Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Kegerators and Keezers > Concrete Counter Top Keezer
Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 10-01-2012, 07:43 PM   #1
mjw210
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 13
Liked 3 Times on 1 Posts

Default Concrete Counter Top Keezer

I'm in the middle of building my keezer and still deciding on what I want to do for the top. Right now my thought is to make the top out of poured concrete since it looks awesome. I've looked around the forum and the only other keezer build I can find is this one: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/pallet-keezer-344104/

Has anyone had any experience with this? I have never done something like this before and this project is certainly pushing the limits of my DIY-ness. My main concern here is weight, but using a calculator online it seems like the top will be at most 60 lbs, without accounting for any siding.

Also, can anyone experienced in concrete provide some insight on whether my keezer design will have issues with a concrete top? Right now my thought is to create a mold of the plywood top with a spot removed for the drip tray and tower (the shelving will be added later), and then make a 3/4 inch thick concrete piece that will then be glued on to the actual keezer.

So far I have the base and siding of the keezer built and it's coming out great. Hopefully the whole thing will turn out as good.


Click image for larger version

Name:	Keezer Front.jpg
Views:	880
Size:	21.8 KB
ID:	77844   Click image for larger version

Name:	Keezer Back.jpg
Views:	810
Size:	19.5 KB
ID:	77845  
mjw210 is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2012, 08:07 PM   #2
mlyday
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bay City, MI
Posts: 915
Liked 27 Times on 26 Posts

Default

There was someone on here that did concrete bartops, and laid out exactly how they did it. Ill see if I can find the link.


mlyday is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2012, 09:45 PM   #3
OCBrewin
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
OCBrewin's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 253
Liked 21 Times on 17 Posts
Likes Given: 4

Default

3/4" concrete will be very hard to do without cracking. Better put some mesh in there too.
OCBrewin is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2012, 12:27 AM   #4
Junkster
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: North Central, Ohio
Posts: 509
Liked 31 Times on 22 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

I read somewhere that you can make lightweight concrete using Perlite or Vermiculite (from a garden supply) for the aggregate instead of stone. This would allow more of a standard thickness but still save considerable weight. I suppose reinforcing wire, rod, mesh or fibers would still be advisable.
Junkster is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2012, 12:37 AM   #5
day_trippr
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Stow, MA
Posts: 15,398
Liked 2330 Times on 1786 Posts

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by OCBrewin View Post
3/4" concrete will be very hard to do without cracking. Better put some mesh in there too.
I don't think mesh (or wire or rebar) prevents cracking, it just prevents separation.

In any case, there are lots of different concrete additives available that provide varying degrees of flexibility. That's something that should be given serious consideration in this type of application, as it would be difficult to assure the contact surface supporting the sheet to be totally stable and flex-free...

Cheers!
day_trippr is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2012, 12:42 AM   #6
Face Eater
I brew beer....
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 9 reviews
 
Face Eater's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 803
Liked 51 Times on 36 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

I've also seen people make a top out of plywood or mdf then coat that with something that mimics poured concrete. I seen it on DIY but don't remember what they used to put over the wood. I'll see if I can find it. Looked pretty good and would save a ton of weight.
Face Eater is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2012, 12:44 AM   #7
OCBrewin
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
OCBrewin's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 253
Liked 21 Times on 17 Posts
Likes Given: 4

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by day_trippr View Post
I don't think mesh (or wire or rebar) prevents cracking, it just prevents separation.
While true that rebar doesn't prevent cracking, and that all concrete cracks to some degree - reinforcing of any kind (glass fibers, wire mesh, heck - even chicken wire) will keep the concrete together. Concrete is really good in compression, but almost worthless in tension (read - flexure), but in which steel is excellent. Without reinforcing, once a crack happens - poof, there goes that section of concrete.

The main culprits in concrete cracking and low strength are too much water in the mix and not controlling the evaporation during curing. I know that this isn't exactly the Burj Dubai, but as a structural engineer who designs a lot of concrete structures, I must point out that there are a few small steps to take that will ensure a nice, crack free (almost, at least) surface.

Good luck!
OCBrewin is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2012, 02:37 AM   #8
pedimac
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
pedimac's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 115
Liked 20 Times on 12 Posts
Likes Given: 37

Default

I poured my own countertops, and followed Fu-Tung Cheng's advice on pouring (http://www.concreteexchange.com/). Very precise in his instuctions. His kits are a little expensive for just 60 lbs of top, but I love the way mine came out. For crazy, baby bottom smooth top, this is the way to go.

1 - Measure and lay out a template
2 - flip templates over and build molds out of melamine. The top of the counter actually sits on the melamine to dry.
3 - SWMBO waterproofing melamine
4 - friend helping pour concrete (white patch in the back is the negative for the sink - that piece weighs 480 lbs) We put in the mesh as a rebar. Cheng suggests putting a rebar in if it's spanning anything, and more than an inch away from the surface. Too close and the rebar will ghost through the surface.
5 - finished product - we also poured some backsplashes.
Click image for larger version

Name:	counters 1.jpg
Views:	624
Size:	56.4 KB
ID:	77924   Click image for larger version

Name:	counters 2.jpg
Views:	756
Size:	58.7 KB
ID:	77925   Click image for larger version

Name:	counters 3.jpg
Views:	620
Size:	69.8 KB
ID:	77926   Click image for larger version

Name:	counters 4.jpg
Views:	660
Size:	60.0 KB
ID:	77927   Click image for larger version

Name:	counters 5.jpg
Views:	695
Size:	43.0 KB
ID:	77928  

pedimac is offline
esteban Likes This 
Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2012, 02:37 AM   #9
mjw210
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 13
Liked 3 Times on 1 Posts

Default

Yup, I definitely would plan on reinforcing it with something before pouring.

Also, I wanted to do concrete over just painting/staining wood so that the 3/4" drip tray would be flush with the surface. I think the concrete would be the easiest way to make a single top that has spaces for the tower and tray.

And it would look awesome.
mjw210 is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2012, 02:42 AM   #10
pedimac
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
pedimac's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 115
Liked 20 Times on 12 Posts
Likes Given: 37

Default

Make sure to vibrate it down when pouring. I just used a jigsaw without the blade for 10-15 minutes along the edges of the molds. A week after pouring, flip the piece over and let it dry for a few days, then start wet sanding.

We didn't take any pics wet sanding, because I was cold and cranky when we did this outside in January (great timing, I know.) but you can smooth it like crazy.

I do plan on doing this for my keezer when I get the ok from SWMBO, but not 2" thick. The weight adds up frikkin fast.


Click image for larger version

Name:	Counters 6.jpg
Views:	572
Size:	29.0 KB
ID:	77930   Click image for larger version

Name:	Counters 7.jpg
Views:	600
Size:	39.9 KB
ID:	77931  
pedimac is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
The keezer build is finally finished! Keezer porn attached. GRHunter Kegerators and Keezers 21 08-31-2014 01:16 AM
my concrete/steel 3 roller mill martinworswick Other 3 01-14-2011 05:41 AM
My DIY, low-budget, concrete-roller grain mill -TH- Other 48 01-12-2011 06:37 PM
My Concrete countertop bar build 670x Kegerators and Keezers 19 04-03-2010 03:02 PM
Fixing concrete Cheesefood Other 8 03-20-2007 11:26 PM


Forum Jump