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Old 09-18-2012, 11:18 PM   #71
TheOnionKnight
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Congrats on this amazing build!

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Old 09-18-2012, 11:21 PM   #72
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Looks fantastic - worth the hard work for sure.
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Old 09-19-2012, 12:51 AM   #73
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Didnt know if u already mentioned or not. How do u like the pex tubing for plumbing. My brother and i just did all the homeruns at his house. And a friend whos a plumber hates it. But dont really see how. I love how this garage is coming out. Kinda what im thinking for my brewery upgrade!!!
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Old 09-19-2012, 04:40 PM   #74
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dcarroll, I have to say I am a fan of PEX. The ease of installation and flexibility that it allows is outstanding. Just in this simple building it probably saved 8 hours of work over using copper pipe, not to mention the expense. The downside is that you need a special tool to make the fittings, which we had to rent for a few bucks a day. Even with the added hassle of buying or renting the tool, it was a big savings.

 
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Old 09-19-2012, 07:09 PM   #75
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Finally, insulation is DONE. This half of the building will be much easier to drywall than the brewery section, since there are fewer outlets, and no plumbing to work around.


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Old 09-19-2012, 07:54 PM   #76
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Too many photos of boring insulation these past couple of days, so here is some good stuff I worked on last night.

Drilling the new MLT (existing BK is on the right)


Running PBW through the new MLT to clean after drilling


Detail on the shiny stainless steel underside of the hood. I still can't believe my luck to find this thing.


The brewery, ready for action! I'm just waiting for the drywall to be finished on the other side of the building before I'll allow myself to brew. It should be done by Saturday afternoon.


Also addressing a previous question, the gas manifold is now fully secured with those 1 hole conduit straps. They work great. You can find them in the electrical (not plumbing) section of your box store.

 
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:05 PM   #77
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A question for anyone reading that might have input: I'm fairly confident that the stainless steel backing (on the wall) will provide sufficient heat shielding to protect the wall, but I'm cautious about taking this for granted. The steel on the wall gets quite hot when the burners are running flat out. I could slide the stand out from the wall a bit, but then I'd loose the effectiveness of my hood. In my experience the reflective characteristics of the steel will protect the wall from most of the radiant heat, but there is still quite a bit of heat transfered via its conductive qualities. I'm a little concerned about what's going in inside the wall. I'm also struggling to figure out how to test it.. I've thought about going outside the building an drilling a small hole in the wall to insert a thermometer.

The contractor I've been working with doesn't think it'll be a problem at all. Maybe I'm just over-thinking it.

Thoughts?
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:08 PM   #78
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To be safe, why not put some backer board on there.
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:22 PM   #79
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Good point. Some ceramic spacers, backerboard and then the stainless sheeting is probably the way to go. I do have "X type" drywall on the wall behind the stainless, but without an air gap there isn't much I can do to prevent the conduction of heat to the wood studs.

Hmm... I really don't want to redo that wall
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:47 PM   #80
Jokenring
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Apr 2011
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Just get some thin backerboard (the concrete stuff for tile work) screw that on then lay your stainless over that. Your current set-up may be fine, but why risk it.

 
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