controller and tape the thermostat to the bucket and type a towel over it to insulate. This works great, I can keep the temp of the bucket in the mid 60s while the air in the freezer could be 8 degrees lower. Really shows the exothermic process of fermentation. If no freezer or fridge use a swamp cooler, plenty of info on this site on them. My first two batches were IPA and rye pale ale, and I fermented in the basement at 72. But now I realize the temp in the primary was prob closer to 80 during the main fermentation... Too hot!!

3. Excellent sanitation. I switched to star San and I think it is so much better because you don't have to rinse or dry and only takes 39 secs. I keep a spray bottle of it handy.

4. Wort chiller to chill down quickly after the boil.
5. Good aeration. I just shake the bucket but will prob upgrade to o2 soon.
6. Yeast starter if using liquid. Follow calcs on yeastcalc.com.

These have all made HUGE diff from my first two batches where I just bought the kit and followed the instructions.

Last one is patience. Follow you procedures and have faith. I rarely even taste my beer until bottle time and usually don't test gravity until about three weeks in the fermenter. I also have started skipping the secondary stage for most beers and even dry hopping in the primary. My next big step is kegging and from what I've read dry hopping in the keg is an awesome way to get that aroma and taste for us hopheads!


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On Deck: Vienna Lager, Munich Dunkel
Primary: Czech Pils
Secondary:
On tap: Lefse Blonde, Tripel
Bottled: Wee Heavy, RIS - Bourbon/Oak aged, RIS - Port Wine/Oak aged

 
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