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Old 06-18-2013, 04:58 PM   #71
WroxBrew
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Aug 2012
West Roxbury, MA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhchrist View Post
Thanks for the info. If I go that route, it will be with a upright freezer using my Kickstarter Fermostat (LINK) temperature controller once it arrives. That also means buying an upright freezer. The more I think about it, I may just get a larger chest freezer and skip the conical, especially considering I can make a bigger starter and reserve yeast from that for future batches.

Glad to hear your Citra is improving. Such a nice treat when that happens.
Thanks. I just got a fridge for my kegs for free, but is the wrong type for the fermenter. I hope to get a setup for the fermenter, but I have other basement issues I have to deal with to make it a good spot for fermenting and my kitchen is too small for a second Fridge.
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Fermenting: Bitter American Clone, Simcoe IPA
Conditioning:
On Tap/ bottle finished: Cream Ale, Cascade IIPA Dark Horse Porter, Beantown Brown Ale, Beantown Brown ale(w/vanilla bean)

 
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Old 06-18-2013, 05:08 PM   #72
WroxBrew
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Aug 2012
West Roxbury, MA
Posts: 103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobotWerewolfLabs View Post
Oops! Sorry about 4. Thanks for the detailed response. Fur completeness:

4. Is tangential inlet for a whirlpool worthwhile, or just more cleanup?
I don't find that it adds anything to clean-up. The whirlpool actually works quite well if you have the patience. It adds time, which as we all know can be in short supply. I have run low on time on a few batches and wirlpooling is where I tend to make it up when things are behind schedule. When I do take the time to do it correctly, I do notice quite a bit more gunk being left behind in the BK. I was actually a bit surprised as I figured the heating element would limit it's effectiveness. As for how much it effects the finally product, I really couldn't say as I haven't done any real evaluation. I tend to ferment on the long side (3-4 weeks) so I get a good amount of settling of whatever makes it into the fermenter.
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Fermenting: Bitter American Clone, Simcoe IPA
Conditioning:
On Tap/ bottle finished: Cream Ale, Cascade IIPA Dark Horse Porter, Beantown Brown Ale, Beantown Brown ale(w/vanilla bean)

 
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Old 06-18-2013, 10:45 PM   #73
jawsbc
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Nov 2009
Portland
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Originally Posted by stonebrewer View Post
Third, I tried to use the sparge arm during recirculation
I recommend not using the sparge arm for recirculation - you risk hot side aeration. Using a 90 deg. hose barb and a short piece of hose to lay the wort gently on on top of the grain bed will minimize HSA. The husks and particles that initially sneak out will then be laid on top of the grain bed as well, and improve the grain bed overall for better sparging, etc. The sparge arm is best used for water/sparging.

Cheers!
John/Stout Tanks and Kettles

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Old 06-18-2013, 11:55 PM   #74
stonebrewer
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Mar 2012
rockville, md
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Wrox & jawsbc: Thanks for the replies. I only used the the sparge arm once during recirculation as a test. Have not been using it since and have gone back to the tried and true short piece of silicon hose...just sharing my experiences with you/others. I also tried stuffing the thermowell with CPU grease to no avail. I have been using a Thermopen to check temps as the wort comes out of the silicon tube mentioned above. Really want to add something to the tun inlet to monitor temps so I a) don't have to take the lid off and b) can check constantly versus periodically. May end up automating this at some point, but want to stay manual for now. Brewer's Hardware has some parts that might work, so if I try them I will post back here the results.

Overall I am pleased as punch with the MLT. The welds and construction are top notch and I love the triclamp fittings. The bottom drain is AWESOME as I get every last drop of wort out of the tun and into the boil. I do not recirculate too rapidly, so not sure why I am getting grain under the false bottom...may be just unrealistic to think it will catch every little piece. I pump through a SS hop spider screen into the kettle and usually get a few teaspoons of grain in the screen. This method works well.

As for HSA, the jury is still out on that for me. I know it is widely debated and I am not going to start that up here or in any thread. I just don't know if it is real or not. Other comments about heat loss make sense though.

 
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:00 AM   #75
orangehero
 
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Apr 2010
Northeast
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You may also end up oxidizing proteins that can clog up the grain bed.

 
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Old 06-19-2013, 05:34 PM   #76
RobotWerewolfLabs
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Nov 2010
Portland, Oregon
Posts: 30

Stonebrewer, you might also look at your grain mill. Perhaps tweaking your crush could help with grain getting through?

 
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Old 06-20-2013, 07:42 PM   #77
RobotWerewolfLabs
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Nov 2010
Portland, Oregon
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Edit: oops, moving this to a new thread instead. Great system you have there!

 
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