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Old 02-20-2013, 09:41 PM   #31
Bensiff
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Mar 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WroxBrew View Post
I hear you on this and I am contemplating switching to the Brewers Hardware thing, but I have to take a closer look at it. One thing for sure, is that you do need to remove the thread to triclamp fitting to clean it. There is a ton of gunk that builds up in there in the boil kettle that can not be rinsed away. I use a friction pipe wrench to unscrew it from the element to clean after each brew which is easy enough, but I'm not so sure with the Brewers Hardware piece as it looks like one piece, and the ground wire would be an issue with dissasembly. Hopefully its actually a 2 piece assembly. I don't want to deal with disconnecting the electrical connections just to clean it. That would be a non starter to me.
Good to know...ah the joys of getting to know a new system.

As far as the site glass...I'm not a huge fan of polycarbonite because of its heat sensitivities. I might go have a glass artist do that for me at some point.

 
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:58 PM   #32
WroxBrew
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Aug 2012
West Roxbury, MA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bensiff View Post
Good to know...ah the joys of getting to know a new system.

As far as the site glass...I'm not a huge fan of polycarbonite because of its heat sensitivities. I might go have a glass artist do that for me at some point.
Yup, but I'm makeing great beer so far and it should only get better. I thought the jump to something like this would set me back in my brewing more then it actually has, but there's still plenty to learn.

The issue with glass, is its easy to break. I could see tightening it just a little to much, and ..oops. I also remember reading in some post of someone accidently wacking their glass one and having it break. If that happened in mid brew that would be quite a freakin mess. As I said earlier I'm having a love/hate relationship with them at the moment.

 
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Old 02-20-2013, 10:51 PM   #33
hammis
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Mar 2010
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Great build! For sight glasses i would recommend borosilicate glass tube from Mcmaster Carr.

 
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Old 03-05-2013, 04:40 PM   #34
WroxBrew
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Aug 2012
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Quote:
I saw in your build thread you mention that one thing you would change if you could was you'd raise the level of the element port. Can I ask what level you have it at now and where you'd move it to? It's hard to tell from the picture, but where do you have the thermowell in relation to the element?
Here's a better picture of what I was trying to describe. You will notice my enclosure is lower then the bottom of the tank. The bottom of the port is about an inch above the tank bottom. You can talk to John at Stout for an exact measurement. I would have just moved it up another inch to give some more space for an enclosure. I do not think it would really effect things too much. The thermowell is about a 1/3 of the way up the tank. You could easily move that up an inch also if you wanted to keep the same distance between the two.
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Old 03-05-2013, 04:56 PM   #35
WroxBrew
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Now that I look at my own picture, it is probably less then an inch from the bottom of the tank.
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Fermenting: Bitter American Clone, Simcoe IPA
Conditioning:
On Tap/ bottle finished: Cream Ale, Cascade IIPA Dark Horse Porter, Beantown Brown Ale, Beantown Brown ale(w/vanilla bean)

 
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:46 PM   #36
uberg33k
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Nov 2011
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Many thanks, sir. This will help greatly with design.

 
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:54 PM   #37
bhchrist
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Wrox,

I was about to Email John, as I am getting close to pulling the trigger on my tanks (may add to 14.5 Conical as well) when I thought I would ask you first. Are all of the Tri Clover ports, with the exception of the element port, on the tanks 3/4"? I am looking to pair components from John and from Darrin at Brewer's Hardware and see Stout lists 3/4" valves for the tanks. This makes a big difference when buying sanitary "Tees" for temperature probes and the like.

 
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Old 03-07-2013, 05:06 PM   #38
WroxBrew
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I think everything is 3/4" except possibly the whirlpool port on the boil kettle. I'm working late tonite, so I wont be able to give you a definitive answer on that one till tomorrow. The valves that come with the stout tanks are not full port. They have a 5/8" inside diameter, so there is some restriction coming off the 3/4" ports. The herms coil in the HLT, if your going that route, I think is 1/2".
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Fermenting: Bitter American Clone, Simcoe IPA
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On Tap/ bottle finished: Cream Ale, Cascade IIPA Dark Horse Porter, Beantown Brown Ale, Beantown Brown ale(w/vanilla bean)

 
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Old 03-07-2013, 06:56 PM   #39
bhchrist
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Thanks. I just sent John a list of questions. I heard that the HERMS connection was smaller. From your previous posts it doesn't sound like you have had an issue with mash recirculation so I am guessing it is not a major issue. By the way, I see you are conditioning and tapping the Citra IPA. Is it the Kern River clone from CYBI? I brewed it 10 days ago and am starting the first dry hopping tonight.

 
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:29 PM   #40
bhchrist
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I got a very quick turn around from John to my questions. He said that the TCs that they use are all 1.5" and that most of the pipe size is 1" (the tangential returns are 3/4" pipes). Should make life much easier with the accessories.

 
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