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Old 09-10-2012, 10:33 AM   #11
Calichusetts's Avatar
Nov 2011
Plymouth, MA
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Try adding a hop tea to your keg before you transfer the beer. I'm using a pretty similar schedule for my hops and while I wasn't dissapointed in the aroma, the hop tea finally got it to where I wanted to be.

I am also using more hops than you though.

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Old 09-10-2012, 04:59 PM   #12
Jul 2011
Portland, Oregon
Posts: 444
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For your 0min addition, cool the wort to 180F before you add it. Then, let it steep for 20-30min.

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Old 09-10-2012, 05:06 PM   #13
Double_D's Avatar
Feb 2011
Las Vegas, Nevada
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Originally Posted by Brewham View Post
My dry hop experience has been "iffy." If I just throw them in, they clog up the valve and tube when I bottle. I put them in a muslin bag to stop that. But, either way and even if I boil the bag, I end up with a filmy white skin on the top that looks like an infection. I'm not convinced dry hops are all that sterile. What say you?
I'd say it's Brett and I've had that once but just transfer from under the pellicle. It will hardly show through the hop character.

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Old 09-10-2012, 05:57 PM   #14
Nov 2011
Lino Lakes, MN
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I had a similar problem and it was high ph because I was adding 5.2 to my mash water to raise the ph. Stopped using 5.2 and problem solved.
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Old 09-10-2012, 06:30 PM   #15
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Jun 2006
UP of Michigan, Winter Texan
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It could be related to water chemistry- what kind of water are you using?

How long does it take you to chill? Taking a long time to chill can make late addition hops more like flavor hops.

Even without dryhopping, you should have plenty of hop aroma and flavor with those recipes.
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Old 09-11-2012, 02:06 AM   #16
Aug 2010
North Olmsted, Ohio
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Originally Posted by Bierliebhaber
For your 0min addition, cool the wort to 180F before you add it. Then, let it steep for 20-30min.

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Old 09-11-2012, 09:57 AM   #17
Aug 2012
alexis, nc
Posts: 64
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I know it's been discussed here before, but I've had pretty good aroma from just putting the hops in a hop bag and dropping it into the keg. Even if the keg its for a little bit in the fridge, the aroma never diminishes. This method has become my favorite for dry hopping. To hopefully deter any infections I simply swish my hop bag around in my starsan bucket fefore adding the hops. 6 batches this way an no issues yet.

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Old 01-25-2013, 04:14 PM   #18

If you're trying to get a good aroma you want to steep @145F to preserve the mycrene oil, anything above 147F will boil this off. I've done this many times and have found it to work very well. Water chemistry is a big factor as well.

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Old 01-26-2013, 09:47 PM   #19
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Dec 2007
Santa Cruz, CA
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Could be mash pH. I never got good hop flavor or aroma before I dialed in my mash pH (especially in lighter beers).
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Old 01-27-2013, 07:48 AM   #20
Jan 2013
Posts: 7

Originally Posted by ICWiener
I used to have the same problem. I don't know how your technique is, but I was always dry hopping too early. If there's any activity in your beer, it will flush that aroma right out with the CO2. I wait until primary is waaaaay done, try to tease out every gravity point that I can...then I wait another week. Then I rack to secondary and dry hop. That should help preserve some of that aroma for you.
I disagree that the CO2 knocks it out. Firestone dry hops during primary and secondary. I find that my hop aroma was killed by my chilling techniques and not submersing the hops in the fermentor. I use a plate chiller which does work great but unless I chill the wort quickly as a whole I lose the aroma and leaving the dry hops on top doesn't do me any good. Adding a marble to the bag sinks it and has improved the aroma alot.

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