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Old 10-23-2012, 03:56 PM   #1
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Default Fermenting time

So I've been following the recipes on the Coopers kits pretty much to the letter, however I've managed to baffle almost everyone on here with the length of time that I let my primary fermentation go on for.

It says 3 weeks, yet people say "Good lord, why so long?", or "10 days is more than enough time".

I don't know what to believe. Any hints or words of advice?


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Old 10-23-2012, 04:12 PM   #2
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Really? The Coopers kits say 3 weeks? When I used to use Coopers, it said 10 days, but it my experience, 3 weeks was a whole better. More importantly, it's best if you kept fermentation temps on the lower end of spectrum.


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Old 10-23-2012, 04:14 PM   #3
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If you peruse this forum long enough, you'll find that 3 weeks is the answer to a lot of questions here.

3 Weeks.


Just to let the yeast tidy up after themselves.
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Old 10-23-2012, 04:17 PM   #4
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I use Final Gravity plus 5 days as a general rule, then it gets cold crashed for another 5 days before kegging/bottling.
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Old 10-23-2012, 04:55 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helibrewer View Post
I use Final Gravity plus 5 days as a general rule, then it gets cold crashed for another 5 days before kegging/bottling.
Is 'Cold crashing' what it sounds like? I'm assuming you refrigerate it in the fermenter?
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Old 10-23-2012, 04:58 PM   #6
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"Final Gravity" cannot be determined ahead of time for the most part, on our level. It's determined by what it ends up being when you take gravity readings over 3 day spans and it is stable. After this point, wait another 3+ days at a slightly higher temp, then rack or cold-crash for 2+ days then rack.

Cold crashing is lowering the beer temp to just above freezing, like in a fridge, in order to quickly settle particulates out of the beer so it clears.
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Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!
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Old 10-23-2012, 04:59 PM   #7
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Cold crashing is exactly that. Drop the temps to 40's for 2-5 days and then proceed. It causes yeast (ale yeast) to settle down, flocculate and settle to the bottom.
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Old 10-23-2012, 05:03 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tre9er View Post
"Final Gravity" cannot be determined ahead of time for the most part, on our level. It's determined by what it ends up being when you take gravity readings over 3 day spans and it is stable. After this point, wait another 3+ days at a slightly higher temp, then rack or cold-crash for 2+ days then rack.

Cold crashing is lowering the beer temp to just above freezing, like in a fridge, in order to quickly settle particulates out of the beer so it clears.
I like the idea of cold crashing. I might have to try it this time around.

Regarding the readings, how would you suggest taking them? I am using a 23L plastic tub with an airlock. I don't want to keep opening the lid every few days to risk oxidization, but is it ok if it's only for a couple of minutes?
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Old 10-23-2012, 05:11 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bibowski View Post
I like the idea of cold crashing. I might have to try it this time around.

Regarding the readings, how would you suggest taking them? I am using a 23L plastic tub with an airlock. I don't want to keep opening the lid every few days to risk oxidization, but is it ok if it's only for a couple of minutes?
Minimum I'd wait 10-14 days until you get the hang of things and know which beers are OK to deal with when they're young, and which aren't. After the 10-14 day period, pop the lid and take a reading. Then record that (as well as beer temp when you did, using sanitized themometer and hydrometer if you just toss the hydro into the bucket). The beer temp affects the reading. 3 days later do the same.

now, I'd ONLY do this if when you crack the lid you don't see krausen all over the top of the beer. It can be on the sides of the bucket, but if the top of the beer is covered in foamy-gooey stuff, it's not done, close before fully opening, come back in 3-5 days.
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Old 10-23-2012, 05:15 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tre9er View Post
Minimum I'd wait 10-14 days until you get the hang of things and know which beers are OK to deal with when they're young, and which aren't. After the 10-14 day period, pop the lid and take a reading. Then record that (as well as beer temp when you did, using sanitized themometer and hydrometer if you just toss the hydro into the bucket). The beer temp affects the reading. 3 days later do the same.

now, I'd ONLY do this if when you crack the lid you don't see krausen all over the top of the beer. It can be on the sides of the bucket, but if the top of the beer is covered in foamy-gooey stuff, it's not done, close before fully opening, come back in 3-5 days.
Awesome. This is VERY helpful, thanks for all of the tips everyone.


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