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Old 10-20-2012, 04:28 PM   #11
folly
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Oh no! You're making up beer names already? Wow, you're hooked and you haven't even done your first brew yet.

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Old 10-20-2012, 04:36 PM   #12
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I've been fishing the lake for 10 years, guiding it for 5 and drinking beer for 38. I've had a long time to think about all this.
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Old 10-20-2012, 04:40 PM   #13
unionrdr
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Sounds like you read some of my replies about half the 3lb bag of plain DME in the boil,etc. It works well every time. Once again I must remind folks that pasteurization happens well below the boiling point. You really do not need to boil the snot out of it to sanitize it.
Pasteurization happens at about 162F,boiling point is basically 212F. Easy enough to understand. By the time the remaining 1.5lb of DME & all the LME are added at flameout,it's still 180F+ by my measurements/observations.
So it is indeed completely safe to add remaining extract at flame out,working quickly. Then cover & steep 15 minutes & it's all good everytime,given that proper sanitation procedures have been followed.
Spring water works real well with extract beers from my experiences. And the BB ale pails are 6.5 gallons. I have a Cooper's micro brew FV that can hold some 7 gallons or so. So I do the 23L (6.072USG) in that one so as to have plenty of head space. I did do a 6G batch in the ale pail once,but def had to use a blow off to catch all the krausen. Boy did that blow off tube need some cleaning aftarwards. I keep a total of 3-4 airlocks cleaned & ready for use just in case...
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Old 10-20-2012, 04:57 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unionrdr View Post
Sounds like you read some of my replies about half the 3lb bag of plain DME in the boil,etc. It works well every time. Once again I must remind folks that pasteurization happens well below the boiling point. You really do not need to boil the snot out of it to sanitize it.
Pasteurization happens at about 162F,boiling point is basically 212F. Easy enough to understand. By the time the remaining 1.5lb of DME & all the LME are added at flameout,it's still 180F+ by my measurements/observations.
So it is indeed completely safe to add remaining extract at flame out,working quickly. Then cover & steep 15 minutes & it's all good everytime,given that proper sanitation procedures have been followed.
Spring water works real well with extract beers from my experiences. And the BB ale pails are 6.5 gallons. I have a Cooper's micro brew FV that can hold some 7 gallons or so. So I do the 23L (6.072USG) in that one so as to have plenty of head space. I did do a 6G batch in the ale pail once,but def had to use a blow off to catch all the krausen. Boy did that blow off tube need some cleaning aftarwards. I keep a total of 3-4 airlocks cleaned & ready for use just in case...
Yes, it was indeed your post I was referencing, and did not mean to imply it wasn't good info. Just wanted some additional clarification. So thanks for all that added detail, and the airlock advice. Looks like you've got a strong extract brewing system down, and if I don't go with the full-blown steeping grains and hops after these two Muntons kits are brewed, but stay with extracts awhile longer, I'll try out your method. Quite simple, really.

I had half a dozen airlocks in my hand at the brew store a few days ago but put them back 'cause I figured one would be enough for now. They're so cheap, though, and I'll grab up a bunch of them next time.
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Old 10-20-2012, 11:29 PM   #15
Rideandbrew
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If you don't own a wort chiller and are planning an ice bath for cool down,
I would not boil more than 3.5 gallons.

 
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Old 10-21-2012, 12:50 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rideandbrew View Post
If you don't own a wort chiller and are planning an ice bath for cool down,
I would not boil more than 3.5 gallons.
I don't have a wort chiller.

But the recipe directions call for boiling about 1.5 gallons and then dumping in 4.5 gallons of cold (but formerly boiled) water after the fermentables have been introduced.
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Old 10-21-2012, 02:09 AM   #17
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Take up no more space than 3.5 gallons.
I have had a delicious beer with a 2.5 gallon boil.
Beersmith will also help you with what levels are reasonable.

 
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Old 10-21-2012, 02:56 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElyIrishBrew View Post
Yes, it was indeed your post I was referencing, and did not mean to imply it wasn't good info. Just wanted some additional clarification. So thanks for all that added detail, and the airlock advice. Looks like you've got a strong extract brewing system down, and if I don't go with the full-blown steeping grains and hops after these two Muntons kits are brewed, but stay with extracts awhile longer, I'll try out your method. Quite simple, really.

I had half a dozen airlocks in my hand at the brew store a few days ago but put them back 'cause I figured one would be enough for now. They're so cheap, though, and I'll grab up a bunch of them next time.
No harm,no foul. I just recognized my process being mentioned. Glad someone's paying attention . My system does indeed work well with 2.5-3 gallon boils. Adding steeping grains to that is easy. Just steep the grains in the same amount of water at 150-165F for 30 minutes. Drain & proceed. That's it. Or you can steep in,say,2 gallons of water & sparge with 1 gallon. Either way works.
I use half a 3lb bag of plain DME in that amount of water for hop additions. Adding the remaining extracts as noted above. It's simple for even a beginner to learn about hop additions,etc with my recipes. Follow good sanitation & my procees,& you'll get good ales. my 2c anyway. & it's always good to have a few clean airlocks around. I saved the box from my vinator to store ziplock bags of Airlocks,grommets,hop/grain sacks,etc. Don't loose'em that way.
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Old 10-21-2012, 04:20 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unionrdr View Post
No harm,no foul. I just recognized my process being mentioned. Glad someone's paying attention . My system does indeed work well with 2.5-3 gallon boils. Adding steeping grains to that is easy. Just steep the grains in the same amount of water at 150-165F for 30 minutes. Drain & proceed. That's it. Or you can steep in,say,2 gallons of water & sparge with 1 gallon. Either way works.
I use half a 3lb bag of plain DME in that amount of water for hop additions. Adding the remaining extracts as noted above. It's simple for even a beginner to learn about hop additions,etc with my recipes. Follow good sanitation & my procees,& you'll get good ales. my 2c anyway. & it's always good to have a few clean airlocks around. I saved the box from my vinator to store ziplock bags of Airlocks,grommets,hop/grain sacks,etc. Don't loose'em that way.
Thanks again. I'll be digging this thread back up when I get into grains and hops instead of extracts.

Just did the brew this morning as per the directions and it all went together fine. Put the yeast in warm once-boiled water for 15 minutes, stirred it up, pitched it in the wort at 71 degrees and stirred it vigorously, capped it and put in the airlock. Getting to be close to time for some Packers football. Hopefully it'll be fermenting by halftime.

First I've read about putting vodka in the airlock. Is that specific to the recipe of yours I looked at or better in general than putting in some boiled water?
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Old 10-21-2012, 04:49 PM   #20
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It's better than boiled water,which cools & collects nasties. And starsan foams up & out the little holes on the airlock cap. Vodka I think is best,since anything that does settle into it dies of alcohol poisoning. I got it from one episode of Hombrewer TV with Gary that I used to watch. He even gave one of my extract ales the full 3 thumbs up. I beat out a commercial ale! Cheap grocery store vodka rocks for this app.
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