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Old 02-19-2013, 04:27 PM   #21
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After a little thought, if I could do it again, there are only 2 things i would change to my stout kettle order.
1. I would have them raise the heater inlet on the HLT about an inch. It is very low in the kettle, and would give you a little more leeway in the element encloser construction. I had to raise my hlt. Currently using a wok base, which is a litle tipsy, but I plan to replace it with something more sturdy.

2. I would like to have a second water fill inlet on the left side of the mash tun. This way the right one would have a Two way valve for mash recirculation and sparging from the HLT and the left would be for mash in and mash out water from my boil kettle. At the moment I have to switch back and forth. Not a huge issue, but the less connecting and disconnecting of hoses makes life easier and lessens the chance for a screw up.


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Old 02-19-2013, 04:31 PM   #22
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Second batch. First IPA. Pretty darn good beer I say!


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Old 02-19-2013, 05:35 PM   #23
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Thanks for the pics...I'm not really seeing your clearance issue with your heating element (is it the 90 degree fitting I see in the pic, I have never seen one done up like that?).

Have you considered adding in a 3 way valve to deal with your issue on #2?
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Old 02-19-2013, 05:40 PM   #24
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Wrox,

Thanks for the feedback. The sight tube observations and the general circulation/element placement comments will really help in planning my system.

Any issues so far with rust on your elements bases? Two things I am strongly considering is requesting a 2" ferrule for the heater elements for easier install with a wider selection of elements and having an additional ferrule to use a Magnesium Anode in the tanks. I have clean, but hard well water and it seems that profile causes more rusting issues.
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Old 02-19-2013, 06:11 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bensiff View Post
Thanks for the pics...I'm not really seeing your clearance issue with your heating element (is it the 90 degree fitting I see in the pic, I have never seen one done up like that?).

Have you considered adding in a 3 way valve to deal with your issue on #2?
Yeah, it's not a great picture, suffice to say, that my encloser is lower then the bottom of the tank. It's a 4 inch round water tight box. I had to raise the tank up so the encloser didn't bottom out. Also, I'm up against a wall, so i couldnt just hang the encloser off the back edge of the platform.

2. Yeah, a 3 way valve will do the trick, and I'd also like to put a temp probe on the recirculation output. I'm in the planning stage of what i'm going to do here. The second inlet would just be cleaner overall. It's not a big thing, but would be a nice addition. I'm going to have quite the octopus at that inlet.
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Old 02-19-2013, 06:16 PM   #26
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Wrox,

Thanks for the feedback. The sight tube observations and the general circulation/element placement comments will really help in planning my system.

Any issues so far with rust on your elements bases? Two things I am strongly considering is requesting a 2" ferrule for the heater elements for easier install with a wider selection of elements and having an additional ferrule to use a Magnesium Anode in the tanks. I have clean, but hard well water and it seems that profile causes more rusting issues.
All good ideas. I'm getting a little rust on the base in the HLT, but not on the boil kettle. I have to clean it before each session.
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Old 02-20-2013, 07:28 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by WroxBrew View Post
Yeah, it's not a great picture, suffice to say, that my encloser is lower then the bottom of the tank. It's a 4 inch round water tight box. I had to raise the tank up so the encloser didn't bottom out. Also, I'm up against a wall, so i couldnt just hang the encloser off the back edge of the platform.
What about that Brewer's Hardware overpriced connection you showed me? Probably what I will end up with because I really don't want some chintzy jockey box stuck to nice polished SS.
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:37 PM   #28
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Bensiff,

The Brewer's Hardware Element Adapter is the route I am going as well. I will use the 2" if I can have John at Stout install a 2" Tri-Clover Ferrule for the Element port on a special order. Opens up the options for wavy ULWD elements. And it is purdy.
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:02 PM   #29
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That's no good that your site glass is leaking. Are the seals broken or not sitting correctly? Have you asked John about it yet?
No, it did not leak at first, but as I was boiling my first batch the lower section started to leak. I kept trying to tighten it up, but it got to the point where I could not make it any tighter. After inspection, the end of the plastic tubing actually shrunk in diameter.

Yes, John does know, and I'm waiting on a replacement tube. I flipped the tube so the smaller diameter was at the top, but now after 2 more batches, the other side has shrunk too.I've had no problems with the one in the HLT, so I can only presume this one couldn't handle boiling temp. It was not an overly aggressive boil. I'll keep you all informed on if it gets resolved.
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:19 PM   #30
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What about that Brewer's Hardware overpriced connection you showed me? Probably what I will end up with because I really don't want some chintzy jockey box stuck to nice polished SS.
I hear you on this and I am contemplating switching to the Brewers Hardware thing, but I have to take a closer look at it. One thing for sure, is that you do need to remove the thread to triclamp fitting to clean it. There is a ton of gunk that builds up in there in the boil kettle that can not be rinsed away. I use a friction pipe wrench to unscrew it from the element to clean after each brew which is easy enough, but I'm not so sure with the Brewers Hardware piece as it looks like one piece, and the ground wire would be an issue with dissasembly. Hopefully its actually a 2 piece assembly. I don't want to deal with disconnecting the electrical connections just to clean it. That would be a non starter to me.


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