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Old 08-14-2007, 07:47 PM   #21
ScubaSteve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig5_12
In my build I've got my angle iron the other way around. That way the bend in the angle iron cradles the keg and it can't move at all. No accidental bumps or slides when pouring in water/wort. Although now that you've already notched the wood, you may not want to invert the rail now...
The wood can always be replaced if it means I will avoid a catastrophe. I kinda thought the angle iron would be stronger if it were like a chevron "^", with the point on the bottom of the keg....but then there wouldn't be as much surface area to distribute weight. In a "V" config I wonder if the weight wouldn't "pry" open the angle? How long are your bars? Mine are 28" with a 1.5" overlap on each end...I figure that being that short, they should be wicked strong.

 
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Old 08-14-2007, 08:12 PM   #22
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Looks nice, I like the wood.. WTH is HERMS???

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Old 08-14-2007, 08:49 PM   #23
Bobby_M
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It turned out that my ring burners were NOT propane versions but actually nat gas. The reason I was confused is that my previous burners, also labelled NG, had much larger orifices than the later versions I came into. These things are monsters and I'd prefer the 10 tip version if they were available.

The bed frame angle that I partially melted and bent was actually in the chevron position. I think the heat and weight open up the "V" to a more obtuse angle and it weakens it big time. You might be fine in the L position.
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Old 08-14-2007, 09:52 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScubaSteve
The wood can always be replaced if it means I will avoid a catastrophe. I kinda thought the angle iron would be stronger if it were like a chevron "^", with the point on the bottom of the keg....but then there wouldn't be as much surface area to distribute weight. In a "V" config I wonder if the weight wouldn't "pry" open the angle? How long are your bars? Mine are 28" with a 1.5" overlap on each end...I figure that being that short, they should be wicked strong.
My bars are pretty short, only about 18 inches with about an inch overlap onto more steel. They're also 3/8 or 1/4" so I don't worry about those suckers bending. A buddy of mine that owns a machine shop actually put together the frame out of the blue for me. Check it out here: www.mybrewery.shutterfly.com

In regards to the V, I don't think i'd go that route. I like having the L shape hold the keg still.

BTW...your build looks great so far!

 
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Old 08-14-2007, 09:57 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig5_12
My bars are pretty short, only about 18 inches with about an inch overlap onto more steel. They're also 3/8 or 1/4" so I don't worry about those suckers bending. A buddy of mine that owns a machine shop actually put together the frame out of the blue for me. Check it out here: www.mybrewery.shutterfly.com

In regards to the V, I don't think i'd go that route. I like having the L shape hold the keg still.

BTW...your build looks great so far!
Mine's kind of an upside down "L". I thought about having the sides come up in an "L" so as to trap the keg in a kind of shelf, but I didn't want the steel that far out to the sides because of weight distribution. I like the "upside down L" because the lower (vertical) portion provides a nice, stiff spine that resists bending. Only time will tell though! Thanks guys! More pics to come! I the meantime, I welcome any input/ideas!

 
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Old 08-15-2007, 12:28 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryanh1801
...WTH is HERMS???
Heat Exchange Recirculating Mash System. (I could be a little off, but I'm pretty sure that's it) It's where you indirectly heat your wort. You put flame to a kettle of water and heat to a certain temp. You don't DIRECTLY heat your mash tun. You recirculate your wort from the mash tun THROUGH the hot water inside a copper coil(or whatever else you can find) and back into your mash tun. Your wort will reach the temp of the other kettle's water. This technique aviods scorching of grains/sugars and dosn't kill any enzymes because the temperature never exceeds the target temp.

ScubaSteve, If you want to increase rigidity you could always run 2 more pieces of angle iron lengthwise the width of your keggles and cradle them so they don't go anywhere. I'm sure it'd be a bit more expensive but just another idea. Not sure if you have thought of it or not yet. I'm sure it'd work great without as well.
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Old 08-15-2007, 12:50 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScubaSteve

I'll keep the flashing in mind....I plan on creating some sort of collar around the burner as a wind/heatshield,

coffee cans
my work is done here
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Old 08-15-2007, 03:28 AM   #28
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Lol, you'll burn all the paint off and it will rust like nuts. How about some aluminum flashing as found in the roofing section of Lowes.
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Old 08-15-2007, 05:04 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bellybuster
coffee cans
my work is done here
Yeah, I had though about coffee cans....But Bobby makes a good point with rust/paint issues. I was thinking maybe I could use Hi-Temp rustoleum.....but that still may be too hot. I've seem aluminum flashing/round ducting that might work well too.

 
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Old 08-15-2007, 05:08 PM   #30
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Get some cheap (goodwill) stainless kitchen pots.

 
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