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Old 09-17-2013, 04:09 PM   #1041
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Anybody using this hop strainer with a Blichman 10 gallon pot? Does the 6x14 standard strainer fit well?
After brewing a Red IPA with whole leaf hops and having my pick up tube clog repeatedly as I drained the wort I am desperate for a better way to keep the hops from clogging the drain!
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Old 09-17-2013, 04:26 PM   #1042
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Travestian View Post
I've actually done that before. I didn't collect a whole lot of hot break material but you will definitely get the hops out. YMMV.
i've also used a filter to catch grain debris as i run the mash out of the MLT into the BK. even though i've been recirc'ing for an hour i still get a tablespoon or two of fine grain particles in my runoff.
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Old 09-17-2013, 04:30 PM   #1043
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishin-Jay View Post
Anybody using this hop strainer with a Blichman 10 gallon pot? Does the 6x14 standard strainer fit well?
After brewing a Red IPA with whole leaf hops and having my pick up tube clog repeatedly as I drained the wort I am desperate for a better way to keep the hops from clogging the drain!
i don't know if you'll be able to fit sufficient whole leaf hops in one of these to make an IPA. with my IPA recipes, i would need a bigger sized filter, or a second one.
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What hops should I grow? Looking for cheap honey?
- Drinking: BPA made with ingredients from NHC, 2 blends of a rye sour: ECY20 + ECY34, local sour cherry kriek #2, brett'ed Belgian blond on raspberries
- Aging: Imperial Chocolate Milk Stout (half on coconut), sour blond on second-use cherries, English Barleywine (half on brett), 3726 saison w/ brett x2 (dregs mix & Lochristi), GNO 3724 saison w/ brett mix, sour cherry mead, acerglyn, and a few other sours...

 
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Old 09-17-2013, 05:53 PM   #1044
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetcell View Post
i don't know if you'll be able to fit sufficient whole leaf hops in one of these to make an IPA. with my IPA recipes, i would need a bigger sized filter, or a second one.
+1; I find these filters work great for pellet hops, but remember surface area is critical so larger diameter screens are much better. As far as leaf hops go, I throw them in the boil and let the bazooka keep them out of the carboy. that said, if you add enough leaf, you will clog a bazooka. Recommend you use a mix of pellet and leaf, put the pellet in a hop basket like this one, or go all pellet with one of these.

 
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Old 09-17-2013, 07:47 PM   #1045
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stonebrewer View Post
+1; I find these filters work great for pellet hops, but remember surface area is critical so larger diameter screens are much better. As far as leaf hops go, I throw them in the boil and let the bazooka keep them out of the carboy. that said, if you add enough leaf, you will clog a bazooka. Recommend you use a mix of pellet and leaf, put the pellet in a hop basket like this one, or go all pellet with one of these.
Good advice, thanks!
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Old 09-26-2013, 08:40 PM   #1046
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diS View Post
I made strainer 11" in diameter (sankey keg as BK, aprox. 15" wide ) and I have boil over problems with it.
Strainer is big enough to enable boil in it, but vigorous boil takes place between strainer and keg wall, and this is where the problem comes:
space between basket and keg is pretty limited so boil can easily pour over keg side, especially at the beginning and with large pre-boil volume.

I will have to reduce diameter, perhaps to 4-6" just to increase boil surface.
I'm thinking about going this route. I see here that having an 11" strainer in a keggle is problematic. i couldn't have one that big anyway as the opening in the top is only a bit over 10".

I note that other folks in this thread have discussed trying an 8" filter in a keggle, but i can't find anyone who actually posted results. Anyone try this? Problems/success/etc.? Do folks think that there will sufficiently vigorous boil to drive off DMS?

Also, I know some folks have multiple versions of this thing. For anyone who's used both something in the 8" range and a more typical 6" (in any kettle style), was there a noticeable difference in things like clogging and other performance?

I boil in a keggle made from a pony keg. So it's about 15" wide with a 10" opening, and is around 10" deep. I was thinking of going with a 300-um filter that was 8" diameter by about 8 or 9" deep. This would give me a gap in the opening about 1" on either side, and about 3-4" between the filter and the walls of the keggle, and 1-2" above the bottom.

Based on everyone's experiences with these units, does that seem like a workable design?
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Old 09-26-2013, 11:20 PM   #1047
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I am using Two 6" x 14" 300 mesh filters for my "House" Pilsner which uses 1 pound of Saaz pellets per 15 gallons (18 gallons at beginning of boil). 1 filter works but ends up quite stopped up with the wort level above the boil volume line when recircing while sanitizing the plate chiller with the recirc discharge going into the strainer. 2 keeps things a bit more where I like them. No discernible taste difference yet - will update again in 2 months when the product of 2 filters has had full lagering and carbonating time.

 
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Old 10-03-2013, 06:48 PM   #1048
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So just checking in again with some keggle brewers. From experience, will an 8" diameter filter both (a) provide sufficient boiling/circulation within the filter and (b) not cause any major problems in the portions of the keggle outside the filter? I would probably plan on the 300 micron.

Thanks!
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Old 10-03-2013, 07:00 PM   #1049
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Question for those who are using this device or something similar:

I've heard that you should not try to "squeeze" your hop gunk to extract any wort that's been soaked up by the hops, and instead you should just consider that to be lost wort. I have the tall, cylindrical version of this device, and at the end of my boil, immediately after flameout, the first thing I do is lift the hop screen out of the kettle and hold it there for a minute for the wort in the hop gunk to drain out, into the boil kettle. I'll sometimes even give it a little shake to get even more wort out of the hop gunk contained in the hop screen.

Is this a bad practice? What am I risking by doing this? Should I instead just leave the screen in the kettle all through the chilling, and even while racking it out of the kettle into a fermenter?

 
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Old 10-03-2013, 09:05 PM   #1050
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kombat View Post
Question for those who are using this device or something similar:

I've heard that you should not try to "squeeze" your hop gunk to extract any wort that's been soaked up by the hops, and instead you should just consider that to be lost wort. I have the tall, cylindrical version of this device, and at the end of my boil, immediately after flameout, the first thing I do is lift the hop screen out of the kettle and hold it there for a minute for the wort in the hop gunk to drain out, into the boil kettle. I'll sometimes even give it a little shake to get even more wort out of the hop gunk contained in the hop screen.

Is this a bad practice? What am I risking by doing this? Should I instead just leave the screen in the kettle all through the chilling, and even while racking it out of the kettle into a fermenter?
I do the same thing with no issues. I will however put any last few minute hops directly into the boil.

 
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