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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Brew Stands > Another brew stand - 10 months in the making
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Old 10-12-2012, 03:01 AM   #21
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Also, what size BK, MLT, and HLT are you running on that?

Edit: Nevermind. Saw the keggle's on page one. Completely forgot about those.


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Old 10-12-2012, 03:45 PM   #22
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Also, what size BK, MLT, and HLT are you running on that?

Edit: Nevermind. Saw the keggle's on page one. Completely forgot about those.
Yup!

Made the width wide enough to get 20 gal Blichmann's on there if we wanted to.


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Old 10-12-2012, 04:13 PM   #23
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Very nice stand. Where did you get those standing pilots? I like them.
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Old 10-12-2012, 04:38 PM   #24
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Very nice stand. Where did you get those standing pilots? I like them.
Robbed them off of the Cast Iron Jet burners that we originally bought. After many test and fighting with the flame/control we decided against them and got the 10" Banjo burners.

Just like these pilot lights

Welded the pilot light right into a reducer that then was welded onto the 1/4" pilot gas line.

These are some photos of the original burners before we decided against them. I highly recommend the banjos over the jets.
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Old 10-12-2012, 05:24 PM   #25
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Nice and clean! Great job!
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Old 10-12-2012, 05:33 PM   #26
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Thanks, I went with the high pressure cast iron burners when I made mine and I'm okay with how they work. But I have been thinking about changing my gas manifold a little and may change up my pilot light setup, but then again, it works so right now it's just a thought.

Do you get any flame control of the burner from the valves or is it simply on/off?
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:20 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by rekoob View Post
Thanks, I went with the high pressure cast iron burners when I made mine and I'm okay with how they work. But I have been thinking about changing my gas manifold a little and may change up my pilot light setup, but then again, it works so right now it's just a thought.

Do you get any flame control of the burner from the valves or is it simply on/off?
On the HLT & MT there's the solenoid first, then a ball valve, then a needle valve. The solenoid is obviously on/off from the panel, then the ball valve is main on/off as a backup. The needle valve is really where the control is for the burners. Then there's the air intake on the burner itself to dial things in even more.

Control for the BK burner is simply on/off with a needle valve after that. I've also got control with a dial regulator right after the tanks.

Pilot lights are equal distances from the T so that the flames are the same height, and they're controlled off a smaller 1/4" valve as well.
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:04 PM   #28
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Small update:

Getting some butt weld nipples milled down for the silicone tubing. I'm on board with Bobby's take on the reduced port for the barbed cam locks, so I found an alternative. These will be for the straight fittings going into the hoses. I've ordered the barbed 90s from Bobby. Should be here next week!
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Old 10-12-2012, 08:46 PM   #29
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Why didn't you just go with these? http://www.stainlessbrewing.com/12-x...pple_p_96.html
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Old 10-12-2012, 08:56 PM   #30
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I already had the hex butt weld fittings, so I figured I should use what I had laying around. Don't worry, I need to put in another order for some more cams soon.


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