Coldbreak Brewing Giveaway - Winners Drawn!

Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing > Batch Sparging and mashing
Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 11-14-2012, 06:16 PM   #41
biestie
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Marion, IA
Posts: 320
Liked 23 Times on 18 Posts
Likes Given: 4

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yooper

Switch it over to a profile that uses a mash out, set up for fly sparging. Then it'll have the "mashout" step in there.

But of course, don't fly sparge, just batch sparge with the volume of mash out water + fly sparge water.

I hope that makes sense!
Why not just use the batch sparge option in beersmith?


biestie is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2012, 11:01 PM   #42
MrMista
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 87
Likes Given: 1

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yooper View Post
Yep, that's it exactly!

How I figure the sparge water temp is sort of a work-around in Beersmith. If I'm batch sparging, I look at the "mash out" volume and temp. And I use that for my first sparge addition (it'll say something like "mashout with 9.5 quarts of water at 202 degrees). I stir well, and it almost always makes my grainbed 168. Then add the rest of the sparge water at 168-170 to keep the grainbed there. I hope that makes sense.

Since I have a larger MLT now, I just do one round of batch sparging. On Monday's brew, I got 75% efficiency- which is exactly the same I get when I fly sparge.
When you are doing the single sparge do you still use the mahout temperature that BeerSmith states for all of your sparge water, or do you not do the full 202 degrees for example?


MrMista is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2012, 11:24 PM   #43
bmock79
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: dayton, ohio
Posts: 259
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrMista View Post
That makes sense to me. So would it be OK to do a single sparge with all the water at 185? Otherwise I guess you would do the first sparge at 185 to raise the grainbed and the second sparge at 170. I only do double sparges if I have a large grainbill and can't fit all the water into the first sparge.
Thats what i do!
bmock79 is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2012, 11:25 PM   #44
bmock79
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: dayton, ohio
Posts: 259
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrMista View Post
When you are doing the single sparge do you still use the mahout temperature that BeerSmith states for all of your sparge water, or do you not do the full 202 degrees for example?
In my short brewing experience I have been adding the sparge water around 180ish-190ish and my beer has been good.
bmock79 is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2012, 06:28 PM   #45
keanex
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 23
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonex View Post
168 is what I shoot for. You don't want to sparge higher than 170f.
Why don't you want to sparge over 170F? I thought the goal of sparging was to raise the grain to over 170 to stop conversion and loosen up the sugars.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Denny View Post
This seems to be getting WAAAYYYY too complicated. Here's what I do....mash with about a 1.5-1.75 qt./lb. ratio. At the end of the mash, drain into your kettle and measure how much wort you have. Subtract that from the boil volume you want. Heat that much water to 185-190F. Stir it well into the mash, vorlauf a bit and run it off into the kettle. That's all there is to it. Beersmith is a great tool, but it's NOT instructions about how to brew. Use it for what it is and don't let it boss you around! For more info on batch sparging, see www.dennybrew.com. I've done it for 426 batches and nearly 15 years. I wouldn't consider any other technique for sparging. I average 85% efficiency.
He says to run off as fast as possible, why is that? I thought that is a no-no?
keanex is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2012, 06:32 PM   #46
keanex
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 23
Default

Double post.
keanex is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2012, 07:07 PM   #47
Denny
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Eugene OR
Posts: 4,380
Liked 467 Times on 348 Posts
Likes Given: 583

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by keanex View Post
Why don't you want to sparge over 170F? I thought the goal of sparging was to raise the grain to over 170 to stop conversion and loosen up the sugars.
The purpose of sparging it to remove, either through rinsing or draining, and sugars left in the mash. A mashout is to stop enzyme action, but is seldom necessary or helpful at the homebrew level. But sparging wiht water in the 190F range can help ensure full conversion and might increase your efficiency a bit.



Quote:
Originally Posted by keanex View Post
He says to run off as fast as possible, why is that? I thought that is a no-no?
I think there may be a misconception here. In batch sparging, a fast runoff is an advantage but not a necessity. You can runoff as fast as your system will allow. In batch sparging, unlike fly sparging, a slow runoff will not increase your efficiency. Fly sparging is a rinsing process, not draining, and therefor a slower sparge is advantageous.
__________________
Life begins at 60....1.060, that is!

www.dennybrew.com

http://www.experimentalbrew.com - the website for the book "Experimental Homebrewing"...coming Nov. 2014
Denny is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2012, 09:29 PM   #48
MNDan
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Minnetonka, MN
Posts: 348
Liked 15 Times on 11 Posts
Likes Given: 8

Default

The common knowledge of sparging is that at temps above 168F you will start to extract tannins from the grain.
MNDan is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2012, 09:45 PM   #49
Denny
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Eugene OR
Posts: 4,380
Liked 467 Times on 348 Posts
Likes Given: 583

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MNDan View Post
The common knowledge of sparging is that at temps above 168F you will start to extract tannins from the grain.
Common unfortunately does not necessarily equate to correct. pH is the factor to worry about. If it was temp alone, you couldn't do a decoction mash, where you boil the grain. Batch sparging pretty much eliminates the pH rise you get in fly sparging, which is the real culprit behind tannin extraction.
__________________
Life begins at 60....1.060, that is!

www.dennybrew.com

http://www.experimentalbrew.com - the website for the book "Experimental Homebrewing"...coming Nov. 2014
Denny is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2012, 11:52 PM   #50
dzlater
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,069
Liked 32 Times on 30 Posts
Likes Given: 140

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Denny View Post
Not really. You can use boiling sparge water if you want to if your pH is in the right range.
Hey Denny
If I have no way to check pH should I keep the sparge water temp at the lower end, or can I crank it up to maybe 180 - 190 and not worry about it ?


dzlater is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Batch and fly sparging ImperialStout All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing 1 09-06-2011 08:32 PM
RIMS mashing and sparging - Bed never settles shortyjacobs All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing 3 08-24-2011 07:55 PM
Questions on Mashing and batch sparging (first time) Daver77 All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing 10 04-23-2011 10:57 PM
Help with next AG batch: Mash out and Batch Sparging sjbeerman All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing 8 02-03-2011 07:19 PM
Fly Sparging Vs. Batch Sparging New2HomeBrew All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing 28 08-08-2007 05:25 PM


Forum Jump

Newest Threads

LATEST SPONSOR DEALS