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Old 10-06-2012, 06:53 PM   #1
dcHokie
 
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When bottling long-aged beers I've bottled "normally" with a calculated amount of priming sugar, I've dialed back the sugar and increased the sugar to account for brett, I've re-yeasted at bottling with some bloomed dry yeast (champagne, wine & beer), re-yeasted with sacch slurry, and also with brett.

Obviously this is highly variable from batch to batch, but I don't get consistent enough results with any of these processes to deem it my go-to method.

How does everyone else bottle their long-aged wild/sour/funky beers?
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Old 10-07-2012, 04:31 AM   #2
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I've been planning my bottling to coincide with when I have a starter for another beer. I take about half a pint from an active starter and add that to the bottling bucket.

Seems to be working OK, the bottles are carbing fine, such that I can be drinking them within a few weeks if I choose.

 
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Old 10-07-2012, 05:35 PM   #3
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This is a great question as I have been wondering what others are doing as well. The last Brett blended beer I bottled I used s-04 based in a recommendation from a sour guru in our area. It seems to have worked pretty well for me. But what is the "acceptable" way others are doing? I would think you would want to use a strain that is already in the mix to begin with.
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Old 10-07-2012, 06:50 PM   #4
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I used to just bottle with whatever was active in the beer. Now I add a little champagne yeast with priming sugar. Champagne yeast only eats the priming sugar so it will compete readily with any active bacteria and yeast for the corn sugar. It flocs well and clumps on the bottom of the bottle.

You also have to calculate in the highest temperature of the beer during aging to get in the ballpark of how much CO2 might be left. Then add an additional amount of priming sugar to account for what dissipated over time regardless of the temperature.

 
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Old 10-07-2012, 07:44 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReverseApacheMaster View Post

You also have to calculate in the highest temperature of the beer during aging to get in the ballpark of how much CO2 might be left. Then add an additional amount of priming sugar to account for what dissipated over time regardless of the temperature.
Is there a standard calculation for determining how much CO2 dissipates over time?
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Old 10-07-2012, 10:00 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aschecte View Post
I would think you would want to use a strain that is already in the mix to begin with.
Why? Any sacc strain should do. Any sugars the sacc strain will ferment will already have been consumed by the brett and bugs. The only simple sugar for the new yeast to ferment will be the priming sugar.

 
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Old 10-07-2012, 10:02 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Calder

Why? Any sacc strain should do. Any sugars the sacc strain will ferment will already have been consumed by the brett and bugs. The only simple sugar for the new yeast to ferment will be the priming sugar.
Well that was my curiosity I know the sacch will only eat the priming sugars but I have heard everything from wine yeast, Sachh, Brett, sherry yeast etc. I was curious a to what others are doing and if there was a right way for sours I was not aware of that's all.
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:06 PM   #8
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I have been using red star wine yeast mainly cause its cheap, also I have heard wine yeast will stand up to the acidity a little better.

 
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Old 10-11-2012, 02:08 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradjoiner View Post
I have been using red star wine yeast mainly cause its cheap, also I have heard wine yeast will stand up to the acidity a little better.
I have heard this as well with a sour beer as the ph is drastically lower than a standard beer and a standard Sacch strain will not carbonate due to the ph. for my non-sours I have been re yeasting with the primary strain or a nuetral strain like us-05. I have also recently read that for sours Sacchromyces Bayanan - EC-1118 by llavlin ( I believe that's the spelling ) is a good choice.
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Old 10-11-2012, 06:24 PM   #10
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I have had good success using EC-1118 to bottle sours.

 
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