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Old 09-26-2012, 05:14 PM   #11
maltbarleyhops
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im liking the controller that i seen at www.theobtuseangle.com

it just may be the one.


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Old 09-26-2012, 07:53 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by maltbarleyhops View Post
im liking the controller that i seen at www.theobtuseangle.com

it just may be the one.
I did the controller in this thread:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/pwm...us-how-221301/

You replace the C1 cap with a 2.2uF, which they sell at RadioShack and you have about a 1.2Hz PWM controller. You can order the PWM from Bakatronics preassembled if you want which means just replacing the cap instead of assembling the whole thing.

I didn't see anywhere on theobtuseangle.com where you can buy his controller so if you don't want to design the circuit yourself the bakatronics one is a simple solution.

Good luck and be sure to post pics when you build one.


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Old 09-28-2012, 07:09 AM   #13
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solid-State-...item45fe60ed00

would this ssr work?
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Old 09-28-2012, 01:05 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTL View Post
I did the controller in this thread:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/pwm...us-how-221301/

You replace the C1 cap with a 2.2uF, which they sell at RadioShack and you have about a 1.2Hz PWM controller. You can order the PWM from Bakatronics preassembled if you want which means just replacing the cap instead of assembling the whole thing.
I'm not great at soldering - tend to make a mess - and I thought about ordering the Bakatronics board pre-made. I don't guess it's too difficult to remove the stock capacitor: heat up the solder around the points and pull it out the second the solder melts?

I guess I'd have to make certain that I remove the correct item.

IIRC, Walker shows his own PWM circuit in which he uses a potentiometer that includes the clicking ON/OFF switch.

Keith
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Old 09-28-2012, 06:29 PM   #15
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and what would i add to make the power switchable to operate two elements. one at a time of course. (i.e. operate a hlt element OR bk element, never both simultaneously)
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Old 09-28-2012, 07:30 PM   #16
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This ought to do the trick.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=235
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Old 09-29-2012, 06:06 AM   #17
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its only rated at 10A
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Old 10-02-2012, 04:50 PM   #18
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i finished installing the element in my hlt. i decided it was time to see it do something. currently testing it at 110v on 5 gallons of water. nothing special. 1 hour and im from 68f to 143f.

no leaks, ground continuity at 000.2 ohms. so im calling it viable. the real test at 220v will be on saturday. im hoping there is some type of "ramp" that i should expect when i throw the 220v at it. if not, ill have to explore a different element than the 4500w on im currently using.
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Old 10-02-2012, 04:57 PM   #19
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from my mother-

"watch a pot and it will never boil",

so im gonna step away for a bit (of course i have a remote thermometer )
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Old 10-03-2012, 05:16 AM   #20
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so, after 2 hrs, no boil at 5 gallons, 220v should prove much better. now ive hit a snag with the procurement of the PWM circuit. will order from Bakatronics online.

still shooting for brewing on this system in some form on 10/21.


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