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Old 09-24-2013, 09:24 AM   #41
SvenF
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When do you add the 0min hops? At FO or do you do a cooled down hop stand? I wouldn't see you getting even close to the 60IBU range, what a red chair is supposed to have, if you added this amount of Cascade right at flameout. If you keep in mind the isomerisation of the alpha acids that would still be going on at those temperatures, you would probably end up at around 100IBU or something.
I thought about maybe a cooled down hop stand, at around 160–170F for 60 to 80 minutes with the Cascade. Or maybe even half the amount in the hop stand and half of it as dry hopping. The 3oz Centennial should almost bring it up to the 60IBU on their own.
What do you guys think?

EDIT: Oh and also, what kind of a dry yeast would you suggest?

 
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Old 09-25-2013, 05:09 PM   #42
ThomperYT
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I've made this brew 4 times now, and actually just racked to kegs last night.
I add the 0min hops at FO and just let them sit while my immersion chiller is doing its thing. So they're probably in there for 30 min at least. Then I remove my hop bag before racking to carboys.
I enjoy the extra "hoppiness" and it's not all that strong using this method. Maybe a little more IBUs than what it's "supposed to" have, but that's what HB is all about, tailor the system and product to your liking.

 
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Old 09-29-2013, 03:43 AM   #43
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I'm brewing Round 3 of this tonight. The only change is 40L instead of 60L. Something wasn't quite there on the sweetness last time, so I'm going to see what impact this has. Results to come...
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Old 10-20-2013, 07:25 AM   #44
SvenF
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Just brewed this up yesterday and ended up short on my final batch size. I'm about 3/4 of a gallon short because this didn't fit into my boiling kettle anymore. I just figured I would add water after the boil since the gravity should be higher. But it came out at 1.063. So pretty much where it should be. Only problem is, I didn't recalculate the hops and I'm now probably looking more towards 75 or 80 IBU or so, instead of the intended 60. I thought about bringing it at least down to 1.060 with water and then just see how it'll turn out. What do u say?

 
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Old 10-21-2013, 12:58 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SvenF View Post
Just brewed this up yesterday and ended up short on my final batch size. I'm about 3/4 of a gallon short because this didn't fit into my boiling kettle anymore. I just figured I would add water after the boil since the gravity should be higher. But it came out at 1.063. So pretty much where it should be. Only problem is, I didn't recalculate the hops and I'm now probably looking more towards 75 or 80 IBU or so, instead of the intended 60. I thought about bringing it at least down to 1.060 with water and then just see how it'll turn out. What do u say?
If it were me, I wouldn't mess with it. I'd just see how it comes out and give it another shot if you're not happy with it. I think adding even more variables just complicates things and this way you'll know why you're where you are. Unless I can actually calculate my error and correction, I don't like to change things after the boil too much.
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Old 10-22-2013, 01:40 PM   #46
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I did add some water, but it really wasn't much. About 10 ounces. I didn't want to fall below the 1.060. It's fermenting nice now and will be what it is. I'll let you guys know. Thanks for the answer though!

 
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Old 11-09-2013, 08:59 PM   #47
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Brewing this up today. It's my second try. First batch lost all hop flavor and aroma, but was still a delicious amber. Hoping the hops come through this time.

 
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Old 11-24-2013, 04:24 AM   #48
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I've read Deschutes' website several times about Red Chair NWPA while looking over the recipes online and I just came across what might be a small "missing link." The few batches I've made seemed to be close, but lack some complexity in the sweetness. As I was re-reading, I came across this:

"Seven select European and domestic malts round out the edges for a complex, copper-colored brew."

However, all the recipes online, including this one, use 6 malts. Deschutes themselves state that Red Chair uses "Pale, Crystal, Munich, Carapils, Pilsner, Carastan," which is only six. So, I'm guessing the missing seventh is another crystal malt. My first guess is C40 in addition to C60. Another possibility is Light Carastan 13-17L. So, I'm going to do another batch this week using a blend of C60 & C40. I haven't decided the amounts yet. I'll get some Light Carastan 13-17L on Monday and work up a batch with that as well.

Any other input on that idea?
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Old 11-24-2013, 05:15 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crjpilot View Post
I've read Deschutes' website several times about Red Chair NWPA while looking over the recipes online and I just came across what might be a small "missing link." The few batches I've made seemed to be close, but lack some complexity in the sweetness. As I was re-reading, I came across this:

"Seven select European and domestic malts round out the edges for a complex, copper-colored brew."

However, all the recipes online, including this one, use 6 malts. Deschutes themselves state that Red Chair uses "Pale, Crystal, Munich, Carapils, Pilsner, Carastan," which is only six. So, I'm guessing the missing seventh is another crystal malt. My first guess is C40 in addition to C60. Another possibility is Light Carastan 13-17L. So, I'm going to do another batch this week using a blend of C60 & C40. I haven't decided the amounts yet. I'll get some Light Carastan 13-17L on Monday and work up a batch with that as well.

Any other input on that idea?
I like it!

I'd consider 0.5lb of 90L and 0.5lb of 40L. That should get you about the same color as the 1lb of 60L, but with a little more sweetness/body.

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Old 11-27-2013, 09:10 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by AZ_IPA View Post
I like it!

I'd consider 0.5lb of 90L and 0.5lb of 40L. That should get you about the same color as the 1lb of 60L, but with a little more sweetness/body.
I haven't used 90L before, but I picked some up yesterday. I might throw a couple of mixed percentages into some hot water and give it a taste to get an idea of what would be right.
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