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Old 05-14-2013, 12:39 AM   #961
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Nice. I just got a 6X14 300 in the mail and I think my next beer is actually gonna be a zombie dust 6 gallon batch.


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Old 05-23-2013, 05:40 PM   #962
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Hi all, sorry for the lack of activity but my recent builds have put a serious hamper on actually brewing! That's all going to change in the next week or so. Chad from Arbor is building me a couple of 12"diameter x 22" long monsters for my boil kettles and even a small 6" x 10" corner filter for my waster sink to catch any wayward chunks from my CIP system. Will post pics and update soon!


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Old 05-26-2013, 02:26 PM   #963
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Default 300 or 400?

So I have been keeping up with this thread close to when it started. I know this question has been asked by several people and I recall the concensus being that the 300 mesh is what most people recommended. However, I have heard that it clogs but I think this is mainly folks who recirc through the spider while chilling. I am about to buy one but I am on the fence about which mesh opening to get due to the clogging potential.

I brew mainly with leaf hops but I do use pellets as well. I may actually buy more pellets after I get this spider because they are easier to store. I have a plate chiller and a pump. I was planning on one passing it through the chiller into a carboy but I may recirc because I have a pump (I haven't brewed with this new equipment yet so I am not sure). My main concern is keeping junk out of my plate chiller. I even have a hop rocket which I also plan to put in-line to also help act as a filter.

So aside from the hop particles there is the hot break material which I assume people are trying to clean up by recirc'ing with the pump (minus the chiller) back through this hop spider.

So considering all of this, I am about to order one and I need to decide which mesh size to use. So any input on the mesh size you recommend would be greatly appreciated. But please include your method of chilling your wort and if you try and get the hot break material or not. Thanks!
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Old 05-26-2013, 06:03 PM   #964
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Finally got around to brewing this weekend and I used the filter as a post-chilling filter. In other words, I free dropped the pellets into the boil, chilled, and then recirculated through the filter to catch all the gunk. Worked great. From a mental standpoint, I like this better than using the filter as designed (i.e., filter in the boil, hops thrown into the filter) because I think I will always worry about getting the right utilization with the temperature differential inside the filter, lack of boiling action, and potential for clogging and not actually getting wort circulation through the filter mesh during the boil.
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Old 05-26-2013, 06:26 PM   #965
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I wonder if a bottle dry hopper can be made? Under $15.
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Old 05-26-2013, 06:30 PM   #966
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I struggled to use mine as a break filter. On the hot break it got nothing(300 mesh). Big chunks were evident as boil started, but a recirc collected next to nothing over 20 minutes.

Cold break recirc clogged the filter instantly. I had 1.5oz in there so perhaps the gunk combined with the hops to clog? I may give this another go with no hops, but it was recirculating fine until a certain temperature was reached and then bam, all the sudden it clogged really fast.
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Old 05-26-2013, 10:17 PM   #967
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I'm using my dry hop designed for BB's right now. Just dry hopped an all Columbus IPA w/ leaf hops. Works like a charm!
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Old 05-28-2013, 05:59 PM   #968
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pfgonzo View Post
I think I will always worry about getting the right utilization with the temperature differential inside the filter, lack of boiling action, and potential for clogging and not actually getting wort circulation through the filter mesh during the boil.
1) i doubt there is a noticeable difference between 208 and 212*F
2) i'm not convinced that lack of boiling action is important - but maybe it is. i ladle hot wort into my filter a few times during the boil, that provides all the circulation i need.
3) clogging is indeed a concern and one that needs to be managed. it's going to be a problem with any mesh/screen/filter that you use to control hops. hop bags have the same issue, IMO. the fundamental issue is that the size of mesh that is needed to retain hop particle is so small that the mesh clogs - so the only way to prevent it from clogging would be to make it bigger... which would let the hop particle through.
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:09 PM   #969
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I've somewhat moved away from using the screen myself.

I "thought" I wasn't losing some hop usage, until one day I brewed and said piss on cleaning it and using it, so I just tossed it all in the kettle, and then drained the kettle and left most of the crap in the bottom.

I noticed the loss of hop flavor and aroma shortly there after. I still get plenty clear beer using whirlfloc and chilling it down and not being stingy when I keg...

If I'm brewing with all leaf, I will however drop the filter in, around 5 minutes, and chill with it in there, and push it up against my kettles valve to keep any large leaf particulate getting in and floating around.
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:20 PM   #970
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I am pretty sure that the clogging issue is all about surface area. I went with a smaller diameter filter on the first round and it clogged badly. I jumped up to the 6" diameter spider and had a lot fewer issues. I now use both and have extremely clear beer, do not clog my silly funnel screen anymore, wasting time cleaning it, and makes my brew day and end product better. I have one of the hoppiest beers I have ever tasted and I used these filters, so I am pretty darn certain it is not affecting hop utilization, isomeration, etc. In the brewing world, there is no one method that works for everyone. Find what works for you and improve on it. These filters have improved my beer and I will keep using them until I find something better!! Cheers all!!


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