time for the controller:
I laid mine out a little differently than many others I've seen here. it goes horizontal, with the 2-way switches going up (with a red LED) for manual fire, and down (with yellow LED) for PID control. My stand goes right-to-left for no other reason than that's how my cobbled together previous setup went.
the red rockers control the two pumps and I placed them on the box relative to where they are on the stand compared to the burners. I'm not a big fan of labels, so I'll probably just put two on the top for MT and HLT.
The other thing you don't see is a whole bunch of connectors. I had some multi-pin cables laying around and decided to go with a 15-pin d-sub connector at the control box.
I'd hoped to run the voltage for the PIDs over this cable as well (engineers at work showed me examples of up to 45v running over small gauge cable) but this idea came before realizing the auber PIDs required full 110v power. So my single-cable control box idea was gone - but 2 cables was better than 7 (including 2 full size pump plugs) so I went with that.
I picked up a hinged metal box at a local used electronics/gadget/stuffyou'dnevereverneedbutisreallyfreakingcool store. If there's one of those in your area - check it out. I got most of the little component pieces for the stand there and it was pretty inexpensive.
in the control box lives the 24vac transformer, the 2 PIDs, switches, LEDs etc. It's not really pretty but it's tied together via terminal strips. That just made it really easy to tie down the loose ends of the multi-pin cable.
The pumps both came with finished plugs on the end, and I didn't want to cut those off to wire them directly in so I picked up a couple of 24vac relays and use those to trigger the pumps.
The junction box on the brew stand has the double-plug for the pumps, the 2 relays, the main power switch/fuse (old computer power supply plug) and a single outlet on the main face which powers the control box.
I used a 4-pin CB microphone connector and combined the cables to both gas valves into one connector. I got the panel mounts for the RTD sensors and those are in the junction box as well.
Other than the PITA to source the pinout of the scrapped multi-pin cable, which really only took 20 minutes after I got going, the problem I ran into with the electronics was that the LEDs weren't passing the voltage on to the gas valves when wired in series. My 2-way switches were DPDT so I just wired the LEDs to the second pole and kept the 24vac direct to the valve or the PID separate from the LEDs. Other than that - the wiring was pretty straightforward.
I used 1/2" gas line to the valves, and 3/8" from the valve to the burner b/c that's the size that came with the Banjos. after converting the valves to LP (and finding the conversion spring after I thought I'd thrown it out and ordered new kits) and adjusting the intake pressure I got a pretty nice mostly orange flame. opening the air intake changed it entirely to blue, and in my boil test I was getting about a 5-degree increase every 90 seconds or so on 4 gallons of water.
I got a 1-30 psi regulator for the boil burner - but I think that's the one thing I'll change. The regulator orifice is 1/8" in and out, and there isn't as much control of the flame as I'd thought. Many folks have just used a regular valve and dialed back to reduce the flame. don't know if I'll go that route yet.
the entire burner rack is adjustable, and I found about 2.5" to work pretty well. the gas valves are mounted on L-brackets made out of 2" angle, and so they sit pretty deep. There actually isn't much more room I could drop the rack away from the burner and still be able to get the keggles in underneath. The windshields work well, but If I'm brewing on a windy day, I'll probably drop the flame a little bit with the yellow gas ball valves and raise the rack a little bit.
The pilot lights are screwed into a piece of stainless welded to the windshields. I didn't want to cut into the banjos.
remember those triangle wings from the first post? along with a bent stainless strap and a couple rubber grommets, they make the perfect fit for the plate chiller... and it's easy to get on and off for cleaning/sanitizing.
Other notes: the gas pipe isn't exactly flush with the front of the stand, and so it prevented the pump in/out from sitting horizontal. Didn't really bother me, but I did have to buy a couple more 304 elbows than I'd planned to.
I'd also spring for some locking wheels. I went with some 4" rollers from secasterco on ebay - but I didn't get the ones with the wheel locks because apparently I was asleep at the wheel. Think I'll be investigating some add-on locks in the future.
This was a really fun project. time consuming and spendy. The boil test went terrifically... I can't wait for the first brew day!