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Old 11-17-2012, 11:18 PM   #101
RScottyL
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Jun 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gifty74 View Post
Excel sheet with live links would not attach so had to do a screen shot. Full parts list to build what you see above. Total for my build so far is $142. Bummer is it makes sense to buy the 100-pack of strut nuts even though you only need like 40. Bolts are super cheap for that size and qty. The beauty is you can make the main beams and/or the height anything you want. And if it's not what you like, just buy another stick of strut for $14 and cut some new length. Unbolt the old and bolt in the new.
Can you also post the exact lengths that you cut them to?

I see three different sizes that you used!

This looks perfect and would love to build one exactly like that!

 
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Old 11-18-2012, 01:38 AM   #102
gifty74
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Mar 2009
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Originally Posted by b-boy View Post
Can you tell me about the regulator? Is that a special regulator required for thos burners?

I always thought a regulator wasn't required for NG, because there is alredy one on the meter.
Good question. I searched a while for info on this too. Not a whole lot of guys are using NG, but I did contact one member and he said even though the house NG is regulated, you still need one at the stand, to drop it into the range that works best for those burners. I also read a lot of places that you don't need one and they are a waste. That being said I got the one recommended HERE and hooked it up to test (for $33). The point of it is so you can get a healthy (blue) flame even when those 10-tip burners are throttled down real low. I hooked it up and it did seem to allow me to get the blue flame at a lower flow rate when I throttled it down with the ball valve, but not a huge difference. On my setup it's not going to matter much though because I'm using a Honeywell 8200 valve for my direct fired MT burner, and that has a nice built-in regulator with precise control. My BK/HLT burner is going to run at full steam so I won't really need to regulate that. It cranks majorly when the ball valve is wide open. Tons of heat with solid blue flames. I've read these burners like to run at wide open. The venturi is setup to pull in air at a certain flow rate so when you drop below that you're dropping below it's intended use. You are to put the regulator before the ball valve, so you always have the pressure regulated, then you use the ball valve to throttle the flow to set the flame height. I'd say it's not a bad thing to try if you have problems getting a good flame at low throttle setting. Otherwise these burners run great off my house NG, nothing in line.

 
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Old 11-18-2012, 01:51 AM   #103
gifty74
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Mar 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RScottyL View Post
Can you also post the exact lengths that you cut them to?

I see three different sizes that you used!

This looks perfect and would love to build one exactly like that!
Yeah, I went with just two stations for a few reasons. One, I don't see a need to have flame control (ie. a ASCO or Honeywell or other valve to turn heat on/off) on the HLT. So, I heat up mash water on the wide open burner side, and then transfer to the MT for mash. Recirc and measure temp with an Auber PID and RTD temp probe T'd into the inlet of my pump (awesome way to set it up btw). After mash I get the BK close by on floor and pump first runnings into it. While that was going on my sparge water was heating up so I pump that in to the MT (BK still on the ground) and after the sparge water is in I just take the HLT off the wide open burner station and put the BK up in that same spot. Cuts down on the size & weight, and I really don't need a 3rd burner using this setup. Hence 2 stations.

I wanted 4" between pots (which is a nice distance I think, original Brutus 10 with 2" is too close imho) so I cut the 4 main sticks at 36". Then I wanted the stand just about keg height, and didn't plan to put it on wheels, so with the strut being 1.625" in height, that made the vertical supports 20.75" x 6. With the strut stacked on top and bottom of that height (so the verticals are actually supporting the main beams) it puts the height at exactly 24". I found that the strut is so sturdy going just 36" in length I didn't really need vertical support in the middle of the beam, so I have a few extras of those. I put one on the front to mount the pump, but it doesn't do much supporting. At 24" just a touch above the top edge of a keg/keggle. Then the horizontal keggle supports are 12.75" x 7.

 
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Old 11-18-2012, 05:49 AM   #104
b-boy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gifty74

Good question. I searched a while for info on this too. Not a whole lot of guys are using NG, but I did contact one member and he said even though the house NG is regulated, you still need one at the stand, to drop it into the range that works best for those burners. I also read a lot of places that you don't need one and they are a waste. That being said I got the one recommended HERE and hooked it up to test (for $33). The point of it is so you can get a healthy (blue) flame even when those 10-tip burners are throttled down real low. I hooked it up and it did seem to allow me to get the blue flame at a lower flow rate when I throttled it down with the ball valve, but not a huge difference. On my setup it's not going to matter much though because I'm using a Honeywell 8200 valve for my direct fired MT burner, and that has a nice built-in regulator with precise control. My BK/HLT burner is going to run at full steam so I won't really need to regulate that. It cranks majorly when the ball valve is wide open. Tons of heat with solid blue flames. I've read these burners like to run at wide open. The venturi is setup to pull in air at a certain flow rate so when you drop below that you're dropping below it's intended use. You are to put the regulator before the ball valve, so you always have the pressure regulated, then you use the ball valve to throttle the flow to set the flame height. I'd say it's not a bad thing to try if you have problems getting a good flame at low throttle setting. Otherwise these burners run great off my house NG, nothing in line.
Thanks. I'll try the regulator. Seems like a good idea to me.
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Old 11-18-2012, 02:53 PM   #105
Darkness
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I think they are called rod clips for some reason.
here are a few picks of pages out of suppliers book.
Click image for larger version

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they are L11 in photo
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Old 11-23-2012, 09:32 PM   #106
usfmikeb
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Here's the link to the PDF for that catalog, relevant parts start on page 194 of the PDF, which is page 167 of the catalog.

http://www.erico.com/public/library/...cal/LT0975.PDF

 
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:06 PM   #107
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Are you guys using 12 gauge or 14 gauge strut?

I'm seeing both online.
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:29 PM   #108
gifty74
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I'm using PS200 Powerstrut. It's 12ga steel. Beefy stuff.

 
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:37 PM   #109
usfmikeb
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Galvanized or not?

 
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:43 PM   #110
gifty74
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Galvanized.

 
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