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Old 09-02-2012, 06:34 PM   #11
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Here's one more shot with the 20 gallon kettle in the picture just for perspective.

The black wire in the foreground is the supply power. I just landed the other end in the panel when I ran out of time and had to leave for the family weekend. Next task is to finish that.


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Old 09-05-2012, 02:26 AM   #12
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I'm having difficulty updating this thread. I normally browse HBT from my phone, but the application crashes every time I try to attach a photo.

I got quite a bit done in the last day. Power is connected and run. This set me back an extra $150. I had purchased a QO260GFI breaker from another brewer who wasn't using it. I've had it laying around for about six months in anticipation of this build. In fact, SWMBO created some grief when she say I bought a breaker that I didn't need (yet). I couldn't resist as the price was so cheap. Now I understand why. It is rated for 240V applications only. It lacks a neutral connection on the load side. The 120V loads in my build would trip the GFCI function immediately. So, I ended up buying a new breaker at retail pricing from Menards. Funny thing too - they charge $119 for the breaker installed in a non-metallic spa panel (out of stock) and $135 for the bare breaker. They only had one bare breaker in stock so I took it.

Accomplished tonight:
  • Breaker installed in panel
  • Feeder cable routed
  • Conduit and box installed
  • Outlet terminated
  • Made up a couple of hoses
  • MLT fittings installed; MLT complete
  • One pump is wired and plumbed - still needs mounting
  • HERMS Coil ready to install - see below

I purchased the 50' 1/2" stainless immersion chiller from Midwest Supplies to use for my HERMS coil. Last year I purchased 50' of stainless tubing and tried to bend my own. I learned some new vocabulary and ended up kinking it like crazy. It was never functional, and I ended up buying a plate chiller. Fast forward to this build. I knew I didn't want to mess around with bending so I bought this guy and cut off the ends. I installed two 90* compression fittings and everything is good to go. It was a little tricky to get the fittings on. The tubing bends out of round into an oval shape during the coiling. I had to use a channellock pliers to squeeze it back into round while sliding on the fitting components.

I'm waiting on my hole-saw to arrive from Amazon. Once that is here I'll be able to finish my BK and HLT.

Fun stuff.


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Old 09-05-2012, 11:25 AM   #13
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Wicked smart move with the 90• fittings. I know the coil pain well....barely salvaged mine once it started to kink or whatever.

I think this was the only point at which Kal' directions could use some improvement. Telling people to "reposition it into a smaller coil" is not so helpful. Anyway, I wil save that rant for another time.

I am at the exact same position with my build. Coil is ready to install as soon as the Greenlee knockout arrives.

I also experienced your pain with the out-of-round coil not wanting to fit into the compression fittings. I ended up using a couple of washers, a crescent wrench, a live center from my wood lathe with a cone shaped tip, and a lot of cursing to get them together. Now my biggest fear is that when I try to tighten the compression fitting, it will just pull itself off of the tube. How do I know it is working and the tube is through the fitting far enough? Maybe I will mark the coil with a marker next to the fitting so I know how much it is sliding, but that doesnt help me stop it from sliding...

Sorry to hijack your thread but it sounds like we are at the same critical spot.
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Old 09-05-2012, 12:34 PM   #14
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Looks awesome Train!
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Old 09-05-2012, 11:03 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewBrewB
Wicked smart move with the 90• fittings. I know the coil pain well....barely salvaged mine once it started to kink or whatever.

I think this was the only point at which Kal' directions could use some improvement. Telling people to "reposition it into a smaller coil" is not so helpful. Anyway, I wil save that rant for another time.

I am at the exact same position with my build. Coil is ready to install as soon as the Greenlee knockout arrives.

I also experienced your pain with the out-of-round coil not wanting to fit into the compression fittings. I ended up using a couple of washers, a crescent wrench, a live center from my wood lathe with a cone shaped tip, and a lot of cursing to get them together. Now my biggest fear is that when I try to tighten the compression fitting, it will just pull itself off of the tube. How do I know it is working and the tube is through the fitting far enough? Maybe I will mark the coil with a marker next to the fitting so I know how much it is sliding, but that doesnt help me stop it from sliding...

Sorry to hijack your thread but it sounds like we are at the same critical spot.
I'm actually using a step bit instead of the punch on my kettles. I've found that the cheap Harbor Freight bits will deform the kettle (I did a test on another scrap stainless chunk) but my good Irwin bit cuts very nice holes.

Regarding the compression fittings,I haven't leak tested yet, but they seemed to fit very nice. I'm not worried, but you've given me something to think about.
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Old 09-14-2012, 11:34 AM   #16
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More progress. HLT is complete. Everything holds water.

During the Packers game I got my temp probes mostly done. Boy, that braid is a big PITA but out sure looks nice when done. if I had to do it all over, I'd buy the completed ones from Kal.

To do:
Finish wiring control panel
Mount & plumb my chiller
Mount pumps
Solder the xlr ends
Build the BK
Brew
Drink
Repeat
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Old 09-15-2012, 03:13 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewBrewB
Wicked smart move with the 90• fittings. I know the coil pain well....barely salvaged mine once it started to kink or whatever.

How do I know it is working and the tube is through the fitting far enough?

Sorry to hijack your thread but it sounds like we are at the same critical spot.
How many of us have made that classic mistake?


As far as the compression fitting goes, I ran a garden hose into the top compression fitting once it was installed to see if I could see an visual leaking with the HLT empty. It turned out to have a small drip so I cranked the fitting on another quarter turn and the leak was fixed. Just one way to test you connection.

The build is looking good. You aren't far from brewing if time is on your side.
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Old 09-16-2012, 05:38 PM   #18
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Yesterday I got some wiring done in the control panel. This part seems to take a long time and is very tedious. I generally spend a couple hours making connections, then test the work that has been completed.

I discovered an interesting problem. The LED display in the panel volt meter is installed upside down. I have it properly connected and installed, but the digits are inverted inside the meter. See the pictures. The came from eBay from a Chinese seller, so I'm not looking forward to waiting another 3-4 weeks for a replacement. I've sent them an email and we'll wait to see what they say.

Please don't pay attention to the messy array of conductors. That will get cleaned up shortly. I was in the middle of making connections and SWMBO called down and informed me that we were leaving for an event.
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Old 09-16-2012, 09:50 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrainSafe
Yesterday I got some wiring done in the control panel. This part seems to take a long time and is very tedious. I generally spend a couple hours making connections, then test the work that has been completed.

I discovered an interesting problem. The LED display in the panel volt meter is installed upside down. I have it properly connected and installed, but the digits are inverted inside the meter. See the pictures. The came from eBay from a Chinese seller, so I'm not looking forward to waiting another 3-4 weeks for a replacement. I've sent them an email and we'll wait to see what they say.

Please don't pay attention to the messy array of conductors. That will get cleaned up shortly. I was in the middle of making connections and SWMBO called down and informed me that we were leaving for an event.
The sticker on the back is upside down on the meter. Just keep the connections the same and flip it around....problem solved.




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Old 09-17-2012, 12:45 AM   #20
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cool build


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