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Old 11-04-2012, 01:33 PM   #11
CaptMogul
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Dec 2010
Key West, FL
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I have been using a fish tank air pump with no problem but some say that OXY is better so yesterday I hooked my stone to my OXY regulator on my welding set. Looking to see if there is any difference in the fermention today



 
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Old 11-05-2012, 01:36 AM   #12
mthelm85
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Apr 2011
Yakima, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpeebs View Post
I had a friend tell me today that once your beer has been fermenting for about a week, you should crack it open and aerate it again to get the yeast active again. Any truth to this?
That's a bad idea......yeast just need the oxygen to multiply but they don't actually begin the fermentation process until they have used all of the oxygen up.....you want to make sure they multiply to the proper numbers BEFORE fermentation starts....if your friend is having to aerate his beer after it's been fermenting for a week it's because he's not starting with the right amount of yeast up front and his finished product isn't nearly as good as it could be if he were pitching the correct amount



 
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Old 11-05-2012, 01:59 AM   #13
tnsen
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Dec 2011
Muskegon, MI
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Hey capt....I have been thinking bout using a air pump as well...do you use a filter if some sort with a sanitizer in it?....I have been thinking about making a homemade filter with cotton balls soaked in starsan as a filter..maybe a 35mm film cup....or maybe just not worry bout it...

 
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Old 11-05-2012, 02:08 AM   #14
whoaru99
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Oct 2012
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There are filters for it that have very tight filtration. They're about $4 each at the brew stores. I suspect a cotton ball filter wouldn't have nearly the same micron rating and efficiency as one of the purpose filters.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/i...ry-filter.html
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Old 11-06-2012, 11:04 PM   #15
tnsen
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Dec 2011
Muskegon, MI
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Thankx 99..I dident know those were available, I learn something every time I visit this site...I really need to improve aeration...I almost went for the paint mixer idea but I dont want to scratch the inside of my bucket. I think the air pump idea is the way to go as I could use it in my carboy as well as bucket, with a racking cane to get it it the bottom of the carboy, I already have an air pump I use just for drying tubing and such.....chers....Tom

 
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Old 11-06-2012, 11:29 PM   #16
cheesehed007
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Sep 2012
Eau Claire, Wisconsin
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Maybe this is where I went wrong. I did my first brew 10 days ago. I didn't know to mix things up after I chilled everything down. Racked it to my carboy, took a SG reading and it read low. 1.026. Figured I was reading mostly water and pitched my yeast (s 05) didn't start fermenting till later the next day 24 hrs at least. Just took my first FG reading and it was 1.012. Target is to be 1.015-1.018. Took a little tast and it had a sour taste. I made a Brewers Best Imperial Blonde Ale. The color s dark, not a blonde.. Thoughts. Could not mixing it up good before I pitched course the low readings?? Thanks for any and all help. Cheers!

 
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Old 11-06-2012, 11:39 PM   #17
duboman
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Jul 2011
Glenview, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheesehed007
Maybe this is where I went wrong. I did my first brew 10 days ago. I didn't know to mix things up after I chilled everything down. Racked it to my carboy, took a SG reading and it read low. 1.026. Figured I was reading mostly water and pitched my yeast (s 05) didn't start fermenting till later the next day 24 hrs at least. Just took my first FG reading and it was 1.012. Target is to be 1.015-1.018. Took a little tast and it had a sour taste. I made a Brewers Best Imperial Blonde Ale. The color s dark, not a blonde.. Thoughts. Could not mixing it up good before I pitched course the low readings?? Thanks for any and all help. Cheers!
Not getting a good mix is typical in all extract beer so that is why your gravity reading was off.

Aeration is important because yeast need the O2 for the initial growth phase. This is why your fermentation was delayed.

As for sour, that is more a sign of infection than poor aeration, are you sure you taste sour and not something else? How did you sanitize everything and what product did you use?
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Old 11-06-2012, 11:39 PM   #18
NewBrewB
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Dec 2009
Pace, FL
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Any specific models of paint stirring drill attachments (that fit in a better bottle)?
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Old 11-07-2012, 12:00 AM   #19
cheesehed007
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Sep 2012
Eau Claire, Wisconsin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duboman

Not getting a good mix is typical in all extract beer so that is why your gravity reading was off.

Aeration is important because yeast need the O2 for the initial growth phase. This is why your fermentation was delayed.

As for sour, that is more a sign of infection than poor aeration, are you sure you taste sour and not something else? How did you sanitize everything and what product did you use?
I used "easy clean" it came with my starter kit from my LHBS. No not sure it's a true sour taste. It wasn't a pucker you face sour. Just not what I was expecting. I'll take another reading tomorrow and taste it again. Thanks for he help!

 
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Old 11-07-2012, 12:13 AM   #20
jlillie
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Jul 2012
Cape Coral, fl
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I bought a bait well aerater from West Marine for 15 bucks. I've used these before in my bait wells on teh boat for shrimp and i knew they will last forever on 2 D cell batteries. I Use it for 30 minutes prior to pitching every batch. Be warned, it will cause you to loose maybe pint or so of wort from bubbling out the top of the carboy. Never had a problem with the bubbling overspill with the bucket though.



 
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