ULWD ripple element mounting? welded option? - Home Brew Forums
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Old 08-26-2012, 12:46 PM   #1
haeffnkr
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Jan 2010
St Peters Mo, MISSOURI
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Hello,
I have been searching and searching and can not find an instance where someone has used a welded 1" coupling or lock nut to the keg/kettle and then mounted a rippled ULWD element.

I assume this is because there is no way to ensure the element is sitting "flat" to the bottom of the kettle so folks just use a weldless option to mount these elements? (1" nut on the inside and a silicon washer)

Bottom line -
I am ready to buy fittings, drill and prep my keg for my welder but not sure the best way to mount this element.

Is there a straight ULWD element that folks use for 5500w and would work with a welded coupler?

What am I missing here?

thanks in advance -
Kevin

 
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Old 08-26-2012, 02:32 PM   #2
Adeering
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Jan 2012
Sherwood, Arkansas
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Check out this thread, its not a 1" coupling but he uses a welding spud which is similar.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/my-...ry-can-341267/

There are some ULWD straight elements, just search on amazon and they pop up easy enough. There are a few people using them for the tri-clamp element adapter (Im planning on doing or a version of my own)
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Old 08-26-2012, 03:05 PM   #3
kosmokramer
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Aug 2011
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if you want to use a riple element you must use a half coupling. A full one wont pass the ripple. all of my coupling will be welded in next week. I can post a pic once done
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Old 08-26-2012, 03:31 PM   #4
haeffnkr
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Jan 2010
St Peters Mo, MISSOURI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adeering View Post
Check out this thread, its not a 1" coupling but he uses a welding spud which is similar.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/my-...ry-can-341267/

There are some ULWD straight elements, just search on amazon and they pop up easy enough. There are a few people using them for the tri-clamp element adapter (Im planning on doing or a version of my own)
After reading through this awesome build link I see what is needed to make this work -

Quote:
I was careful to make sure the element hole was high enough to allow the element to rotate during installation. Prior to soldering, I tightened the spud onto the element to the amount of compression I wanted on the gasket then I put a witness mark on the top of the spud with the element level. That way the element would be indexed when I soldered it. The element is just shy of the bottom of the basket when installed.
So I guess those of you using welded couplings/nuts/spuds are either using straight elements or indexing the coupling ?

If you index the coupling and then need to replace the element down the road, are the elements manufactured the same way and they will line up again and be flat to the bottom?

thanks again Kevin

 
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