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Old 10-24-2012, 12:30 AM   #21
kosmokramer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bullinachinashop View Post
This is a situation where you need to pay a professional.
There are a lot of variables that need to be considered and taking someones advice over the net isn't a good idea.
I'm not saying that you're not capable of doing some or all of the work, but from the questions you're asking, it's obvious you need a professional.
Some one with a license, insurance, history, workman's comp, etc.
Also, a building permit will give you the peace of mind that the job is done right.
Check out Angie's List if they are available in your area.
Bull
At this point i am resigned to the fact that i must pay somebody to do this for me but i want to get as much education as possible to make sure it is done right.


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Old 10-24-2012, 01:54 AM   #22
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yes, a truss company (most of them) can & might size a beam for you. May not be free... I don't know about truss companies in Ca.

That's why I asked on the spans... I was referring to the spans of the roof trusses that bear on that wall. Knowing that & the material on the roof, I can estimate the loads a beam would be taking.

Now down through the posts... you said below you have a crawl space. Concrete pillars or more posts in the ground would need to be added to support the posts in the wall carrying the beam, carrying the trusses.

I have been in the truss industry for about 8-9 years & family has own/operated a company since 1960 something




 
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Old 10-24-2012, 03:59 AM   #23
kosmokramer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VegasJ View Post

That's why I asked on the spans... I was referring to the spans of the roof trusses that bear on that wall. Knowing that & the material on the roof, I can estimate the loads a beam would be taking.

Now down through the posts... you said below you have a crawl space. Concrete pillars or more posts in the ground would need to be added to support the posts in the wall carrying the beam, carrying the trusses.
I will measure tomarrow after work. I think it is difficult to measure because not far from that wall it goes into sort of a pyramid. here is a link to what im talking about. Im not sure if thats where the peak ends but it looks like the support to the left in the first couple seconds is about where the opening would start. also here is a redfin pic of the outside.
the roof is pretty heavy right now with 1 layer of wood shingles and 2 layers of asphalt composite shingles. A new roof is in the budget for next year
Is this what goes under the house?http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.UIdqyWed6So


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Old 10-24-2012, 05:39 AM   #24
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So it looks like the wall in question is likely where all the rafters bear plus the overlay of the lower sloped shed roof. It might be a real pita to get your ceiling completely flush. They'll probably have to plumb cut the rafters and hang them in addition to the ceiling joists depending on how deep a member you need. Yuck.

I'd suggest a beam below the ceiling joists. You could span that all the way from foundation to foundation and not mess with a new pad in the crawl. You could open it up all the way or build a portion of wall back under the new beam.

 
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Old 10-24-2012, 12:59 PM   #25
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You can build a cased opening if you don't want to go through the trouble or money of recessing a beam into the ceiling? Just wanted to throw an alternative out there. It may not look as clean but it cold save you a few bucks.
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Old 10-24-2012, 01:31 PM   #26
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I'm hesitant to throw my 2cents in here, but... heck fools rush in (boy doesn't that discount this commentarty).

I agree with all the prior statement that you need at least a liscensed Eng/Arch to take a look at this and design something.

A truss maker or simlar should beable to design you a good header if you are looking to basically create a 115in by 82 inch openeing (doors are typically 82 -6'8" in height). I'd even consider using a couple of 2x8 nailed together, EXCEPT that in So Cal while you have very little snow load (I did work in the North East), you have a dang earthquake problem and that throws most of my experience out the window. (Hence my fools comment).

Since you are just looking for info, if this were a typical opening, (look at your doorframe) you'd have a header that rested on jack posts nailed to a king post. King post goes all the way floor to ceiling, jack is next to it and stops at the header. (left side of your picture). The larger the opening the thicker the header - in this case it is 2 2x4's, but for a larger opening, it could be 2x6, or up to even 2x12's or some structural material.

If you were doing this yourself, you'd look to support the inner room I think as you cut out the current wall, then put in your new structural support, if done right, you'd get no cracking, and certainly no collapse.

For your specific location, you are looking at load from the upper roof, lower roof and then quake stresses.

 
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Old 10-24-2012, 01:41 PM   #27
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Thanks for all the comments, suggestions, and recomendations guys. It all helps... keep em coming
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Old 10-24-2012, 01:46 PM   #28
kosmokramer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mariojr View Post
You can build a cased opening if you don't want to go through the trouble or money of recessing a beam into the ceiling? Just wanted to throw an alternative out there. It may not look as clean but it cold save you a few bucks.
My uncle actually recommended that but i know over time it would bother me ...lol

i have an in-law that is the engineer for the families structural steel company and he is supposed to come take a look this evening. Not sure structural sttel commercial building and residential housing experience is comparable but another opinion couldnt hurt
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Old 10-24-2012, 03:18 PM   #29
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Another thing to keep in my (from a budgeting perspective) is that you might need to get a geotech (soil) report for those concrete piers (the home depot link).
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Old 10-24-2012, 03:42 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A4J View Post
Another thing to keep in my (from a budgeting perspective) is that you might need to get a geotech (soil) report for those concrete piers (the home depot link).
Jeez... i just wanted a simple butcherblock bfast counter...lol, guess i also just wanted a simple brew system when i started planning that as well and here i am, my buddy finished tigging my keggles last night and i should be testing manual modes in the bcs this weekend

Where is " the desert" A4J?


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